Question on intake manifold bolts for resident techs
#1
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Question on intake manifold bolts for resident techs
I'm replacing my intake manifold bolts, perhaps as early as tomorrow. Specified torque is 10 Nm+90º+10º. I'll be using Blue Loctite gel, so my plan is 9 Nm, the 90º turn but skipping the additional 10º. The (-1) Nm is to compensate for the lubricating effect of the Loctite and bypassing the last 10º turn due to the fixing action of the Loctite. Or do I still need the bolt stretch of the last 10º turn? Or should I try 8 Nm+90º+10º as I was originally thinking? Opinions are welcome.
#2
Degrees don't matter if its lubed or not that's why they say to use degrees, it's more accurate than a torque wrench which reads resistance. The initial 10nm shouldn't matter too much, I'd just follow their procedure. Why the loctite? Are these bolts loosening out?
#3
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Looking to eliminate the possibility of new bolts loosening.
#5
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go all the way. I dont think the original spec had the + 10* which really is barely tighter. I've never used loctite but i dont think it'll hurt anything.
#7
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2011 C63 AMG P31
Those bolts can take a hell of a beating before they snap, but don't ask me how I know that... But yeah, they are TTY, locktite or none is irrelevant.
Heres the AllData S3000 bulletin on it:
Attachment 445398
Attachment 445399
Attachment 445400
I actually blew some of the *******s out with a little afterfiring.
Heres the AllData S3000 bulletin on it:
Attachment 445398
Attachment 445399
Attachment 445400
I actually blew some of the *******s out with a little afterfiring.
Last edited by ToXicXxX; 02-22-2015 at 11:58 PM.
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#8
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Good to know. I was probably obsessing a little unnecessarily because they don't actually look and feel that strong to me.