PROBLEM SOLVED**

Hi guys,

I took my car at a performance shop to install my new rotors, pads, stainless steel lines as well as bleed the brakes and put new fluid.

They say they are having a lot of issues with the pressure in the pedal and repeated the bleeding pressure a couple of times using different techniques and tools with always fair but not optimal results (pedal feeling not as stiff as before).

The max brake fluid pressure they could get was 10 psi.

Can anyone let me know what tools and pressure you use when bleeding your brakes.

Anything help would be appreciated I'm tracking the car in 2 days so I'm desperate to find a solution.

thanks

what fluid are they using????

ate super blue

Hey Chief, I could not reach my Tech. left a message. I seam to remember it being 2000psi front and 950>1000psi rear but let me confirm.

Your OEM lines were rated for 6000psi and the new SS are rated at 10000psi

Hey Barry,

Well the master cylinder handles that, I was talking more about the brake fluid pressure when flushing the lines. I've read anywhere from 10 psi to 30 psi which is a huge difference. Too litltle pressure will make the pedal sloppy. They are pretty positive that there is no air in the lines (tested numerous times).

thanks

I'v just read 25 to 30 psi from here http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...ml#post2271335

they say if not it won't work properly.

Can anyone confirm this?

thanks

How are they bleeding the brakes? With a brake bleeder, gravity, etc?

Sounds like you've got some air trapped in the system, somewhere. This could easily happen if they let the brake system run dry while they were changing out the lines. Air may well be trapped in the ABS pump...? I know FORDs (heresy, I know), will require dealer tools to cycle the ABS pump if you run it dry.

Got ya. Sounds like a choke somewhere in the system. Hope they resolve it before Wednesday....

They had a power bleeder but did not have the adapter for my car so made it fit but the machine they had could not go more than 10 psi.

I have read a lot about air in the ABS pump as you suggested and it makes sense. Still can anyone who changed their lines chime in? Does the abs pump need to be serviced when changing the lines?

Now I'm scared to drive the car and break the pump if that's the case. Taking it to the dealer tomorrow.

When I bleed brakes on my vehicles I don't go over 10PSI. No need to, really. 10PSI is more than enough to move the old fluid through the brake lines. It may take a minute longer on the passenger rear caliper, but eh.

I would really be concerned about that ABS pump. It may not be air trapped in the unit, but I wouldn't risk driving it like that. I'm sure the dealership can square you away (after you give them some of your green)

thanks for thelp. Yeah when I think about it and all points to the ABS pump or master cylinder. They said they checked for air numerous times in the lines but nothing so that would explain it so we were not looking into the right direction.

best regards

I thought on our cars, we don't have to worry about the ABS pump when bleeding the brakes?

If the adaptor dosen't it, it may not be making a proper seal, and may not be able to go above 10 psi. This has NOTHING to do with if your brakes will work or not. As long as there is no air in the lines you'll be fine.

Hopefully Chief will let us know what the problem was, that way we'll all know.

Hi guys,

Got the new tires installed this morning and in the meantime called every MB dealer, the soonest I could get an appointment was Thursday so a bit late for me.

My family knows a certified MB garage and they accepted to take me in last minute.

So far the first thing they noticed was that the stainless steel lines were not installed correctly. Wether this is the issue or not, it seems very likely.

They will have to fix everything and purge the system once more. I'll know later today if its fixed and keep you posted on the issue.

I'm just pissed right now at the other performance shop. They work on race cars (audis, bmws, etc) so I'm surprised they messed things up. But this has been the second time something happens so I will deal with the new shop from now on if they do a good job.

If the problem persists I'll visit the dealer this Thursday but miss tomorrow track day at Calabogie.

That's crazy. They should have noticed leaking brake fluid, which is HIGHLY corrosive btw.

It's not leaking, something about the lines dangling and varying according to pressure so pretty loose. Under hard braking it could have broke and then I would have lost all my fluid. How great!

I'll see what they come up with.

On the good side, the evosport rotors were installed and they are amazing. The look is sick and the car feels so light its insane. I'd say it's having at least 200-300 pounds off the car. They say to multiply rotating mass saved by 10, so yeah it does feel 400 pounds lighter, definitely as if I had dropped off 2 guys like me or 4 slim girls, but then again I wouldn't drop em off LOL

Just talked to the garage. They reinstalled the stainless lines, they did the brake fluid change follow all the MB specs. No air in the lines, no air in the master cylinder or abs pump. They said the pedal still feels soft. I am going there for a test drive.

Speaking to the initial guys who made the install, they mentionned everything was fine when they installed the front rotors and pads (taken for a test drive) with the evosport shims.

So its either the lines, fluid or rear rotors and pads. Something interesting they mentionned is that the titanium shims in the back did not fit very well, and there is somewhat of a loose of 1/16 inch. X 2 that 1/8 inch. That's huge when talking about brakes.

I told the new garage to remove the shims in the back so I will see if that could be the source of the problem.

I was also mentionned that Evosport 2 piece rotors are floating disks, and the pedal might be less responsive on initial push. Can anyone confirm?

thanks

Floating rotors shouldn't have any effect on pedal feel. Something isn't right. Again check for ANY fluid leaks.

After checking everything, the original installer mentionned the evosport shims in the back had very loose fitting that creating 1/16 in space on each side because no holes were pre drilled (like the ones in the front). I'll see what's the issue with evosport.

Ta da, remove the back shims and its fine now. The braking is amazing. I love the mod so far. Calabogie here I come!

good to see you got things worked out... pls take lots of pics at the track

Took some vids. The car was doing good but last minute because all of the debugging, stock brake fluid had to be put back by the shop (did not have RBF 660 or super blue) so my brakes were fading pretty quick on the track.

Getting power bleeder ASAP

lets see those vids, when u get a chance pls

2.5 tanks of gas and nearly 90+ laps at Mosport (VERY HOT) yesterday. Minimal brake fade (same set up with Super Blue).

Found the sweet spot on the RE-11's to right at 41psi HOT running Nitrogen

Great minds think alike I was running 41psi hot on all corners at Calabogie.

People saying 41 psi is high, well I'd say 41 psi hot was about a cold 32-34 psi in my case and really a very good sweet spot.