XeMODeX is a good alternative to get it fixed as it's most likely the esp unit, and not the abs pump that is faulty. But you will be without a car for a long period of time if you live far away from their repair service.
I just saw a lot of different statements in the thread, so I just wanted to do a summary of my investigation, maybe helping people to make a educated guess.

I've attachet two pictures from the module. One from before i tore it out of its housing and one after


After tear out from its housing

Lid off

 

Hi , i have the same issue, so i bought the esp module and replaced it. But I Didn’t win code it because of holidays, but now no ignition lights on dash. Can’t really drive it to local merc dealership for coding. What will cause this?? Definitely not the battery . Can anyone help me with starting the car please.

 

Have you tried to reinsert the old modul again? What do you mean with no ignition lights? Is there any lights at all? Are you able to turn the key? Need a little more to go on before being able to give an educated guess

 

Hi Aroekene,
I didn’t tried the old module back. But i drove home after installing the new module without any problems only esc inoperative was showing which my mechanic said need to vin code it. After 2 hours i tried to start the car but no ignition lights at all & when i open the door it just shows km display but when i turn the key nothing is happening. No lights on dashboard at all. I can turn the key but nothing at all.

 

I would have tried to run a diagnostic to see if anything shows up. Could be a CAN-BUS error.

 

[QUOTE=Mikecrash;6427021]Message pops up when the car gets past 5mph. Before then all systems are fine then message pops up and power steering shuts off.

Getting it towed to the dealer tomorrow - God I hope it's not the head bolt issue.

Anyone have any suggestions/advice or info. Would be so appreciative - car is out of warranty

Car was running just fine before this. Fired it up in the morning to go to work and there it was.

MY ADVICE, BASED ON THE LENGTH OF TIME YOU'VE OWNED THIS MONEY PIT IS:: SELL IT, BURN IT,GIVE IT TO AN ENEMY BUT CERTAINLY DON'T TAKE IT TO A DEALER. I EXPERIENCE THE EXACT ISSUE WITH MY 2008 E350 4 MATIC. HOPING TO CATCH A GULLIBLE BUYER FROM OUT-OF-STATE. MY CAR WAS BUILT IN GERMANY BY HITLER'S HIT SQUAD AND THEY ARE ATTEMPTING TO GARNER SOME REVENGE. I HAVE LEARNED MY LESSON AND EVEN IF I ACCIDENTALLY WON A BRAND NEW MERCEDES WOULD GIVE IT BACK AND NEVER ENTER LOTTERY OR SWEEPSTAKES WHERE MERCEDES IS THE GRAND PRIZE. JUNK/JUNK/JUNK/JUNK.

 

Suddenly I get this parking brake error along with the SRS and ebd error and my car won't start, no stutter, no dim lights, just Parking brake and engine light. Eventually when it does start it will drive like a champ, the error will either go away or will stay.. but it drives great. Few days later it takes me sitting in my car for 30 min of waiting then trying to start before it starts.. what can I do?

 

I've run into a bit of an issue with my ESP Module. 2009 C63 AMG. ~100k miles. (has Kleeman tune from original owner, not sure if that matters)

I was getting the typical ABS, BRAKE, ESP, No Cruise Control, No power steering errors. Below are the codes. These are pulled with a Foxwell Scanner and also a Carly scanner/phone.

U010100 - Communication with control unit Transmission.
U01218 - Communication with ESP has a malfunction.
U021287 - Communication with the steering column module has a malfunction.
P2158 - Vehicle speed sensor "B"
U0121 - Loss communication with anti-lock brake (ABS) control module

A couple months ago I was able to clear the codes and it went away for a while...maybe a couple weeks. Then clearing codes didn't do anything. I inspected the ESP module and it had some excess glue on it and the connection part that receives the wire plug had a crack in it so I suspected the module was faulty. Emailed XeModeX to see if they had repaired it in the past since that seems to be the prominent repair service across the forums. They had not repaired any unit based on my VIN. I sent my module into XeModeX for repair. Unfortunately they confirmed that unit had been tampered with and could not repair it. They sold me a used/repaired one for an additional $200 coded with my VIN.

Installed new unit and all errors went away for 1 day and the codes all came back.
I preceded to replace the two front ABS wheel sensors, Codes remained
I replaced two rear ABS wheel sensors. Codes remained.
I replaced brake light switch. Codes remained.

Took to a indie mechanic (ex master tech for MB) and he spent two hours diagnosing/testing for the ESP. They noticed a little bit of wetness on drivers side floor due to clogged sunroof drain. (No damage, verified both CAN Bus bridge connectors are fully functional). Final diag was the ESP module was dead. Could not get it to communicate with their scan tool.

These are the tests/verification my mechanic did.
-Quick test; no communication between ESP in several control units. Unable to establish communication with ESP module.
-Checked fuses F1, F20, F14, F21 at front SAM, all fuses have 12v.
-Unplugged ESP module and verify power at pins 32, 1, 2. All Okay
-Check ground at pins 16 and 47. All Okay
Check CAN Bus at Chassis bus connector under driver's carpet. Checked continuity pins 12 - 1, and pins 13-2. All Okay.
Recommend replacing ESP control unit.

Contacted XeModeX for warranty support. Reported my problems and they had me ship back the unit.
They determined the unit had a fault and repaired (whatever it is they repair inside) and tested unit. Sat on their test bench working for 7 hours.
Shipped back the newly repaired. Installed it, cleared up all the errors, ran flawlessly over the course of several hours of driving, turning car on and off.
24 hours later all the errors come back and cannot clear.

Shipping back the unit to XeModeX again for diagnosis and or repair. (Customer service has been top notch so far).
However, they are suggesting it is my car that is the problem and shorting out the ESP module. I have a hard time swallowing that assumption because if my car was shorting out the ESP module, it would do it immediately, not several hours later or sitting overnight.

Anyone else run into an issue like this ? I'm not even sure what my next steps to trouble shoot here if the module comes back and gets fried again for a 3rd time.

 

repaired mine and everything is perfect!!! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction with this repair. Xemodex took care of repair in a week and returned the part. All I did was installed the repaired module and started the car a few times! Cleared stored codes and all is golden.

 

hi sir, what is the link to the Australian company that did the repair?

i was told that my ABR ASSEMBLY needs to be replaced as it had water leaking in.

 

I too am having this issue with ABS, EBD, ESP after 5mph. I am hoping its dirty wheel speed sensors, as I swapped to Akebono brake pads a few months ago.
From Carly I have faults:
C1001 - 5001 there is an inner defect in control unit N30/4 --> Stored

C1944 - 5944 there is an inner defect in control unit N30/4 --> Stored

P095515 - 'Program Selection' has defect ---> This code went away after clearing the error codes and hasn't returned


The top two codes stay consistently. Problem started recently. Hoping its something simple. I have cleaned the module connector with air and isopropyl. I also inspected ABS module looked okay no tears in vacuum lines etc.. Any suggestions??? I am still hoping its simple like a wheel speed sensor, however I have no code for this. I just heard Akebono's produce more dust and cause a sensor issue on occasion. Lights turn on at around 5- 10 mph. I have no issue with power steering. This is on a w204 c300 4matic.

 

hello new here but I have that same issue with the codes 5001 and 5945 could it be also caused by faulty speed sensor ?

 

Hi all - I appreciate this thread!

2011 E350 S212 wagon.

Some time ago my ESP/ABS computer started to fail once the car (or the unit) warmed fully to regular operating temperature. Once failed, I got the error messages, lights, and lost power steering, cruise, etc.

I took my failing unit to a place called UPFIX (local to me). https://www.upfix.com/ They did their "repair" but the unit continued to fail once warmed up. I took it back, they found and replaced a capacitor, but unit continues to fail once hot.

I bought a used unit off eBay for $73 and it works as expected (with ABS, ESC warnings) but I do not lose power steering. I took the car today to my local MB dealer and was told they are unable to program used units to my VIN - they can only program new units (@ US$1350 + $460 labor).

Is this true? Haven't I read where used units have been programmed as replacements?

Any recommendations for where I could have the unit programmed?

Can you recommend where to buy a replacement that can be programmed? or best place to buy a new unit?

I will call https://xemodex.com/us/ when they open next week.

Any other vendors?

Many thanks!

 

Yikes, the ex has the 2009 C63 and it's got the "virus." I will comb these good inputs to guide her in her misery. She's already in for $2000 at stealership (s). Even the indy shop wants another $2K for the next "step," so far undefined. I can at leas review what has been done. An aside from the local MB dealer "you need new camshafts." Sounds like outrageous fraud on the car which has probably never seen 7 grand rev and only 50K miles. I have not searched this topic here. The last I was active here was during the heyday of "head bolts," which I surmised was a corrosion problem during over heat. Cheers

 

Currently having an issue with error codes
U0121 - Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module
and
P2158 - Vehicle Speed Sensor "B" Circuit

Things checked/tried
-Checked fuses all seem good
-Replaced rear wheel bearings
-Replaced front wheel bearings
-Replaced speed sensor cables for all 4 tires

I originally started another thread, but it looks like this is my issue so consolidating here to help other when I find out if this is the issue or not.

 

OK SO I WAS ABLE TO FIX THIS AT HOME!

Turns out my issue was the module being broken. Here's the steps

1. Remove the cover by going around the edge with something narrow and able to pry a small amount, I used a 5 in 1 paint tool



Step 2. After cover is removed, preheat oven to 400deg F and use tin foil ***** to prop it up so the circuit board is level and facing up, Cook for 15 minutes and let cool. This is an old video card trick and reflows the solder.

Step 3 Add reinforcing solder to all the pins sticking up (outlined in red I may have missed some basically all the pins that are tall and stick up) , they seem to have small holes in the center, but what I did was fill those all with solder by placing my soldering iron as shown below (dark blue) just barely touching the base right by the hole, the applying solder (light blue) into the hole and filling. Doesn't take much. Make sure to inspect and that you don't bridge any solder joints they are small so use thin solder wire and take your time.



Step 4 Seal this back together with black silicone and let dry about 2-3 hours before testing although silicone is dielectric so it should be fine Worked flawless for me and if the next step is replace the module anyways doesn't matter if you mess it up this was a last attempt to save anyways. Hope this helps you, please like this post if it helped you out and worked for you, thanks.

 

Wondered if all my repairer did was deal with dry solder joints. Your findings suggest that there may have been little diagnostic testing and likely just a solder joint overhaul.

 

I would guess so, probably making a killing tho at that price... the position of this ecu it is subject to much heat/vibration its like 2inches from the engine and I'm sure a tune only adds to heat/vibration the joints have barely any solder on them.