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I just did this install on mine and interestingly there were no threads on the cover for the rectifier to bolt onto. Had no trouble tapping it properly but it was a bit surprising. I wonder if they're all like that or if I got one made on Friday afternoon :P
And for the sticklers out there:
front bolt 65NM
rear bolts 170NM
(credit to Mort for the specs)
I just did this install on mine and interestingly there were no threads on the cover for the rectifier to bolt onto. Had no trouble tapping it properly but it was a bit surprising. I wonder if they're all like that or if I got one made on Friday afternoon :P
And for the sticklers out there:
front bolt 65NM
rear bolts 170NM
(credit to Mort for the specs)
Nope. I know at least a few people, myself included, have reported no threads. I don't think they come tapped.
... there were no threads on the cover for the rectifier to bolt onto. Had no trouble tapping it properly but it was a bit surprising. I wonder if they're all like that
Chris is correct, you did not have a Friday afternoon special
All of these finned aluminum Diff Covers are untapped from factory, and use the harder galvanized steel self-tapping bolts to secure the Rectifier/Heat Sink to the Diff Cover.
Hey guys, Im going to be swapping my stock open diff out for the stock LSD from a p31 car sometime in next few weeks. With that I ordered all the cooling accessories in this thread figuring why not swap the cover since it looks pretty badass (even though I'll prob never see it) and hey if cools/extends fluid life a little great.
I ordered everything online from Benz of Stevens Creek for $300 + $15 shipping, so we'll see how quick I get it, but my QUESTION IS - is there a gasket/seal for the diff cover or what are you guys doing to seal that back up tight? Also would you expect I need new seals/plugs or anything other than fluid and the parts above?
Mercedes sells a sealant but it’s overpriced and really not that good. There’s a sealant you should be able to find at most auto stores for this, I apologize but can’t think of the name at the moment but it is black and works really well. You run a bead where the previous one was, put the cover on and finger tighten the bolts let it sit for 12 hours I believe and torque to spec
12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 22 X3M Brooklyn Grey, 08 BMW E93, 22 Ducati Desert Sled, John Deere 3R
Also if you get the Mercedes sealant (which worked fine for me) it is about 20 bucks I think - check the date on the tube, even in the tube it is only good for like 6 months or a year and it has an expiration date on it, so confirm it isn't an old tube that was laying around as it will be hard even sealed.
Mercedes sells a sealant but it’s overpriced and really not that good. There’s a sealant you should be able to find at most auto stores for this, I apologize but can’t think of the name at the moment but it is black and works really well. You run a bead where the previous one was, put the cover on and finger tighten the bolts let it sit for 12 hours I believe and torque to spec
maybe youre thinking of Permatex RTV or something along those lines? I guess any brand/type would work so I’m probably overthinking it.
Originally Posted by roadkillrob
Also if you get the Mercedes sealant (which worked fine for me) it is about 20 bucks I think - check the date on the tube, even in the tube it is only good for like 6 months or a year and it has an expiration date on it, so confirm it isn't an old tube that was laying around as it will be hard even sealed.
Sounds good, I’ll see if I can find the MB stuff somewhere for reasonable $. Not that it really matters, but Ive been trying to stay OEM with all my mods/maintenance so far (just row air box & LSD & normal fluids & filters) I will however be cutting out resonator and installing EC V7 in next few weeks so that should be some fun.
I did this with the oil pan of my Subaru. It's the PERMATEX grey.
I decided to not use the OEM and the grey was having some of the bond on a few hours but everyone recommended to not start the car for 24 hours.
I had to do the work twice.
The oil pan didn't seal 100% the first time.
After doing this the second time, I saw my mistake, then I forgot what it was (2012). So if I am taking the pan down again, I'll stick with OEM sealant.
Recently purchased a 13' coupe with the 471 LSD option. Looked under the vehicle this morning and I'm happy to report that it has the heat sink rear diff cover. I'm happy and one thing less to upgrade.
mb sealant is great on differentials. List is like $23.50 , technically after compression it can see fluid / wetness after 15 minutes but i like to wait an hour or so to be safe. Be sure to check the date as mentioned. There is a special gun to apply it, but it also comes with a way to squeeze it out which is probably why most people don't care for it.
I just did this install on mine and interestingly there were no threads on the cover for the rectifier to bolt onto. Had no trouble tapping it properly but it was a bit surprising. I wonder if they're all like that or if I got one made on Friday afternoon :P
And for the sticklers out there:
front bolt 65NM
rear bolts 170NM
(credit to Mort for the specs)
Can someone explain these torque specs to me a little further, as there are only 2 bolts listed by the OP as needed for the install? i know there are the 2 rectifier bolts that tap into the diff cover, are those the "rear bolts" listed here? And what is the "front bolt", the actual diff cover to housing bolts?
Thanks a lot
Last edited by Dr.Speedfellow; 12-11-2020 at 11:42 AM.
12 C63BS Magno Alanite Grey, 22 X3M Brooklyn Grey, 08 BMW E93, 22 Ducati Desert Sled, John Deere 3R
Originally Posted by Dr.Speedfellow
Can someone explain these torque specs to me a little further, as there are only 2 bolts listed by the OP as needed for the install? i know there are the 2 rectifier bolts that tap into the diff cover, are those the "rear bolts" listed here? And what is the "front bolt", the actual diff cover to housing bolts?
Thanks a lot
Those torques are the diff to diff mounts/frame of car specs.
Rear axle differential to front adapter - 65 Nm Bolt, rear axle differential to crossmember - 170 Nm
04-29-2017, 09:12 PM
