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Row Air Box Mod + aFe Pro Dry S Filter Idling Question

Old Aug 29, 2016 | 07:14 PM
  #1  
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Row Air Box Mod + aFe Pro Dry S Filter Idling Question

Hey everyone,

I did the Row Air Box mod from this thread and removed the charcoal filter and installed the aFe Pro Dry S filter instead of the OEM:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...r-box-mod.html


I have LTH installed with a tune, so I didn't really notice any difference in terms of power gain nor throttle response. To me they seem similar as before or maybe I just don't notice it. On a cold startup, it starts with higher rpm and then goes to low rpm which is normal and thats how the car was pre headers and tune installation. When I go for a ride in the city (normal driving, rpm is between 1k and 3k at most) and put the car in P or N, the rpm at idle goes up to 1k exactly and stays there. When I put the car in D, the rpm goes down to how it normally is.

I've never seen it idle that high before. And its only after driving the car. If I start up the car and let it idle, it'll idle in the low rpm range as usual.

Any thoughts? I'm thinking of putting back the stock filter and see if anything changes.
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Old Aug 29, 2016 | 10:37 PM
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Sounds like you did not put everything back together exactly as it should. There is a vacuum leak somewhere most likely. Make sure everything is sealed properly
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Old Aug 29, 2016 | 10:43 PM
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If you read the complete thread, it looks like this is a bad mod. You get rid of the trumpet leading into the maf sensor and I'm guessing it just screws up the measurements. Normally you want good consistent air flow into the maf and this looks like it screws everything up.

The good news is you can now do it the right way, go buy some ROW air boxes, they really aren't that expensive.

EDIT: did you cut off the top of the trumpet like in the thread you linked? If not, and all you did was get rid of the charcoal filters, then you should be fine. You might just have not gotten the air filter box tightened down correctly. If you cut off the top of the trumpet, like in the thread, then just buy some row air boxes.

Last edited by glennhl; Aug 29, 2016 at 10:45 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 01:45 PM
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If you do get ROW boxes understand that a MAF code can occasionally be thrown and cause a CEL with no disruption to power just annoying light. I know this because it happens to me on very hot days.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ENV²
If you do get ROW boxes understand that a MAF code can occasionally be thrown and cause a CEL with no disruption to power just annoying light. I know this because it happens to me on very hot days.
Interesting, I never get throw codes even when it's 120F outside (I live in Phoenix). I've had the ROW boxes for a couple of years now.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 03:20 PM
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Yes, I cut off the top of the trumpet and it looks like that caused the air not to flow smoothly. gonna go ahead and order the ROW boxes. I thought they include a new MAF sensor with them so they don't throw a code or CEL light? I live in Portland, Oregon and it's never hot so that's good! The hottest is 90ish F on a few days of the summer.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 03:30 PM
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Could be the last time I flashed back to stock and then back to tuned I caused the issue for CEL. Never had a probelm until I cleaned the dry filters, tuned back to stock and back to V5 and weather got very hot.


Doesnt really bother me much but now that Ive logged as well it could be a 02 sensor cause on of them reads a little erratic.


Sorry to derail.


Back to programming.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 04:09 PM
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ROW boxes in-and-of-themselves DON'T throw MAF codes. Stop spreading misinformation dude. They're used all over the world as OEM equipment. If you're throwing MAF codes around the same time you installed ROW boxes, either a) you did it wrong, b) the MAF sensors are bad (if bought used), or c) totally coincidental, and something else is the culprit (over-oiled K&N's for example). It can be one of those three things only.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKROKT
ROW boxes in-and-of-themselves DON'T throw MAF codes. Stop spreading misinformation dude. They're used all over the world as OEM equipment. If you're throwing MAF codes around the same time you installed ROW boxes, either a) you did it wrong, b) the MAF sensors are bad (if bought used), or c) totally coincidental, and something else is the culprit (over-oiled K&N's for example). It can be one of those three things only.
Probably coincidental but I remember reaading a bunch about guys having charcoal deletes and RoW boxes and throwing a code. That was the reason I thought they were the culprit. I swapped MAFs with OEM ones recently. I think I just gotta reseat boxes yet again. If not. Meh. I just care that my power levels are still good.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by xKryptonite
Yes, I cut off the top of the trumpet and it looks like that caused the air not to flow smoothly. gonna go ahead and order the ROW boxes. I thought they include a new MAF sensor with them so they don't throw a code or CEL light? I live in Portland, Oregon and it's never hot so that's good! The hottest is 90ish F on a few days of the summer.
If you're interested, I'm selling my stock airboxes (removed at 5k miles) with the MAF sensors. PM if interested!
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Old Sep 2, 2016 | 02:50 AM
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Just an update:

I got my ROW boxes today, installed them and fixed all the issues. The car runs smoother now vs. with the "US OEM to ROW conversion mod" it would kinda pause as if I'm braking if I take my foot off the gas pedal to keep the speed steady and idles higher after city or highway driving.

Also, it idles perfect after driving in the city. $350 well spent.

The OEM to ROW conversion mod listed above was a bad idea because the air flow area is different between US and ROW
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Old Sep 3, 2016 | 11:17 PM
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ROW box has the trumpets, ghetto rigging the US box does not
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Old Sep 3, 2016 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by glennhl
If you read the complete thread, it looks like this is a bad mod. You get rid of the trumpet leading into the maf sensor and I'm guessing it just screws up the measurements. Normally you want good consistent air flow into the maf and this looks like it screws everything up.

The good news is you can now do it the right way, go buy some ROW air boxes, they really aren't that expensive.

EDIT: did you cut off the top of the trumpet like in the thread you linked? If not, and all you did was get rid of the charcoal filters, then you should be fine. You might just have not gotten the air filter box tightened down correctly. If you cut off the top of the trumpet, like in the thread, then just buy some row air boxes.
This is a BAD mod....I did this own my own and my idle went NUTS!!!! fortunately I was headed to the dyno 2days later and we ran it and could see that the MAFs were all over the place....put my other boxtops on and did another pull and everything was back to perfect
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Old Sep 4, 2016 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jptaylor
This is a BAD mod....I did this own my own and my idle went NUTS!!!! fortunately I was headed to the dyno 2days later and we ran it and could see that the MAFs were all over the place....put my other boxtops on and did another pull and everything was back to perfect

Are you talking about installing the ROW boxes that made your idle go nuts or modifying the US airbox to a "ROW" airbox?

I haven't had any issues with the ROW airboxes so far. I will be going to the dyno soon to see how everything is.
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Old Sep 4, 2016 | 12:34 AM
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I mean, obviously you don't need a lecture and figured it out by now but in the future stray away from these $5 mods. Good for you for picking up the ROW boxes and doing it the right way.

ROW boxes are OEM -- so those of you who think they are the cause of some CELs are incorrect there. As others have mentioned, the reason that CEL pops up is because you DIY'd it yourself and may have a tiny vacuum leak here or your MAFs weren't put back in, whatever... But at the end of the day ROW's are indeed OEM with plenty of R&D from our friends in Affalterbach.

I can't wait to see what happens to this board when I peak back in 2-3-4 years from now when these cars dip into the low 20's maybe even teens for high mileage ones.
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Old Sep 4, 2016 | 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by xKryptonite
Are you talking about installing the ROW boxes that made your idle go nuts or modifying the US airbox to a "ROW" airbox?

I haven't had any issues with the ROW airboxes so far. I will be going to the dyno soon to see how everything is.

...oh no

I meant modifying the US air box lid trumpet. It would have seemed to be a GREAT mod as the stock US horn leaves a LOT of restriction, but the MAFs just cannot cope with the new airflow(and I don't mean MORE airflow, I mean the way the air flows across them after modding the trumpets)....we tried to tune it in so that the MAFs were happy but nothing made it any better so the consensus was that it was the turbulence created that was creating the issue
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 04:44 PM
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To the OP, we live we learn. I'm not a big fan of quick fixes to get HP. I also managed to install the ROW boxes on my wife's AMG. Scared the crap out of me if something went wrong to her car. I'd never hear the end of it. However, I took my time and never looked back. No issues whatsoever.
Attached Thumbnails Row Air Box Mod + aFe Pro Dry S Filter Idling Question-img_1361.jpg  

Last edited by ///Bruce; Sep 5, 2016 at 04:45 PM. Reason: pic upside down
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 06:36 PM
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^You live in Australia?
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Old Sep 5, 2016 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by PurpleHeartAMG
^You live in Australia?
That was hilarious...And the water swirls backward down the bowl!!!

Last edited by jptaylor; Sep 5, 2016 at 07:07 PM.
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