Brake cooling ducts and modified front bumper
https://hardbrakes.com/index.php?mai...MV948ln6umbd31
Just ordered these as I've got another set of pads going on Thursday night. I will be at the track Friday afternoon thru Sunday. There are two thicknesses here and I opted for the thicker (1mm). I will let you know my thoughts.




I had a proper vented hood on mine (vent near the front) which did all 3 marginally better than the spacers.
Edit: not the best pic but this vent location worked very well.
On my RX-7 as I mentioned with the rear of the hood raised (stock) it didn't help IATs or water temps and with a string test they were pulled into the engine bay at highway speeds.
Going to a vented hood made a difference on water temps. I never got around to ducting the larger SMIC I had under the hood. With the vented hood when I did a string test the rear vents had noticeable less air lifting them than the more forward ones. But the hood definitely helped cool things off faster.
I always wanted to do a V-mount with the radiator and intercooler and proper ducting, but never got around to doing that before I started driving my Subaru more often and the RX-7 just sits and collects dust.
On my RX-7 as I mentioned with the rear of the hood raised (stock) it didn't help IATs or water temps and with a string test they were pulled into the engine bay at highway speeds.
Going to a vented hood made a difference on water temps. I never got around to ducting the larger SMIC I had under the hood. With the vented hood when I did a string test the rear vents had noticeable less air lifting them than the more forward ones. But the hood definitely helped cool things off faster.
I always wanted to do a V-mount with the radiator and intercooler and proper ducting, but never got around to doing that before I started driving my Subaru more often and the RX-7 just sits and collects dust.

My old girl

93 RX7








I'm not buying the concept that I need these to be louvers to extract the heat. Will start these out as BS/507-shaped holes with mesh beneath. If that doesn't work out, will replace the mesh with the BS/507 vents.
Last edited by BLKROKT; Aug 30, 2016 at 02:11 PM.




Speaking of repainting hoods, the whole nose of mine needs a respray. It's rashed up pretty good.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




One of my bigger scratches is from one of B's rim bolts at VIR. At least that's my story.








Velox Motorsports Hood Louver FRS BRZ Tuft Test - YouTube
Agree you want to let the air out rather than force it in.








Also, the hot glue sticks didn't hold the mesh up for long. When Harry at Bergen installed the 44O kit, he reattached the mesh using some sort of bumper epoxy Bondo-like stuff. So far so good.




You know how on prefacelift, the slots in the rear taillights are for aerodynamics? I was looking at our chrysler 300 and it has some slits near the bottom back of the wheel arches. Maybe that could help with some stability (not necessarily cooling brakes) but using the airflow to keep the car grounded. Not sure what they did with the slits in the facelift version.




AFAIK it lets the air from the spinning tires exit the wheel wells more efficiently and creates some downforce. The BS has them in front also.
I just bought some new power tools and some sheet aluminum so I can make some front flics for starters. I might also take my Dremel to the rear bumper at some point, as with the increased fender and bumper width I could probably pull those off.




Pretty bold cutting up this stuff lol. I'd be afraid I'd screw it up haha.




This is an interesting discussion about cooling on the ATS-V. Sounds in places like the 440 package. Explanation down towards the end about the Caddy's hood heat extractors is relevant to this thread's discussion about engine compartment vents.




This is an interesting discussion about cooling on the ATS-V. Sounds in places like the 440 package. Explanation down towards the end about the Caddy's hood heat extractors is relevant to this thread's discussion about engine compartment vents.







