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OK. As I said it was just a suggestion. Just thought it might help expedite the diagnosis and any analysis done by EC. Remember at the end of the day, an ECU is nothing but a computer designed to control the electro-mechanical functions of the vehicle. So ensuring the code is properly installed and functioning would be step one in any problem analysis.
As for the "adapt" issue, the new software loaded into your ECU should take effect immediately and make all the electro-mechanical systems respond accordingly to the new command codes. Any initial physical delay or transition time, if there even is any, would likely be measured only in a few seconds due to the mechanical aspects of the vehicle (turbo pressure, spark timing, etc.) changing how they are being asked to perform by the new software.
Please let us know how everything works out. This is one of the best threads I've read on this site so far.
Agreed, this is one of the most informative threads, and clearly useful for a large number of people.
I also agree that a lot of the 'learning' would be very quick. As for tuning, a N/A would be quite a bit easier than a forced induction car as there would be less tables/variables to adjust.
Waiting for another tune as the original one I received had issues.
As mentioned the customer service has been VERY impressive from EC.
Yes, learning more about the characteristics / capabilities of MB vehicles is the chief reason I joined this site. There seems to be a lot of very knowledgeable people here, who are willing to share their experience and knowledge. Much better than a lot of other brand sites.
As to tuning, I get that it is a less than precise science given the conditions all the tuning businesses have to operate within. With most or all of the major auto manufactures either encrypting their ECUs, to prevent easy access and modification, or making their own in-house diagnostic tools used in dealerships password protected or otherwise limited in some functionality, to prevent what they consider to be "tampering" or "illegal modding", it is very difficult for these tuning shops to always get it right the first time. So some trial and error is bound to be expected to work out some minor issues.
Agreed, this is one of the most informative threads, and clearly useful for a large number of people.
I also agree that a lot of the 'learning' would be very quick. As for tuning, a N/A would be quite a bit easier than a forced induction car as there would be less tables/variables to adjust.
Waiting for another tune as the original one I received had issues.
As mentioned the customer service has been VERY impressive from EC.
What issues did your tune have?
I am concerned that I might have some issues too due to that jerking of the vehicle I mentioned going from 2nd to 3rd gear when gunning it. They told me to disconnect the battery overnight and try. I did that but haven't had a chance to drive it today so far. So as soon as I get out of the office, I intend to do that and see if the issue is still there.
How long does it take to upload the tune to the vehicle?
When I was uploading tunes on a BMW using a handheld device, it would take 30 minutes and interrupting the process with any action (start the car, open doors or windows, etc) could potentially brick the ECU.
FWIW the difference is quite noticeable in my mind. The crackling, popping and burbling on downshifts and coasting is noticeable enough that my wife immediately knew something was different.
She thinks the car is faster and asked what I did (i.e. how much I spent).
Have to admit when the fans went on during the install it freaked me up, because the dash showed that the traction control was inoperative and I thought that I bricked my ECU. haha
Definitely happy with the ECU flash, now I just need to get some more work to make the car faster
I am concerned that I might have some issues too due to that jerking of the vehicle I mentioned going from 2nd to 3rd gear when gunning it. They told me to disconnect the battery overnight and try. I did that but haven't had a chance to drive it today so far. So as soon as I get out of the office, I intend to do that and see if the issue is still there.
Couldn't upload the file.
Jerry sent another file FIRST thing this morning despite being quite busy.
Got the file uploaded without issue.
The car was immediately different, and as mentioned in the earlier post my wife who was unaware that I installed the new tune knew something was up.
I've put on some mileage and the car feels much different than it did when I first installed the tune. The car is very fast and the shifting is much more abrupt. It feels like an smg transmission from an e46 M3 now. I'm going to find a place where I can do some good pulls to go through the RPMs and gears to really get an idea of where it is.
Regardless what people say about the tune adapting immediately, there are plenty of people who have documented some mileage needed before everything running smoothly. The car definitely changed from when I first downloaded the tune to now. It's much smoother now. I would say the biggest change is between 3-6k RPMs.
I emailed Jerry with my issues yesterday no response yet. I have already tried the battery disconnect method and that didn't quite fix the issue. Let's see.
I've pretty much always driven in S mode the same way as I did after the tune and never noticed any issues before. So I am fairly sure that the tune is the cause. Plus, I am not sure how to go back to stock either. I hoping for some help/instructions from EC cause everyone raves about their customer service, so it'd be nice to see if they can actually help.
I've pretty much always driven in S mode the same way as I did after the tune and never noticed any issues before. So I am fairly sure that the tune is the cause. Plus, I am not sure how to go back to stock either. I hoping for some help/instructions from EC cause everyone raves about their customer service, so it'd be nice to see if they can actually help.
Going back to the stock map is the exact same process you used to flash the modded map other than there will be a step at the beginning where you select the stock map instead of the modded map.....after that, the process is the same.
Connect up your MyGenius handheld to the car and it will be fairly obvious.
Going back to the stock map is the exact same process you used to flash the modded map other than there will be a step at the beginning where you select the stock map instead of the modded map.....after that, the process is the same.
Connect up your MyGenius handheld to the car and it will be fairly obvious.
I feel the biggest difference between 2-3k RPM. The needle moves a lot faster at that point. Did some highway pulls this weekend and for some reason, it felt like there was as slight loss in power around 4.5-5k then pulled again all the way to redline. It didn't happen every time, just occasionally. Is this something that could be tweaked/measured without having some dyno data to go off of?
Otherwise, I am very happy with the tune. Car is a lot faster, the shifting is much sharper, and the car sounds great... I haven't seem a whole lot of improvement on gas mileage, but I think I know why...
She thinks the car is faster and asked what I did (i.e. how much I spent).
So I'm just catching up to this thread after traveling for work and this is the best statement in the thread so far! Glad you guys are using this and helping each other out.
I feel the biggest difference between 2-3k RPM. The needle moves a lot faster at that point. Did some highway pulls this weekend and for some reason, it felt like there was as slight loss in power around 4.5-5k then pulled again all the way to redline. It didn't happen every time, just occasionally. Is this something that could be tweaked/measured without having some dyno data to go off of?
Otherwise, I am very happy with the tune. Car is a lot faster, the shifting is much sharper, and the car sounds great... I haven't seem a whole lot of improvement on gas mileage, but I think I know why...
we would have to have data logs to go off of to see what the car is doing.
Unplug the battery overnight and see if the car adaptations were playing with you.
we would have to have data logs to go off of to see what the car is doing.
Unplug the battery overnight and see if the car adaptations were playing with you.
I spoke to someone at your shop this morning about the issues I have been having. I have a dyno appointment Friday morning so hopefully I can give you guys some data to look at.
I was going to create a thread about my experience with Eurocharged but I figured I'd post here instead. Before I begin, shoutout to the OP for this informative thread...it was extremely helpful!
I sent payment for the V5 tune and MyGenius handheld last Monday and was expecting to receive it the Thursday or Friday after (since I live in Canada). To my surprise, the package arrived to my door the next day (not even 24 hours after the payment was sent). I sent the ECU file over the weekend and received the V5 tune file this morning. I just finished installing it about an hour ago...took the car for a quick spin and noticed a difference right away.
The exhaust sound of the car IMO didn't really change. Maybe I have to cruise around a bit for the ECU to become familiar? Very little noticeable power difference in C mode. In S, S+, and M you definitely feel the difference. For those of you who are previous BMW E90/E92 335 owners, the difference in feeling is equivalent to a stock N54/N55 vs. N54/N55 with JB4. Incredible! Very satisfied...thanks again Eurocharged!
I was going to create a thread about my experience with Eurocharged but I figured I'd post here instead. Before I begin, shoutout to the OP for this informative thread...it was extremely helpful!
I sent payment for the V5 tune and MyGenius handheld last Monday and was expecting to receive it the Thursday or Friday after (since I live in Canada). To my surprise, the package arrived to my door the next day (not even 24 hours after the payment was sent). I sent the ECU file over the weekend and received the V5 tune file this morning. I just finished installing it about an hour ago...took the car for a quick spin and noticed a difference right away.
The exhaust sound of the car IMO didn't really change. Maybe I have to cruise around a bit for the ECU to become familiar? Very little noticeable power difference in C mode. In S, S+, and M you definitely feel the difference. For those of you who are previous BMW E90/E92 335 owners, the difference in feeling is equivalent to a stock N54/N55 vs. N54/N55 with JB4. Incredible! Very satisfied...thanks again Eurocharged!
Get the exhaust system hot and it definitely sounds different
I feel the biggest difference between 2-3k RPM. The needle moves a lot faster at that point. Did some highway pulls this weekend and for some reason, it felt like there was as slight loss in power around 4.5-5k then pulled again all the way to redline. It didn't happen every time, just occasionally. Is this something that could be tweaked/measured without having some dyno data to go off of?
That's pretty much the EXACT issue I am having and I have to say it's quite annoying as it comes and goes. Did talk to Jerry over email and he sent me a NON-BLIP V5 file that he said they had tested on a similar car as mine and had no issues. I did not want to install that as having the extra blips was one of the major reasons why I even wanted the tune to begin with. So I advised him of the same and then he said well the blip version has been tested to run perfectly as well on your car and you should unplug the battery over night. I had mentioned to him well before that that I had done that as someone in their shop had advised me to and that hadn't made a difference.
At this point I just didn't bother messaging him back out of frustration plus it didn't sound like any real solution/help was going to be offered. The jerkings from 2-3 gear are so annoying and aggressive at times in C and S mode that my fiancee who was riding with me complained of feeling nauseous at one point when I was trying a spirited straight drive. I will say this though, when I drive the car by switching gears manually with the pedal there is absolutely no problem. It's only when it's automatically shifting gears in C and S mode.
Last edited by papashango; May 12, 2015 at 09:31 AM.
That's pretty much the EXACT issue I am having and I have to say it's quite annoying as it comes and goes. Did talk to Jerry over email and he sent me a NON-BLIP V5 file that he said they had tested on a similar car as mine and had no issues. I did not want to install that as having the extra blips was one of the major reasons why I even wanted the tune to begin with. So I advised him of the same and then he said well the blip version has been tested to run perfectly as well on your car and you should unplug the battery over night. I had mentioned to him well before that that I had done that as someone in their shop had advised me to and that hadn't made a difference.
At this point I just didn't bother messaging him back out of frustration plus it didn't sound like any real solution/help was going to be offered. The jerkings from 2-3 gear are so annoying and aggressive at times in C and S mode that my fiancee who was riding with me complained of feeling nauseous at one point when I was trying a spirited straight drive. I will say this though, when I drive the car by switching gears manually with the pedal there is absolutely no problem. It's only when it's automatically shifting gears in C and S mode.
I dyno'd the car last week and everything seems to be in line and running properly. I do not notice any difference in shifting in C mode. The only difference I see if in S mode in regards to shift points.
I dyno'd the car last week and everything seems to be in line and running properly. I do not notice any difference in shifting in C mode. The only difference I see if in S mode in regards to shift points.
The numbers were very low (AWD mustang dyno). I didn't do a stock tune run because I was more interested in the AFR/Timing for all three runs so I don't have an overall gain. The shop I went to also did a custom ML63 tune and they only got an additional 7whp out of it over my Eurocharged tune. I guess if you compare the numbers then it is pretty close to inline with Eurocharged advertised gains.
I just received my MyGenius Wednesday sent my stock file in to EC and got back a tune file next day. Now the original tune file had an issue and threw an error incompatible with ECU. Then I received a new corrected tune file and was trying to upload it to MyGenius from my computer now I'm getting new error messages one stating "Folder not found(file/write)" and another error stating "error while communicating with MyGenius device. Unable to set time and date on MyGenius".
I've tried updating both the handle held and software, tried a different computer, and even EC was unable to remotely get it to work. Has anyone see this issue and maybe have any suggestions. EC service is great and they're quick but we can't figure this out. Just really frustrated thus far and wanted to see if anyone here may have had the same or similar issues? Thanks!
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