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I’m more than positive that I torqued then all down equally. I can be wrong tho. I also replaced the cam position sensor. Might be even worse after the switch.
My OEM set has arrived. After reading and watching a ton on this forum + plus videos from Tasos Moschatos I think I am gonna go ahead and replace my head bolts myself. The only thing is that I don’t know how good is my $20 AutoZone torque wrench. This is going to be my 3rd DIY on this car. Previously I had done front air strut replacement and intake manifold cleanup and gasket replacement. I am not a mechanic. All work had been done using the resources from this community.
Hi all,
I hope folks are still on this thread and can clarify few things for me.
1. How much coolant do I need for W211 E63? The kit I ordered from FCP euro included 1 large (5 liters, I think) jar. Is that all I need? Or do I need to add distilled water on top of that 5 liter of coolant?
2. What are torque specs for the head bolts themselves?
3. The PDF that OP posted indicates that Camshaft bearing cap/bearing bridge bolts should be torqued to 10 nm. However, in this video
Tasos says that you can use old bolts, but can't follow the torque specs because they are already stretched. Should I buy a brand new set then? What did the OP do?
4. In the PDFs we can see tightening sequence for camshafts - start from middle. What is the sequence for removing camshafts?
5. Again the PDF indicates that for the camshaft adjuster bolt we have to torque to 45 NM then 90 degrees. On this video on minute 5:45 it indicates 115 nm for these bolts. 45 and 115 are too different. Any thoughts?
Hi all,
I hope folks are still on this thread and can clarify few things for me.
1. How much coolant do I need for W211 E63? The kit I ordered from FCP euro included 1 large (5 liters, I think) jar. Is that all I need? Or do I need to add distilled water on top of that 5 liter of coolant?
You actually want deionized water as it is much purer than distilled. But yes you mix 50/50 with the coolant Mercedes sells. I don’t believe they offer a pre mixed but if they do that would be an option as well
I just did my head bolts on my w211 E63. I will post more on the process later, but for now, I have a problem. I examined the engine pulley at first. It had a part number on it, it had some numbers such as 3/4 or something like that, then it had 4-5 marks and the last mark had 40 on it. I put the pulley at this 40 degree mark.
Then I took the valve cover off on the driver side and was able to put all the timing tools in place: the back plate, holding device and timing tool. At this point the passenger side cover is not touched. I changed all the bolts one at a time.
Then I went on the passenger side and back plate couldn't be inserted. It was just a little off, maybe 1 mm. I had to rotate the engine another 360 degree and stopped at that same 40 degree. All the timing tools fell in their places now. I didn't re-check the driver side as I had only one timing tool. I replaced bolts on the passenger side and installed everything back.
I started the car and the car is shaking and I am getting flashing check engine light. Did I screw up timing? Would timing tools fit if I wasn't on 40 degree though? Also, I am not sure about the electrical connectors on cam adjuster covers. There are two: top and bottom. I wasn't sure which one was which. Would mixed up electrical connectors on the adjuster cover cause vibrations, or are they the same?
I didn't re-check the driver side as I had only one timing tool. I replaced bolts on the passenger side and installed everything back.
Whoops, you should have confirmed both sides are timed properly.
Originally Posted by Rovel
Did I screw up timing? Would timing tools fit if I wasn't on 40 degree though?
It sounds like one side is out of timing.
The timing tools are just designed for the crank to be at 40 degrees so the cams match where the crank is. If you have the tool installed with the CAs loose you can rotate the engine.
If you tightened the CAs with the crank at 40, removed the tools then moved the crank away from 40deg then no, the tools would no longer fit. Same goes if you tightened the CAs with the crank at 45deg, the tools would no longer fit with the rank at 40deg.
Whoops, you should have confirmed both sides are timed properly.
It sounds like one side is out of timing.
The timing tools are just designed for the crank to be at 40 degrees so the cams match where the crank is. If you have the tool installed with the CAs loose you can rotate the engine.
If you tightened the CAs with the crank at 40, removed the tools then moved the crank away from 40deg then no, the tools would no longer fit. Same goes if you tightened the CAs with the crank at 45deg, the tools would no longer fit with the rank at 40deg.
What are my options? How do I get it timed now? Also, would the order of adjuster cover connector make difference? Does it matter which one is top or bottom? I disconnected without marking them first.
My pulley has so many marks and numbers on it: 3-5, 440, 480 HZ. There are also bunch of unnumbered marks followed by the one that says 40 on it. That’s what I used - the 40 mark. Is that the one I should be using?
I set it to 40 and was able to insert cam locking tools on the driver side. However I couldn’t insert the plate on the passenger side as it was off by 1mm. I turned the engine 360 degrees twice and now was able to lock the cams.
What are my options? How do I get it timed now? Also, would the order of adjuster cover connector make difference? Does it matter which one is top or bottom? I disconnected without marking them first.
Yes it matters very much so. One is for exhaust the other for intake. That could be your problem.
Originally Posted by Rovel
That’s what I used - the 40 mark. Is that the one I should be using?
Yes
Originally Posted by Rovel
I set it to 40 and was able to insert cam locking tools on the driver side. However I couldn’t insert the plate on the passenger side as it was off by 1mm. I turned the engine 360 degrees twice and now was able to lock the cams.
What was off by 1mm? If the 40 mark was off by 1mm then you wouldn't have been able to fit the tools IF they were locked in when the crank was at 40.
Yes it matters very much so. One is for exhaust the other for intake. That could be your problem.
Yes
What was off by 1mm? If the 40 mark was off by 1mm then you wouldn't have been able to fit the tools IF they were locked in when the crank was at 40.
Just scanned the computer and getting P0300, P0305, P0308. These are all misfire codes. Does incorrect timing throw misfire codes or should I check my spark plugs and coils?
Just scanned the computer and getting P0300, P0305, P0308. These are all misfire codes. Does incorrect timing throw misfire codes or should I check my spark plugs and coils?
Yes, so would swapped intake/exhaust adjuster solenoid connectors.
If the timing is way off, you can do serious damage.
I think you may pushing your capabilities with these basic questions. Maybe someone else should have a look?
Yes, so would swapped intake/exhaust adjuster solenoid connectors.
If the timing is way off, you can do serious damage.
I think you may pushing your capabilities with these basic questions. Maybe someone else should have a look?
This is definitely the most advanced DIY I am doing. Someone over here who’s done this job on their car is helping me with advice. But his pulley looked totally different from mine. Can you verify that the 40 degree I am seeking in the picture above is the right one? What are all other marks for?
Alrighty folks - now that I've had my C63 for a mere two weeks, I figure I'd knock out the headbolt issue because why not.
I've been working on cars for quite some time and feel semi comfortable embarking on this project myself. As I work on this, I plan to take pictures of the process and ask for help as I'm sure I'll need some guidance here and there.
I do have some questions below that I'm hoping others who have done this before, can answer.
1) I read somewhere that you have to silicone all of the headbolts bolts that go into the head. If someone could walk me through exactly where to silicone, that would be great. On the actual bolt? Just the head? I'm sure it's simple, but just need clarification.
2) Are new cam bolts p/n 000000003236 (qty 32) needed? Not sure if these are one time use.
3) Setting the timing at 40 degrees - I've read this is done by turning over the engine until the pulley matches to the arrow on the block. Can you not just tell when it's at 40 degrees by looking at the cams since both the holes will be pointed upwards? Or is this just an approximation?
Also, if someone could review my parts list and let me know if I need anything else, that would be great.
M156 Updated Headbolt x20 156-016-07-69
Actuator Bolts x4 910105-012018
Timing Case Bolts x8 000000001150
27MM Short Socket for Crank
Mercedes Cam Timing Tool M156
Diamond Washers Cam Phaser x4 (need part number)
Engine Marker - Sharpie
Engine Lubricant - Lubriplate 105
Engine Camera to look at timing on pulling
Update thanks to Roadtalontsi on additional parts needed:
Front cylinder head/timing cover gaskets 2x 1560162221
Valve cover gaskets 1560162421 (i think the left and right are different part numbers i dont remember)
Spark plug gaskets for valve cover 8x 1560162121
Diamond Washers 4x 1560510275
Any other specialty Mercedes tools that I'll be needing?
Before going ahead and doing tappets, I want to open it up and take a look at how they look before dropping a grand on the M159 tappets. Worse comes to worse, I'll open up the head a couple of weekend down the road and install them as I'm sure it won't take me nearly as long to do the second time around.
Thank you!
New: 9/8/17 I've started a site (www.DIYTechnica.com) where you can purchase a step by step DIY for $10 should you want more info than what's found below.
If I do this myself, I will read the WIS.
Also, it seems that two sets of locking tools need to be used at the same time. This is to lock both sides at the same time, before touching any head bolts
Also, for every cam rotation, the crank rotates twice. So for getting to the right position of the cam, you would have to try two times the 40 mark on the crank and find the correct one.
Also, it seems that two sets of locking tools need to be used at the same time. This is to lock both sides at the same time, before touching any head bolts
i will do this
after i have disnantled the cover, drain the coolant … put 40 degree.
i will mark the position of all the components, check-in For both side if the timing tool fit. ( this should be)
then i will remove the adjusters, the bridge bolts as per the torque sequence in opposite i mean First 9-10 ….
then i will change one at a time the headbolts, when finish put Again anything as when i removed it
put and check on both sides if the timing tool fit.
then i will start to put the bridges and bridges bolts
as per the torque sequence one head at a time
i also will change the lifters and the plates in the adjusters
all the pieces are in the way… i should get it in 10 days from your Country
01-14-2020, 12:42 PM
