Row Air Box Mod + aFe Pro Dry S Filter Idling Question
I did the Row Air Box mod from this thread and removed the charcoal filter and installed the aFe Pro Dry S filter instead of the OEM:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...r-box-mod.html
I have LTH installed with a tune, so I didn't really notice any difference in terms of power gain nor throttle response. To me they seem similar as before or maybe I just don't notice it. On a cold startup, it starts with higher rpm and then goes to low rpm which is normal and thats how the car was pre headers and tune installation. When I go for a ride in the city (normal driving, rpm is between 1k and 3k at most) and put the car in P or N, the rpm at idle goes up to 1k exactly and stays there. When I put the car in D, the rpm goes down to how it normally is.
I've never seen it idle that high before. And its only after driving the car. If I start up the car and let it idle, it'll idle in the low rpm range as usual.
Any thoughts? I'm thinking of putting back the stock filter and see if anything changes.
The good news is you can now do it the right way, go buy some ROW air boxes, they really aren't that expensive.
EDIT: did you cut off the top of the trumpet like in the thread you linked? If not, and all you did was get rid of the charcoal filters, then you should be fine. You might just have not gotten the air filter box tightened down correctly. If you cut off the top of the trumpet, like in the thread, then just buy some row air boxes.
Last edited by glennhl; Aug 29, 2016 at 10:45 PM.
Doesnt really bother me much but now that Ive logged as well it could be a 02 sensor cause on of them reads a little erratic.
Sorry to derail.
Back to programming.
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I got my ROW boxes today, installed them and fixed all the issues. The car runs smoother now vs. with the "US OEM to ROW conversion mod" it would kinda pause as if I'm braking if I take my foot off the gas pedal to keep the speed steady and idles higher after city or highway driving.
Also, it idles perfect after driving in the city. $350 well spent.
The OEM to ROW conversion mod listed above was a bad idea because the air flow area is different between US and ROW




The good news is you can now do it the right way, go buy some ROW air boxes, they really aren't that expensive.
EDIT: did you cut off the top of the trumpet like in the thread you linked? If not, and all you did was get rid of the charcoal filters, then you should be fine. You might just have not gotten the air filter box tightened down correctly. If you cut off the top of the trumpet, like in the thread, then just buy some row air boxes.
Are you talking about installing the ROW boxes that made your idle go nuts or modifying the US airbox to a "ROW" airbox?
I haven't had any issues with the ROW airboxes so far. I will be going to the dyno soon to see how everything is.
ROW boxes are OEM -- so those of you who think they are the cause of some CELs are incorrect there. As others have mentioned, the reason that CEL pops up is because you DIY'd it yourself and may have a tiny vacuum leak here or your MAFs weren't put back in, whatever... But at the end of the day ROW's are indeed OEM with plenty of R&D from our friends in Affalterbach.
I can't wait to see what happens to this board when I peak back in 2-3-4 years from now when these cars dip into the low 20's maybe even teens for high mileage ones.




...oh no
I meant modifying the US air box lid trumpet. It would have seemed to be a GREAT mod as the stock US horn leaves a LOT of restriction, but the MAFs just cannot cope with the new airflow(and I don't mean MORE airflow, I mean the way the air flows across them after modding the trumpets)....we tried to tune it in so that the MAFs were happy but nothing made it any better so the consensus was that it was the turbulence created that was creating the issue




Last edited by ///Bruce; Sep 5, 2016 at 04:45 PM. Reason: pic upside down






