Tranny not built for track abuse :( and a questions on brakes
Also I think it is time for new brake pads...not sure which way to go. Anyone know what MB charges for the stock pads?
For more aggressive pads more suited for track, I believe EBC sells "Yellow Stuff" for our cars.
The transmission is more difficult. I would try s or s+ and do manual down shifts in the turns that may need it.
Brake pads, I did OEM for about 330$ cant remember for all 4. There might be some other better options that are less dusty like Endless or Hawk it seems like.
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Stock brake pads for the fronts are roughly anywhere from $275 to $350 for parts depending which dealership you buy it from.
Didn't they tested the car on the mojabe desert, then South Africa, Nurburgring, Sweeden and places like that?
I also seen a few videos of members here posting their cars on road courses and no issues, maybe someone can elaborate more...
For more aggressive pads more suited for track, I believe EBC sells "Yellow Stuff" for our cars.
The transmission is more difficult. I would try s or s+ and do manual down shifts in the turns that may need it.
Brake pads, I did OEM for about 330$ cant remember for all 4. There might be some other better options that are less dusty like Endless or Hawk it seems like.
Thanks AMG!! Responded
We were told to short shift while using M in the E63, but the c63's they had there all were P31 and non had a problem, i know the one i drive i used M and i was redlining like crazy temps never went passed 264F.
I believe the tranny "limp mode" is tied to the engine temperature. I have only experienced that problem once at Road Atlanta when the oil temps got above 275 degrees. I never had problems below the 265 mark. Try running without the front grill or a modified front grill. Also remove the front engine cover because it traps heat.
I am working on an additional oil cooler and will advise when and if it works. Keep the engine cooler and I don't think you will have the tranny problems. If you are running in a DE event and are running up on people, upshift and give the engine a break. You can also run the Motul 300 oil and that may help. You should also change the tranny fluid every time you put the car into limp mode because you have cooked the fluid. Also look into the intake manifold gaskets that insulate the intake from the heads. That works both ways. I have run Homestead and Sebring in very high heat many times without a problem.
Last edited by Dads C63; Jul 12, 2011 at 06:00 PM.
Since a CLK and a C share the same transmission, ordering the oil cooler from the dealer and installing them shouldn't be too difficult. I think it's worth a try.
I believe the tranny "limp mode" is tied to the engine temperature. I have only experienced that problem once at Road Atlanta when the oil temps got above 275 degrees. I never had problems below the 265 mark. Try running without the front grill or a modified front grill. Also remove the front engine cover because it traps heat.
I am working on an additional oil cooler and will advise when and if it works. Keep the engine cooler and I don't think you will have the tranny problems. If you are running in a DE event and are running up on people, upshift and give the engine a break. You can also run the Motul 300 oil and that may help. You should also change the tranny fluid every time you put the car into limp mode because you have cooked the fluid. Also look into the intake manifold gaskets that insulate the intake from the heads. That works both ways. I have run Homestead and Sebring in very high heat many times without a problem.
Since a CLK and a C share the same transmission, ordering the oil cooler from the dealer and installing them shouldn't be too difficult. I think it's worth a try.
Hope someone develops a larger tranny cooler as this is the best solution.
The CLK Black Series doesn't have that problem as it has an extra oil cooler, differential cooler, and tranny oil cooler.
on a very hot and humid track day, my engine oil temperature went up to 277 degrees, I berried my foot down to the floor, but I don't feel the power at all the straight, thats engine limp mode, after 20 mins cool down, power back again, another time, I was manual shifting the car up to 5-6 laps on the track, suddenly the tranny went into sports mode by itself, I cannot shift back to manual, I believe thats tranny limp mode, they do depend on how hard you drive, but don't seem to tie with each other.
An upgraded oil cooler is very welcome.
I believe the tranny "limp mode" is tied to the engine temperature. I have only experienced that problem once at Road Atlanta when the oil temps got above 275 degrees. I never had problems below the 265 mark. Try running without the front grill or a modified front grill. Also remove the front engine cover because it traps heat.
I am working on an additional oil cooler and will advise when and if it works. Keep the engine cooler and I don't think you will have the tranny problems. If you are running in a DE event and are running up on people, upshift and give the engine a break. You can also run the Motul 300 oil and that may help. You should also change the tranny fluid every time you put the car into limp mode because you have cooked the fluid. Also look into the intake manifold gaskets that insulate the intake from the heads. That works both ways. I have run Homestead and Sebring in very high heat many times without a problem.
BFNYM156 brings up an interesting point and I remember reading about the tranny limp mode as described before.
So I guess it was engine limp mode and tranny limp mode you were experiencing and we all know this car can't cool down fast enough in stock trim.
This sounds like a good topic for the next live chat on the PL.
Maybe the AMG techs can shed some light on this "defect"






