Time for new rotors/pads
) At this point i'm debating if should upgrade to 2 piece rotors front and rear or just stick with the fronts. Would upgrading to 2 piece even be worth it for me?OEM 1 piece rotors, pads (front and rear): $939.00
OEM (P30) 2 piece rotors (front only), pad (front and rear): $2163.00
RB Brakes 2 piece front rotors, pads + oem 1 piece rear rotors, pads: $1943.00
Last edited by itzjonjon69; Oct 13, 2014 at 11:50 AM.
) At this point i'm debating if should upgrade to 2 piece rotors front and rear or just stick with the fronts. Would upgrading to 2 piece even be worth it for me? OEM 1 piece rotors, pads (front and rear): $939.00 OEM (P30) 2 piece rotors, pad (front and rear): $2163.00 RB Brakes 2 piece front rotors, pads + oem 1 piece rear rotors, pads: $1943.00Book marked for future reference lol
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For the difference if you replace the 2 piece every 80k miles you do the 1 piece every 40k and still be way ahead
Before I get the 'cheap *******' BS I can afford it but don't squander my hard earned cash
Also... I was on ECS tuning and i noticed they said that rotor screws aren't included. Do these need to be replaced or something or can i reuse the ones i have now?
Also... I was on ECS tuning and i noticed they said that rotor screws aren't included. Do these need to be replaced or something or can i reuse the ones i have now?
A bit dusty but easy on the rotors and good cold bite
They are smooth in application and transition nicely
Get the srews you 'cheap *******' jk lol
You will probably bung them up getting them out
Use a bit of anti-sieze on the new ones
Last edited by itzjonjon69; Oct 13, 2014 at 01:09 PM.

Porterfields are a good choice as well.
Last edited by abcut973; Oct 13, 2014 at 01:12 PM. Reason: didn't read the full thread
Much swearing and cursing involved when they strip
If you do
Let sit with some penetrating oil squirted on them
Insert key and tap lightly to break loose
Then make sure the tool is seated fully and apply gradual pressure
Then throw a fit when it strips lol
E-Z out tools should be on hand
Or drill the head off and remove the shank with vice-grips
Either way you'll still need a screw
Last edited by Ingenieur; Oct 13, 2014 at 02:00 PM.
I do brakes on BMW's all the time (exact same single set screw) and it comes out with a tiny bit of force on a 3/8th wrench. Actually did the brakes and discs on a Range Rover sport (exact same brakes and very similar rotors), and it was also easy.
But throw some copper anti-seize on them when they go back in.
The head might be a bit corroded, so when you insert the hex bit, give it a smack with the ratchet to make sure it's seated.






