I posted this on the tire forum the other day but thought I might get better responses here...


What is the best track tire for the C63?

I have used the Yokohama A048 and the Michelin pilot sport cup. The Yoko lasted 4 track days and several hundred road miles while the cups only lasted one track day and less than 100 road miles. The cups did appear to be faster and maybe that is because of their stiff sidewalls because on paper they are not as soft/sticky as the yoko's. Then again, I could just be getting better at driving.

Anyway, I need to order a new set and am looking for recommendations and experiences.

Thanks in advance.

Thanks in advance.

pm some of does guys they track alot.

DAD C63
hhughes1
NORTH 44 C63

Dunlop Star Spec!

toyo r888

Advan 048
Bridgestone RE-11

I think Advan 048 last longer and nice grip!

Bridgestone RE11
Nitto NT05

Bridgestone RE-11
Bridgestone RE-11
Bridgestone RE-11

Did I mention I liked the RE-11's??


Run them at 41>42 lbs (HOT) all around. That is the real sweet spot on these with the C63

If you have a track only set up I would run either Hoosier R6's or Toyo R888's. I will be on the latter this weekend as will Dad'sC63 so I will share my perspective afterwards.
As a street/track tire I have had Dunlop Star Specs on for 4 events and they are a well balanced choice for wet/dry street/track.

I look forward to your review of the R888's on the C63. I was on the fence about a dedicated track set up again this season but went with a DD/track setup instead.

Have fun...

The average C63 tire load index is 94 (1477lbs) to 95 (1521lbs) per tire.
I noticed the load index on a 265/35/18 Dunlop star spec or a 265/35/18 Bridgestone RE-11 is 93 (1433lbs) per tire. Is there any risk running a tire with a lower load index on a c63?? I really want to get the Bridgestone RE-11 or Star spec as my next setup (235/265) but i am hesitating because of the load index.

You should be running 245/275.

What do you want out of the tire?

1. Track only, BFG R1 that will last 1-2 events, Hoosier DO NOT work well for a heavy car, aka they flat spot WAY too easily. Note, Ecsta 710 would now be in this class
2. Track and occasional street, Kuhmo Victor racer or in 18's Ecsta 700, I used to get about 6-7 track events and about 1K in street mileage
3. All around street + track, Bridgstone Re-11, or 050 PP's NON run flat.
4. General street with occasional track, too many to list, but a few choices are Goodyear GS-D3, Nitto 555's, etc, etc.

By the way, each step down will cost you over a second per lap time, minimum.

Ex Mustang raced in SCCA at Beaverun, R1 best lap time low 1:05, Kuhmo's low 1:06, 050 PP's low 1:08, GS-D3 low 1:09

Remeber its all about choices, or should I say longevity here

Edited to reflect new designs

What does that roughly equate to cold?

That was my other option. Do you think there would be a problem with the load index with the RE-11's? And do you think the re-11's would rub with the 245/275 setup?

That would depend on how HARD you drive my friend

A good starting point would be around 35 psi. Turn around 5-6 laps come on in and check. Hint, if you like the way the car is driving, aka no plow, no fish tailing, feels neutral, STAY OUT THERE. Then check when your session is over.

ALL drivers will like and use a different pressure. There is NO single pressure for all drivers even in the same car. And ESPECIALLY at different tracks

I have always used staggered pressure, meaning more up front and less in back, to help make up for the cars under steering. Also, I have a tendency to drive a little too deep in the corners which can lead to a plowing/understeering car. NOTE, this can be a VERY dangerous style for rookies, and I do not endorse it for ANYONE that does not have numerous track events under their belt.

Thanks for your well written insight. Do I hear someone Jones'n for a good track run???

In a word, YES

After my wife was pregnant with the second one, I made a promise to myself and through out the race suit and shoes. Kept the helmet of course just in case

Anyway, I had a prielli let go at about 120, no damage to me or the C32, but a change of pants was required, ha, ha

Now I have 4 more years to teach my oldest kid go carts

I have managed to stay away for the most part, but I have taught a few friends since then. I even managed to have some fun in the S600 at beaverun.

I just researched and now realize that Bridgestone doesn't make the RE-11 in 275/35/18 yet so if you want to go with the 245/275 set up I would recommend the Nitto NT05, which will not rub. As far as load index is concerned, that will not be an issue either.

I am using my stock rims for track and can not find Hoosiers that fit. The R6 only comes in a 244 front not a 235. Are you running stock rims and are you running 245?

Thanks for the help.

These would be for track use only. I am using my stock rims for the track and could not find any of the mentioned tires in a 235. I have put 265 on the back but am a little hesitant to put 245 on the front.

Thoughts?

Thanks for the input. I appreciate it.

The 245's in both BFG and Kuhmo will work fine, as long as your front rim is an 8.5" width. If it is only an 8", it will not properly support it, and the tire will roll over too much, aka loose traction as the contact patch will be smaller.

I have run them on a smaller than recomended rim section width, but you will not see the tires full potential when doing this.

Also, I only saw both of these tires in a 285 for the rear. I did not research the rim width, or overall dimater so you will need to do some home work here my friend.

When in doubt, call tirerack.com as they are VERY helpful with racing tire advise and fitment

The stock wheels are 8" front and 9" rear. Every tire manufacturer provides a range as well as ideal rim size for each size tires. Most 245/40/18 tires are listed at 8 to 9 inch rims with 8.5 being ideal.

You are 100% correct.

But please bear in mind that we are talking about road racing, and not drag racing here. The forces are VERY different on a tire.

I have ran a 275 on an 8.5" rim for drag racing with GREAT results, and yet this same combo was terriable on a road course. The tires would actually roll over a few inches And then of course rub on the fneders.

When road racing you need to error on the large side, or else they will roll over too much and loose contact patch. Not a good situation for going around a corner at triple digit speeds, IMHO.

Anyway, again you are correct about the rim ranges, but it will not give the best results on a road course if you run the rims too small for the tire width.

Best application is tread width = rim width.

Note, I did use section width, but tread width.

Could you elaborate on section width versus tread width, these are different terms I presume? The 275 R888 I have are 11"s wide and are going on 9.5"wheels which is the ideal size listed on the Toyo website.