Jim, looks sharp. I'm waiting for your brake ducts.
Just ordered these as I've got another set of pads going on Thursday night. I will be at the track Friday afternoon thru Sunday. There are two thicknesses here and I opted for the thicker (1mm). I will let you know my thoughts.
The hood spacers work well for the S2000 platform, lowering both coolant, oil (if you have an external cooler) and IA temps. Unfortunately that's the only platform I have experience with.
I had a proper vented hood on mine (vent near the front) which did all 3 marginally better than the spacers.
Edit: not the best pic but this vent location worked very well.
Nice S2k.
On my RX-7 as I mentioned with the rear of the hood raised (stock) it didn't help IATs or water temps and with a string test they were pulled into the engine bay at highway speeds.
Going to a vented hood made a difference on water temps. I never got around to ducting the larger SMIC I had under the hood. With the vented hood when I did a string test the rear vents had noticeable less air lifting them than the more forward ones. But the hood definitely helped cool things off faster.
I always wanted to do a V-mount with the radiator and intercooler and proper ducting, but never got around to doing that before I started driving my Subaru more often and the RX-7 just sits and collects dust.
On my RX-7 as I mentioned with the rear of the hood raised (stock) it didn't help IATs or water temps and with a string test they were pulled into the engine bay at highway speeds.
Going to a vented hood made a difference on water temps. I never got around to ducting the larger SMIC I had under the hood. With the vented hood when I did a string test the rear vents had noticeable less air lifting them than the more forward ones. But the hood definitely helped cool things off faster.
I always wanted to do a V-mount with the radiator and intercooler and proper ducting, but never got around to doing that before I started driving my Subaru more often and the RX-7 just sits and collects dust.
Maybe it's something to do with how the engine is situated as well. Looks like there's more room for airflow under the S2000 hood.
Think I used jrcart's car to mock this one up LOL.
I'm not buying the concept that I need these to be louvers to extract the heat. Will start these out as BS/507-shaped holes with mesh beneath. If that doesn't work out, will replace the mesh with the BS/507 vents.
How are you thinking about trimming them out above the mesh at the actual metal of the hood?
I haven't gotten that far yet bud. I don't know, sand down the rough edge and paint it (my hood needs a respray badly)? Some sort of rubber weatherstripping?
That was the direction I was thinking about going. You know just as well as I do that eventually it will get through that as well. What's the process of removing films like that when it needs to be repainted again? Heat it up and peel it off, sand it off?
One of my bigger scratches is from one of B's rim bolts at VIR. At least that's my story.
I'm thinking maybe a matte black wrap would look nice. Probably cheaper than the hood, bumper and rear fenders I need paint on. And then some painters tape for the track so I can look like one of those idiots.
Agree you want to let the air out rather than force it in.
You know, I could be wrong here, but looking at that picture again it looks like the louver flaps stick up into the airstream over the hood just a little bit. That should create low pressure areas behind each louver, allowing heat to extract through them. Right? Then that's the way to go, and placement isn't really relevant. They can go over the headers, or I should just measure the highest temp area under there. Hmm.
I got like 4 16x48 sheets of this (http://www.customcargrills.com/Hexagon-Grill-Mesh.asp - I used the flat black 77% open stuff) because I figured that I'll ding them up at the track and just replace them when they start to look ratty. Plus I got some extra in case I wanted to trim out my diffuser or holes in my hood. Bought some tin snips and just cut them to size with about 1" extra all around. You'll want to bend and shape the edges over a wood block - it takes time to get it right. I found some good DIYs online, one was on Rennlist I believe.
Also, the hot glue sticks didn't hold the mesh up for long. When Harry at Bergen installed the 44O kit, he reattached the mesh using some sort of bumper epoxy Bondo-like stuff. So far so good.
You could use some polyurethane but it'll be a pita to get off.
You know how on prefacelift, the slots in the rear taillights are for aerodynamics? I was looking at our chrysler 300 and it has some slits near the bottom back of the wheel arches. Maybe that could help with some stability (not necessarily cooling brakes) but using the airflow to keep the car grounded. Not sure what they did with the slits in the facelift version.
AFAIK it lets the air from the spinning tires exit the wheel wells more efficiently and creates some downforce. The BS has them in front also.
I just bought some new power tools and some sheet aluminum so I can make some front flics for starters. I might also take my Dremel to the rear bumper at some point, as with the increased fender and bumper width I could probably pull those off.
You mean these?
AFAIK it lets the air from the spinning tires exit the wheel wells more efficiently and creates some downforce. The BS has them in front also.
Pretty much yea. The chrysler might have them for a different reason as they are on the inside of the wheel arches but there is no exit straight through the rear bumper, as it goes down under I think.
Pretty bold cutting up this stuff lol. I'd be afraid I'd screw it up haha.
This is an interesting discussion about cooling on the ATS-V. Sounds in places like the 440 package. Explanation down towards the end about the Caddy's hood heat extractors is relevant to this thread's discussion about engine compartment vents.
This is an interesting discussion about cooling on the ATS-V. Sounds in places like the 440 package. Explanation down towards the end about the Caddy's hood heat extractors is relevant to this thread's discussion about engine compartment vents.
That was an excellent article and there are lots of ideas there applicable to this thread - hood hole, how that horizontal cooler works (on my car it's the oil cooler for the 44O kit), the rear diff cooler plumbing, and the brake ducts. This is where basically where my car is going word-for-word. Still trying to figure out the hood holes though this is giving me another idea thanks....
FWIW, I don't think those (or the ones on the front) on the C63 BS are actually functional. I really hope I am wrong... can someone confirm? Are they actually open or blocked and just look like vents?
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
