Removing Wheels on my 2012 C63?

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May 12, 2012 | 11:30 PM
  #1  
I like to keep my brake rotors & inside wheel/hubs etc clean, so thought I might, at some stage, remove the wheels to do some cleaning....I'll probably use the supplied car jack to enable this.
I was just wondering, that with tyre sensors, are there any things I should look out for when taking the wheels off, & then putting them back on.
Anyone had any issues with the standard jack/jacking points?
Cheers, Pickles.
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May 13, 2012 | 01:46 AM
  #2  
I am curious about needing a torque wrench to properly torque the lugs? Not sure if this is required but see them doing this when I get new tires on my other cars.
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May 13, 2012 | 02:00 AM
  #3  
Lugs should always be torqued to spec.
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May 13, 2012 | 03:06 AM
  #4  
Anyone know the specs?
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May 13, 2012 | 03:14 AM
  #5  
96ftlbs
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May 13, 2012 | 04:46 AM
  #6  
Quote: I like to keep my brake rotors & inside wheel/hubs etc clean, so thought I might, at some stage, remove the wheels to do some cleaning....I'll probably use the supplied car jack to enable this.
I was just wondering, that with tyre sensors, are there any things I should look out for when taking the wheels off, & then putting them back on.
Anyone had any issues with the standard jack/jacking points?
Cheers, Pickles.
Hey Pickles, now that is ****! LOL
I watched them take my wheel off yesterday at bob Janes and there was nothing out of the ordinary. Floor jack, bolts off, wheel off. Putting it back on there was no torque wrench, the guy just did it up till he felt it was right.
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May 13, 2012 | 05:20 AM
  #7  
If I was paying somebody to do maintenance on my vehicle (wheel instalation) then I want them to do it by the book (torque values), wheel over torque could result with cracks around the bolt hole or thread damage.
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May 13, 2012 | 05:53 AM
  #8  
Quote: 96ftlbs
Thanks!
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May 13, 2012 | 07:39 AM
  #9  
Should ideally use torque wrench to do the final tightening of the nuts.
Rattle guns can damage studs easily eg strip threads.
They also inevitably overtighten them so much that you might not even be able to loosen them if you had to do an emergency tyre change with the supplied tyre wrench...ask me how I know this!
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May 13, 2012 | 08:41 AM
  #10  
I have a torque wrench set at 130Nm which is recommended torque.
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May 13, 2012 | 01:00 PM
  #11  
The TPMS units are located inside the tires (it's an extension of the valve stem that nests just inside the rim), so no need to worry about that. On my old ('10) C63, the only issue I kind of worried about was bonking the calipers as I moved wheels on & off.
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May 13, 2012 | 02:50 PM
  #12  
You can take the wheel off with no problems always torque the wheel.

As far as the sensors put the wheel back on the corner it came off of or you will have to reset the TPMS for instance left rear has to be put back on the left rear if you put it on the right rear it will still say it is the left rear
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May 13, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #13  
Quote: You can take the wheel off with no problems always torque the wheel.

As far as the sensors put the wheel back on the corner it came off of or you will have to reset the TPMS for instance left rear has to be put back on the left rear if you put it on the right rear it will still say it is the left rear
I'm pretty sure MB TPMS does not have to be reprogrammed if you change the location of the wheels (proximity sensors).
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May 13, 2012 | 07:03 PM
  #14  
Since this car uses lug bolts and not lug nuts on studs get one of these handy tools for removal and remounting your wheels. It makes the job so much easier and user friendly. It screws in like a stud to guide the wheel off and back on again and makes lining up the lug holes a piece of cake. I got mine from Reverse Logic and Fred is a great guy to deal with.

http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...ited/Home.html


Removing Wheels on my 2012 C63?-img_2111_a.jpg  

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May 13, 2012 | 07:37 PM
  #15  
Thank you all for your replies, particularly "Justthebest" as I didn't know where the sensors are, & didn't want to "disturb", or damage them.
So, you've all found the factory jack to be OK?
Cheers, Pickles.
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May 13, 2012 | 10:11 PM
  #16  
Quote: Thank you all for your replies, particularly "Justthebest" as I didn't know where the sensors are, & didn't want to "disturb", or damage them.
So, you've all found the factory jack to be OK?
Cheers, Pickles.
No problem Pickles - and re: the factory jack, I've only had to use it once, and it worked to get the flat off & the spare on. That said, if you're going to be doing relatively frequent wheel swaps, then I would recommend investing in a legitimate floor jack. It will save time & effort, and they don't really cost all that much.
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May 13, 2012 | 11:08 PM
  #17  
If you're in a pinch, how would you get the lugs off? I've found the MB supplied wrench basically useless, as WagsC63 pointed out. I would prefer not to have to carry a breaker bar in the trunk.
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May 14, 2012 | 02:12 AM
  #18  
Quote: Since this car uses lug bolts and not lug nuts on studs get one of these handy tools for removal and remounting your wheels. It makes the job so much easier and user friendly. It screws in like a stud to guide the wheel off and back on again and makes lining up the lug holes a piece of cake. I got mine from Reverse Logic and Fred is a great guy to deal with.

http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...ited/Home.html

I like the look of them.
Did you order the ones shown on the list.."W204 C Class 2008=Present M14X1.5?...ie are they the right ones for the C63
I reckon the S/S items would be worth the extra would they not?
Cheers, Pickles.
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May 14, 2012 | 03:22 AM
  #19  
Don't use the mickey mouse stock jack. Get a floor jack and the proper jack pads. http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...Jack_Pads.html
After you've driven it a few hundred miles check the torque on the lugs.
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May 14, 2012 | 04:00 AM
  #20  
Quote: Don't use the mickey mouse stock jack. Get a floor jack and the proper jack pads. http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...Jack_Pads.html
After you've driven it a few hundred miles check the torque on the lugs.
My dealer in SoCal cracked (and replaced) the side skirts because there was insufficient clearance for the slightly lower P30 suspension on some of their lifts. They were alway embarrassed when I would show up for a service app't with four of Fred's jack pads. I always carry one in the car for a tire changing emergency.
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May 14, 2012 | 04:56 AM
  #21  
Mort...another question.
I've also looked at the jack pads you mentioned, from the same supplier. So these sit on top of my trolley jack & enable me to lift via the factory jack points, because this device slots into the factory jack location? Is that correct? For your C63 did you order part no, "W204Plus"?
Thanks again, Pickles.
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May 14, 2012 | 05:08 AM
  #22  
Quote: Mort...another question.
I've also looked at the jack pads you mentioned, from the same supplier. So these sit on top of my trolley jack & enable me to lift via the factory jack points, because this device slots into the factory jack location? Is that correct? For your C63 did you order part no, "W204Plus"?
Thanks again, Pickles.
Not Mort but the rectangular part of the jack pad snaps into the matching "receptacle" on the underbody of the car and is held there. The circular disc portion of the jack pad is a good fit for most jacks.
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May 14, 2012 | 08:10 AM
  #23  
Quote: Since this car uses lug bolts and not lug nuts on studs get one of these handy tools for removal and remounting your wheels. It makes the job so much easier and user friendly. It screws in like a stud to guide the wheel off and back on again and makes lining up the lug holes a piece of cake. I got mine from Reverse Logic and Fred is a great guy to deal with.

http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...ited/Home.html


Just wondering why you would need this? The wheels are hub centric and sit on the hub and can be rotated on the hub to get the desired lug location
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May 14, 2012 | 08:27 AM
  #24  
I thought that too... being hub centric, it's already the most user friendly way of removing and installing.

Nothing hard about rotating the wheel around until you see all the holes match up. Even for a mere $10, I don't see the point.
Reply 0
May 14, 2012 | 09:18 AM
  #25  
I would suggest getting a hydraulic floor jack - the OEM jack is pretty flimsy. I personally dont trust it as my car has moved while on it, even on a flat surface.
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