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Long tube header questions

Old Sep 27, 2014 | 12:35 AM
  #1  
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Long tube header questions

I am putting in a set of agency power headers next weekend... But I have a few questions:

1) Where the individual pipes meet the double y, is anything supposed to band them to it? They just seem to float in there, what prevents it from leaking?

2) do any install instructions exist? I have a very good idea of what i'm doing, but any tips/tricks would be a hoot.

Thanks!
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 11:19 AM
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Small hands and patiences.

The removal of the stock logs is the hardest slowest part.

You will want to make sure you have absolutely no leaks before the o2 sensors. These cars run closed loop 24/7. Any leaks before the o2 will cause havok.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 12:12 PM
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Patience will definitely be your biggest ally. That and a good selection of tools. MB advises undoing the motor mounts and lifting the engine a little and moving it side to side to get at the exhaust manifold nuts. Barring that (and on Merc63's suggestion) I removed the valve covers to get some valuable space to get my hands in to get the nuts off and back on.

Maybe seal the primaries/collectors with high temp silicone?
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mort
Patience will definitely be your biggest ally. That and a good selection of tools. MB advises undoing the motor mounts and lifting the engine a little and moving it side to side to get at the exhaust manifold nuts. Barring that (and on Merc63's suggestion) I removed the valve covers to get some valuable space to get my hands in to get the nuts off and back on.

Maybe seal the primaries/collectors with high temp silicone?
Is it do-able without removing valve covers or lifting the motor? I have access to a full hoist and a myriad of tools as we will be doing it in our shop, but an engine lift is... Less then savoury. Me and some other shop staff will be coming in on a saturday to do it, so time is not a limiting factor thankfully.

I will use high temp exhaust sealant on them, thanks for the tip.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
These cars run closed loop 24/7.
That's interesting. I'm really used to the O2 loop only being closed during cruise and part throttle. They use the tables for the open loop at WOT. Do you have a link that describes the AMG control system?
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ToXicXxX
Is it do-able without removing valve covers or lifting the motor? I have access to a full hoist and a myriad of tools as we will be doing it in our shop, but an engine lift is... Less then savoury. Me and some other shop staff will be coming in on a saturday to do it, so time is not a limiting factor thankfully.

I will use high temp exhaust sealant on them, thanks for the tip.
I am sure it has been done without moving the engine or removing the valve covers but it is a tight squeeze on some locations especially on the driver's side. I worked on stands off of the floor and I am sure a lift will make a big difference for getting at things. With the MBH headers I had to take the engine mount heat shields off to get the headers in place but was able to reinstall them after the headers were in place. GL with the install.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Mort
I am sure it has been done without moving the engine or removing the valve covers but it is a tight squeeze on some locations especially on the driver's side. I worked on stands off of the floor and I am sure a lift will make a big difference for getting at things. With the MBH headers I had to take the engine mount heat shields off to get the headers in place but was able to reinstall them after the headers were in place. GL with the install.
Sounds good. I will document the procedure if I can, to help future members.

I'm hoping the right combination of extensions and wobbles make it doable. I purchased new exhaust gaskets from MB too, figured I might as well do it right.

Looks like I will be ordering an Akrapovic axleback as well, to help calm the beast.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 06:00 PM
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I purchased new gaskets as well and they are a small part of the cost. One of the oem gaskets came out delaminated so I was just as happy I had new ones.

That Akrapovic axleback will give a nice deep rumble and will sound great. Do you have an x-pipe for the mid section? That will help tame the beast as well.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mort
I purchased new gaskets as well and they are a small part of the cost. One of the oem gaskets came out delaminated so I was just as happy I had new ones.

That Akrapovic axleback will give a nice deep rumble and will sound great. Do you have an x-pipe for the mid section? That will help tame the beast as well.
No, I have the AP straight midpipes. I may weld in a x pipe if it's really needed. But i'll try an exhaust first. I want to retain the mean note and the pop and crackles ( i cannot get enough of this car when it backfires, it just completes my driving experience. Coming from my previous cars this is a hoot.), but keep it legal. (where I live they actually ticket you using db measuring equipment if you are too loud, theres a fella here who got a ticket with a stock 63 black edition!).


Last edited by ToXicXxX; Sep 27, 2014 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 07:14 PM
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Hey. I was curious about it "leaking" also. Ap stated that they seal from the heat after driving with them on for some miles.
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MaroonC63
Hey. I was curious about it "leaking" also. Ap stated that they seal from the head after driving with them on for some miles.
Ahh, thermal expansion then?
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 03:41 PM
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Use a new mb exhaust manifold gasket, don't use silicone, you will get it everywhere.

Valve covers off makes reaching from the top way easier, gives you a lot more room.

I do most of the work from the bottom on the car with some custom tools I made. Ratchet wrench welded to a piece of metal rod to increase length and also a socket welded to a long metal rod.

Some of the stock nuts can be on pretty right and rusted a bit.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl
That's interesting. I'm really used to the O2 loop only being closed during cruise and part throttle. They use the tables for the open loop at WOT. Do you have a link that describes the AMG control system?
It isn't an AMG control system, it's a bosch system.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
Use a new mb exhaust manifold gasket, don't use silicone, you will get it everywhere.

Valve covers off makes reaching from the top way easier, gives you a lot more room.

I do most of the work from the bottom on the car with some custom tools I made. Ratchet wrench welded to a piece of metal rod to increase length and also a socket welded to a long metal rod.

Some of the stock nuts can be on pretty right and rusted a bit.
My car is basically new old stock (very low milage), and has never been driven in winter/rain, so hopefully they will not be rusted on at all.

Any advice on tools? I imagine the Mac truck will be by this week, I can pick some stuff up if I need.

Last edited by ToXicXxX; Sep 28, 2014 at 03:48 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
It isn't an AMG control system, it's a bosch system.
OK, that is great to know. Let me modify my original question then....

Do you have a link that describes the Bosch control system?

Last edited by glennhl; Sep 28, 2014 at 03:53 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mort
I purchased new gaskets as well and they are a small part of the cost. One of the oem gaskets came out delaminated so I was just as happy I had new ones.
Shouldn't you always use new gaskets when swapping headers? Just curious if I ever try and do it myself...
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jcfay
Shouldn't you always use new gaskets when swapping headers? Just curious if I ever try and do it myself...
You should always use new gaskets when doing anything. The minute cost of the gasket is trivial in comparison the the time needed to go back and replace them if they leak. We always treat them as compromised as soon as they have been exposed.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl
OK, that is great to know. Let me modify my original question then....

Do you have a link that describes the Bosch control system?
No, there was a book you could buy on amazon I've seen.

Bosch me9.7

I think all the bosch me9.x are closed loop.


Closed loop is great, you can make a few small changes without a retune. Only down side is you have to maintain the exhaust and air boxes, no leaks or it will mess with the systems closed loop feedback.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ToXicXxX
My car is basically new old stock (very low milage), and has never been driven in winter/rain, so hopefully they will not be rusted on at all.

Any advice on tools? I imagine the Mac truck will be by this week, I can pick some stuff up if I need.
The best tool to get is a ratchet wrench so you can pop it over the nut and keep turning without removing it every time.

Lots of nuts don't have room for a socket.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
The best tool to get is a ratchet wrench so you can pop it over the nut and keep turning without removing it every time.

Lots of nuts don't have room for a socket.
I have a set of those thankfully, both with swivel heads and fixed ones that are fairly long.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
No, there was a book you could buy on amazon I've seen.

Bosch me9.7

I think all the bosch me9.x are closed loop.


Closed loop is great, you can make a few small changes without a retune. Only down side is you have to maintain the exhaust and air boxes, no leaks or it will mess with the systems closed loop feedback.

Thanks, excellent info. I'll look for the book. It's weird, most american cars are open loop at wot. I also follow Indycar racing and the Chevy engine closes the loop, but the Honda runs 100% in open loop and just uses the O2 sensor to gather data so that they can make future changes to the open loop tables.
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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 06:47 PM
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I would LOVE to get a set of long tube headers. If I wasn't such a wimp in wanting to keep it stock, I would.
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 01:27 AM
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Its doable without removing valve covers, or undoing the engine mounts. On the drivers side I removed the a/c freon than unhooked the ac line that runs there. I had to leave my engine mount heatshields off after installing the headers.
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by dubzAMG
Its doable without removing valve covers, or undoing the engine mounts. On the drivers side I removed the a/c freon than unhooked the ac line that runs there. I had to leave my engine mount heatshields off after installing the headers.
I don't have AC purge/recharge equipment. Though I know someone who does. Hopefully we can do it without that.
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Old Sep 29, 2014 | 07:58 AM
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I'd keep an eye on them after you install. I had a set of Agency Headers on my 360 Challenge Stradale and both sides cracked at the collector after 1k miles.
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