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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 03:06 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by SonnyakaPig
Super,

I think he's also making the distinction between drag radial runs and street tire runs.

So, it's 60'/ET/mph (street tires) before vs 60'/ET/mph (street tires) after.

I think what TS was saying was that his overall best "before" time was on DR's. But in this comparison, he's showing his best "before/after" on street tires.
I'm just following the data.

In September, he finished off his NT05 Tires (Street Tires, not DRs).

Early November, he has a set of ContiExtreme Contact 3 Tires and cuts a 1.9 60', 12.29 @ 114.9 MPH with them. (Also Street Tires.)

Mid November, in this thread, his Street Tires (assuming still ContiExtreme) are now worn down but he cuts a 1.9 60', 12.10 @ 117.5 MPH with the exhaust work.

I'm just looking for the raw data to help quantify the gains.

Last edited by superlubricity; Nov 16, 2010 at 03:09 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 03:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by superlubricity
I'm just following the data.

In September, he finished off his NT05 Tires (Street Tires, not DRs).

Early November, he has a set of ContiExtreme Contact 3 Tires and cuts a 1.9 with them. (Also Street Tires.)

Mid November, in this thread, his Street Tires are now worn down but he cuts a 1.9 60' and improves his ET and MPH due to the exhaust work.

I'm just looking for the raw data to help quantify the gains.
I didn't realize the NT05's were street tires. So, yeah, my prior post is a mistake.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 05:11 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by superlubricity
I'm just following the data.

In September, he finished off his NT05 Tires (Street Tires, not DRs).

Early November, he has a set of ContiExtreme Contact 3 Tires and cuts a 1.9 60', 12.29 @ 114.9 MPH with them. (Also Street Tires.)

Mid November, in this thread, his Street Tires (assuming still ContiExtreme) are now worn down but he cuts a 1.9 60', 12.10 @ 117.5 MPH with the exhaust work.

I'm just looking for the raw data to help quantify the gains.
Let me put on my hater blockers on for a minute... Why are hating? What is your Deal? Is it cause your a vendor over charging? I'm just posting information from my results.... I actually am going to the Dyno this weekend...so you will see the results... did you find that post yet?

You are indirectly questioning my results...or in layman's terms you are trying to call me a liar... Like I said... I got my Hater Blockers on!!

And if you read my thread from sept about the tires you'll see I went to the 555... By the way I was running the NT-05's, then the 555's but for a short time due to the fact that they were not able to be balanced. So they were deemed defected...

Bottom line the RAW DATA WILL BE MY DYNO SHEETS... and my @ss dyno.... which feel's great!
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 05:15 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SonnyakaPig
I didn't realize the NT05's were street tires. So, yeah, my prior post is a mistake.


They are as close as drag radials as you can get.. they have a 200 treadwear rating... They were extremely sticky, but real loud....
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 05:41 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by NOSONYXC63
Let me put on my hater blockers on for a minute... Why are hating? What is your Deal? Is it cause your a vendor over charging? I'm just posting information from my results.... I actually am going to the Dyno this weekend...so you will see the results... did you find that post yet?

You are indirectly questioning my results...or in layman's terms you are trying to call me a liar... Like I said... I got my Hater Blockers on!!

And if you read my thread from sept about the tires you'll see I went to the 555... By the way I was running the NT-05's, then the 555's but for a short time due to the fact that they were not able to be balanced. So they were deemed defected...

Bottom line the RAW DATA WILL BE MY DYNO SHEETS... and my @ss dyno.... which feel's great!
Wow, you totally read my post wrong.

Nobody is attacking you or calling you anything. That's certainly not my style.

I'm a data-junkie. I'm asking for the correct before/after data from your experience so I can add it to my knowledge base.

You posted a slower time as your "before" in this thread. I recalled when you posted a faster time as your "before" in another. I was asking for clarity on why. My question is still unanswered.

What was your best 60'/ET/MPH before the new exhaust work and what was your best 60'/ET/MPH after?

Thank you.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 05:44 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by superlubricity
I'm just following the data.

In September, he finished off his NT05 Tires (Street Tires, not DRs).

Early November, he has a set of ContiExtreme Contact 3 Tires and cuts a 1.9 60', 12.29 @ 114.9 MPH with them. (Also Street Tires.)

Mid November, in this thread, his Street Tires (assuming still ContiExtreme) are now worn down but he cuts a 1.9 60', 12.10 @ 117.5 MPH with the exhaust work.

I'm just looking for the raw data to help quantify the gains.
If you consider NT05's street tires then you should consider the Toyo R888's, Advan A048, and Michellin Sport Cups street tires too.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 05:57 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by NOSONYXC63
Bottom line the RAW DATA WILL BE MY DYNO SHEETS... and my @ss dyno.... which feel's great!
You don't need those Blockers so take them off. If you have followed any of Super's info post(s), you will realize that everything he does is cohesive. Post those dynos ASAP as some of us a very curious on how a DP w/X performs.

EDIT-I just noticed that Super is a MOD now. When did that happen?
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 06:05 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by NOSONYXC63
They are as close as drag radials as you can get.. they have a 200 treadwear rating... They were extremely sticky, but real loud....
Thanks, I didn't know that.
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 06:55 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Sincity
You don't need those Blockers so take them off. If you have followed any of Super's info post(s), you will realize that everything he does is cohesive. Post those dynos ASAP as some of us a very curious on how a DP w/X performs.

EDIT-I just noticed that Super is a MOD now. When did that happen?
I am going to the Dyno on Friday... I will post results as stated in the OP...
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 06:57 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by superlubricity
Wow, you totally read my post wrong.

Nobody is attacking you or calling you anything. That's certainly not my style.

I'm a data-junkie. I'm asking for the correct before/after data from your experience so I can add it to my knowledge base.

You posted a slower time as your "before" in this thread. I recalled when you posted a faster time as your "before" in another. I was asking for clarity on why. My question is still unanswered.

What was your best 60'/ET/MPH before the new exhaust work and what was your best 60'/ET/MPH after?

Thank you.
The best comparison I have record of with time slips on street tires is what I originally posted....
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 12:40 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Sincity
What effect would happen if we did something like this and added either 300 or 100 cell primary cats after the bend (where it straightens out)?
300 cell metal core high flow cats will work great as primary cats (100s will most likely throw CEL). Cell count & location both play a factor when it comes to making more power (obviously lower cell cats make more power). However, moving the primaries further back will also gain power by increasing the pre-cat air volume allowing for improved gas velocity & scavenging effects. The only major downside to moving primaries further back is you usually have to get O2 extenders (not a huge deal as long as they are plug & plan and not spliced or etc). This is often done on European vs. US spec versions cars. Many of the Euro AMGs do not have the primary cats, therefore making the secondaries act as both primary & secondary cats combined into one (which are obviously much further down the exhaust system). This is also true on bmws and many other european cars as well (often explaining why euro cars have a bit more power even after factoring out the different power ratings of course). Its much easier to upgrade euro cats and the power gains are the highest in this setup, but you can get pretty close on a US spec car.

The difference in power gains between 300-cell and no cats at all (for example: when used as secondaries on the 55s) was only about 2HP & 6tq (100-200 cells are about half that at 1HP, 3tq). Primaries should be roughly the same if not less when comparing high flows & no cats. These high flow cats have come a long way over the years and you don't really need to go catless to get great power gains. In addition, high flows tend to smoothen & clean up the exhaust note quite a bit, where as open straight pipes can get downright unrefined & borderline obnoxious (a subjective statement I will admit).

hope that helps

Last edited by AMS Performance; Nov 17, 2010 at 12:58 AM.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 09:37 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by NOSONYXC63
I will try to answer all questions...

The guy who made mine is making a jig of it so try to replicate them with out the car. If he is successful he will let me know so he can sell them without needing the car...
Great idea. Not sure how the jig works, and will await your dyno, but could this guy also make them in 2.75 or 3 inch just as easily?
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 10:59 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by AMS Performance
300 cell metal core high flow cats will work great as primary cats (100s will most likely throw CEL). Cell count & location both play a factor when it comes to making more power (obviously lower cell cats make more power). However, moving the primaries further back will also gain power by increasing the pre-cat air volume allowing for improved gas velocity & scavenging effects. The only major downside to moving primaries further back is you usually have to get O2 extenders (not a huge deal as long as they are plug & plan and not spliced or etc). This is often done on European vs. US spec versions cars. Many of the Euro AMGs do not have the primary cats, therefore making the secondaries act as both primary & secondary cats combined into one (which are obviously much further down the exhaust system). This is also true on bmws and many other european cars as well (often explaining why euro cars have a bit more power even after factoring out the different power ratings of course). Its much easier to upgrade euro cats and the power gains are the highest in this setup, but you can get pretty close on a US spec car.

The difference in power gains between 300-cell and no cats at all (for example: when used as secondaries on the 55s) was only about 2HP & 6tq (100-200 cells are about half that at 1HP, 3tq). Primaries should be roughly the same if not less when comparing high flows & no cats. These high flow cats have come a long way over the years and you don't really need to go catless to get great power gains. In addition, high flows tend to smoothen & clean up the exhaust note quite a bit, where as open straight pipes can get downright unrefined & borderline obnoxious (a subjective statement I will admit).

hope that helps
Thanks for the great info. You talked about using O2 extenders. What happens if you buy an off the shelf DP that has the O2 bungs in the stock location and then add cats further down the tract (after the bend)?
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 05:32 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Sincity
Thanks for the great info. You talked about using O2 extenders. What happens if you buy an off the shelf DP that has the O2 bungs in the stock location and then add cats further down the tract (after the bend)?
Not sure of the technical ins-and-outs, but I would think that since the cat uses heat from the engine to burn excess fuel, putting it futher down the system would make it cooler and therefore less effective. If true, the problem would get compounded with a lower cell cat.
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 06:32 PM
  #40  
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Are you guys removing the secondary cats or the primary? Just curious.
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