LTFT 2 at 0% - sensor disabled?




Am I right in thinking that the O2 sensors have been disabled due to my V6 tune (so a cat delete can be done without fear of a CEL), or is there an issue with one of the sensors, if so does anybody know which one?




"Fuel trims - It is a little strange that long term fuel trim 2 is constantly at 0%. This could indicate some kind of issue with one of the o2 sensors."
I'm guessing it means one of the two LTFT sensors?

Hopefully will be on the dyno tomorrow. I'll ask if the guys can swap the exhaust sensors over to the opposite banks and then re-log to see if the reading moves to the other side...
That being said, if you have a tune, how crucial are the lambda sensors? If their reading is off, does it still affect the AFR? I'm guessing not, because regardless of their health, doesn't the tuner ultimately amend the base map values to satisfy the best suitable AFR at the time of writing the map?




The primary O2 tells the ECU if it's running rich or lean, allowing for adjustment. Generally, if there's no signal, the ECU will default to fully rich.
Last edited by BLKROKT; Feb 2, 2017 at 05:51 PM.
do your short term values adjust on the fly while driving?
what do the voltage reading show for both sensors?




Question though - if the ecu defaults to fully rich, wouldn't the V6 tune have essentially worked around that? I mean, we could see from the dyno plot that the AFR was a high 12 towards fuel cut etc.
Lucky for you, your car still made 440whp in spite of the dodgy sensor.
Question though - if the ecu defaults to fully rich, wouldn't the V6 tune have essentially worked around that? I mean, we could see from the dyno plot that the AFR was a high 12 towards fuel cut etc.
Interesting. I don't know anything else about this issue on my car tbh. I wish I did now. I have the logs, but not sure how to open them.
Lucky for you, your car still made 440whp in spite of the dodgy sensor.
I just left it as is since there are no codes and all readiness monitors passed.
what type of dyno are you going to and do you have a baseline? these cars make more power second and third pulls and I used 4th gear.
Last edited by skratch77; Feb 2, 2017 at 07:30 PM.
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https://www.enginebasics.com/EFI%20T...Loop%20o2.html
There are two sets, one per bank.
None should be zero, in stock operation.
The long can't be zero with the short moving around, unless you have PERFECT short trims (short moves exactly +-0.5 by example)
Normal readings, after warm up have the short term constantly going up and down, but with a trend, which the long term summarizes.
At one point the short term will stop trending and stabilize around a value. then that's the reading for the long term.
Like others posted, the main O2 sensors can't be disabled, the rear ones do influence the trims, there may be such a thing as tuning them out (such as the voltage readings get inputed manually resulting in a perfect long fuel trim, of zero). You would never tune out just one bank though.
At one point I was interested in failure modes of these. The ECU expects the readings to be outside a voltage interval before turning on the check engine. But I think I've read something about rear sensors going bad with zero voltage, but rare and could be a wiring fault.
Last edited by Vladds; Feb 3, 2017 at 07:26 AM.




https://www.enginebasics.com/EFI%20T...Loop%20o2.html
that's what I originally thought, because I thought the secondary sensor does cat efficiency, hence why i thought the LTFT was disabled in my tune or something...There are two sets, one per bank.
None should be zero, in stock operation.
The long can't be zero with the short moving around, unless you have PERFECT short trims (short moves exactly +-0.5 by example)
Normal readings, after warm up have the short term constantly going up and down, but with a trend, which the long term summarizes.
At one point the short term will stop trending and stabilize around a value. then that's the reading for the long term.
Like others posted, the main O2 sensors can't be disabled, the rear ones do influence the trims, there may be such a thing as tuning them out (such as the voltage readings get inputed manually resulting in a perfect long fuel trim, of zero). You would never tune out just one bank though.
At one point I was interested in failure modes of these. The ECU expects the readings to be outside a voltage interval before turning on the check engine. But I think I've read something about rear sensors going bad with zero voltage, but rare and could be a wiring fault.
I left my car at the workshop yesterday and asked them to price me up on a pair of Bosch primary sensors...might as well fit new primary sensors to rule out any sensor issues. Even if they don't make a difference, at least I'll have done some good preventative maintenance as the car is on 85k miles now anyway.
Updates to come on Monday now hopefully, assuming they can get the work done and have me tuned n logged on the dyno with Jerry etc
Having 0% on LTFT that never changes points to the LTFT being disabled, not the O2 sensor. Was your tuner mucking about trying to sort out your issue and forgot to reenable it?
You have so many issues with your car that never seem to get resolved. What are you doing? Bring your car to someone who knows what they're doing and it will probably be resolved in an hour or less. If you as a customer need to make suggestions to a shop they are likely clueless...







