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Should I atempt doing brake job? Any DIY guides?

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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 03:00 AM
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2012 C63 2015 C300 sport
Should I atempt doing brake job? Any DIY guides?
My pads are running out so I decided to replace them with porterfields r4s and new front girodisc rotors! Is replacing the rotors and pads on our cars a difficult task and do we need any special tools? Are there any dummy step by step DIY guides? also where can I find the torque specs to tighten the bolts to?

I have done brake pads on Acuras before but the calipers are different, and I have never done rotors before.

I would appreciate any advice, thank you in advance!
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 03:03 AM
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brakes are easy, but messy. go for it. I'm sure you can handle it.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 07:11 AM
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it is easy and straight foreward. I have done it a few weeks ago, also with girodiscs.
You do need an allan key size 10 where you can put some force on to unbolt the callipers.
There are two pins and on M8 bolt that hold the pads. And you need one torx key to loosen the discs. The Giro discs don't have that hole to put the torx screw back in but that's no problem.
If you have any questions, let me know!
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 03:14 PM
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Yep this brake job is a DYI job. No problem.
You'll need jack stands, air compressor and impact wrench to speed up the process, and tools mentioned above.
I would recommend to bleed your brakes on top of changing the pads.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by abcut973
I would recommend to bleed your brakes on top of changing the pads.
+1
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 03:42 PM
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Pads and rotors
If you're just doing pads and rotors, no need to bleed your brakes. You can, but not necessary.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 04:23 PM
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This thread should help re. caliper removal.. I'm sure a search will uncover other useful threads.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ront-rear.html
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 05:11 PM
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found this diy when I did my brakes, it helped me.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 05:37 PM
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anyone know where I can find torque specs for the braking system?

Originally Posted by abcut973
Yep this brake job is a DYI job. No problem.
You'll need jack stands, air compressor and impact wrench to speed up the process, and tools mentioned above.
I would recommend to bleed your brakes on top of changing the pads.
I dont have an impact wrench/air tools but I can use hand tools right?


Originally Posted by douwe22
thank you!
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 05:39 PM
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also, do I need a clamp to squeeze the pistons back in to change my pads? (I remember doing this on another car..)
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 05:40 PM
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natman, yes hand tools will be fine. I actually prefer them. Less chance of stripping something coming out.. And i have had 0 issues hand tightening any caliper bolts
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 05:55 PM
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hand tools are fine, use vise grip or c-clamp for pistons, just leave the old pad in while pushing in pistons.
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 06:03 PM
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thanks guys. also seems like I should use the locktite for the bolts?

and to confirm, the rotor is only held on by the one torx bolt right?
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Old Mar 30, 2014 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by natman316
also, do I need a clamp to squeeze the pistons back in to change my pads? (I remember doing this on another car..)
I've used a piece of wood before at various times in my shade tree mechanic life but this is now in my tool box:

Amazon.com: Lisle 29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader: Automotive Amazon.com: Lisle 29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader: Automotive
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by natman316
anyone know where I can find torque specs for the braking system?I dont have an impact wrench/air tools but I can use hand tools right?thank you!
I have found I can push the pads and pistons back to their most open position by hand. Give that a try first. I do keep my brakes serviced on a regular basis and free of crud. Other than that you will need a pad spreader (proper way) or use your imagination but go easy (a large screw driver will work wonders but can cause damage so be forewarned). A c-clamp will work if you can get it in there but hard to not damage paint work on calipers and find a flat surface on the caliper to clamp against. Also there are six pistons front/4 rear so you will need a plate of some sort (brake pad) or try to hold 5 pistons while you compress one.

Hand tools are the preferred way to do this job except for the lug bolts maybe. Actually air tools are not the best way to do lug bolts either but that is what most mechanics (sic) use regardless.

Torque Specs (comps alldata - give it a try)

Front caliper bolts to carrier - 180Nm
Rear caliper bolts to carrier - 110Nm
Sensor bolts - 8Nm
Front cross bolt anti-rattle spring support - 30Nm
Disc to hub screw - 10Nm
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 10:36 AM
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pop open the brake fluid reservoir to let the fluid expand so as not to pressurize the other lines in the system, and use your hands. I have no problems pushing the pistons back in by hand.
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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will give that a try tomorrow and keep you posted, thank you guys.

Mort: you have to pay for that service right?
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 05:06 PM
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Alldatadiy.com, and it is like $20 a year or something per car.. well worth the money.
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 11:36 PM
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I hate to say this but if you have to ask the question in this thread title you should probably let it go. So can anyone who has done this on there own actually tell me what the t30 torque screw that holds the rotor on is actually for? this might be a trick question
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Old Mar 31, 2014 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by roadtalontsi
I hate to say this but if you have to ask the question in this thread title you should probably let it go. So can anyone who has done this on there own actually tell me what the t30 torque screw that holds the rotor on is actually for? this might be a trick question
sounds like a trick question indeed.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 10:30 AM
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It's just to hold it in place. The actual rotor is held in place by the clamping force of the wheels. The screw is a set screw to hold the rotor in place while the wheel and caliper have been removed.

It is not even needed ultimately once the wheel is on.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jvanbrecht
It's just to hold it in place. The actual rotor is held in place by the clamping force of the wheels. The screw is a set screw to hold the rotor in place while the wheel and caliper have been removed.

It is not even needed ultimately once the wheel is on.
Best to have an impact driver handy.

I think they are "needed" if you catch my drift.
Last edited by bhamg; Apr 1, 2014 at 12:29 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 07:35 PM
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how do we remove this part?



there was a 13mm bolt on the other end that i removed but then I couldnt move the rest of it.

thanks.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 07:49 PM
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Put the bolt back in almost all the way and give it a light tap or two. That should loosen up the cross bolt. It just has some light corrosion or crud holding it in place.
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mort
Put the bolt back in almost all the way and give it a light tap or two. That should loosen up the cross bolt. It just has some light corrosion or crud holding it in place.
+1
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