Engine Oil Temp is too high? Goes up to 120c (248f)
#1
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Thread Starter
Engine Oil Temp is too high? Goes up to 120c (248f)
First of all, I did a lot of searching and finally am posting this thread. Please go easy.
Been noticing my engine oil temp gets a bit hot. Starting it up and idling it will get to around 102 - 105c. Driving normally in C mode stays around 105c - 108c. Driving in Manual with upshifts at 4k+ and downshifts at 3-4k gets the oil temp to 120c or over. Basically cruising around with 3k rpm and some heavy feet results in 115-120c. Is this normal? I live in Toronto and the weather is usually 20-25c when I drive.
Recently did oil change and put in 10L of Mobil1 0w40, which didnt help the oil temp go down. New oil filter, KN filters, and charcoal delete. Straight piped cats with EC v6. No mods.
Also, don't know if this is related but the mechanic pulled stored codes since they were last cleared. This code was stored:
"P1061 (1061) The load limit is active."
Did lots of searching and can't find anything on this.
Been noticing my engine oil temp gets a bit hot. Starting it up and idling it will get to around 102 - 105c. Driving normally in C mode stays around 105c - 108c. Driving in Manual with upshifts at 4k+ and downshifts at 3-4k gets the oil temp to 120c or over. Basically cruising around with 3k rpm and some heavy feet results in 115-120c. Is this normal? I live in Toronto and the weather is usually 20-25c when I drive.
Recently did oil change and put in 10L of Mobil1 0w40, which didnt help the oil temp go down. New oil filter, KN filters, and charcoal delete. Straight piped cats with EC v6. No mods.
Also, don't know if this is related but the mechanic pulled stored codes since they were last cleared. This code was stored:
"P1061 (1061) The load limit is active."
Did lots of searching and can't find anything on this.
Last edited by NotABaller; 07-24-2017 at 03:00 PM.
#3
Super Member
Notaballer: I am at the opposite end of the spectrum as far as driving style - I rarely use the manual shifting, and am a pretty easy driver most of the time, with only moderate use of throttle and only occasional WOT. But, I struggle to make sure that my engine oil temperature gets to 100 C (212 F) as many of my trips are pretty short (I live in a small town of 12,000 where the distance from one suburban extreme end of the town to the other is about 4-1/2 miles). I don't think I have ever seen the oil temperature much above 100 C.
You are shifting up and down at pretty high rpm. This will definitely cause your oil temperature to run higher than normal. It will also typically cause some oil consumption (my own C63 uses zero oil).
The higher oil temperature will also reduce engine oil life, so don't push the oil change intervals.
Jim G
You are shifting up and down at pretty high rpm. This will definitely cause your oil temperature to run higher than normal. It will also typically cause some oil consumption (my own C63 uses zero oil).
The higher oil temperature will also reduce engine oil life, so don't push the oil change intervals.
Jim G
#5
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Thread Starter
Yes, it came down fairly quickly. Was over 120c and I dropped it to 7th gear and cruised for a few mins and it was down to 110c. So I guess 120 is okay? Since I read that the cutoff is 269f which is about 131c. It's normal to be so close to limp mode on sporty M driving?
#6
Super Member
Yes, it came down fairly quickly. Was over 120c and I dropped it to 7th gear and cruised for a few mins and it was down to 110c. So I guess 120 is okay? Since I read that the cutoff is 269f which is about 131c. It's normal to be so close to limp mode on sporty M driving?
The C63 has the classic hot rod problem of big engine stuffed into a small body with a small and tightly enclosed engine compartment. Works ok for short burst uses of the power, but extended "spirited driving", and certainly any track time, quickly shows why the cooling kit and the hi-po brakes exist.
Jim G
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#8
Super Member
Thread Starter
Notaballer: I am at the opposite end of the spectrum as far as driving style - I rarely use the manual shifting, and am a pretty easy driver most of the time, with only moderate use of throttle and only occasional WOT. But, I struggle to make sure that my engine oil temperature gets to 100 C (212 F) as many of my trips are pretty short (I live in a small town of 12,000 where the distance from one suburban extreme end of the town to the other is about 4-1/2 miles). I don't think I have ever seen the oil temperature much above 100 C.
You are shifting up and down at pretty high rpm. This will definitely cause your oil temperature to run higher than normal. It will also typically cause some oil consumption (my own C63 uses zero oil).
The higher oil temperature will also reduce engine oil life, so don't push the oil change intervals.
Jim G
You are shifting up and down at pretty high rpm. This will definitely cause your oil temperature to run higher than normal. It will also typically cause some oil consumption (my own C63 uses zero oil).
The higher oil temperature will also reduce engine oil life, so don't push the oil change intervals.
Jim G
My car is never at 100c. I can drive it granny style in comfort mode and itll stabilize at 105 or even 110. I'm guessing this is okay since I was just in Victoria and the climate is entirely different. Its freaking cold there.
I think this is why that costly MB "extra cooling kit" exists.
The C63 has the classic hot rod problem of big engine stuffed into a small body with a small and tightly enclosed engine compartment. Works ok for short burst uses of the power, but extended "spirited driving", and certainly any track time, quickly shows why the cooling kit and the hi-po brakes exist.
Jim G
The C63 has the classic hot rod problem of big engine stuffed into a small body with a small and tightly enclosed engine compartment. Works ok for short burst uses of the power, but extended "spirited driving", and certainly any track time, quickly shows why the cooling kit and the hi-po brakes exist.
Jim G
That cooling kit is expensive, but not that bad. I called a few dealerships to ask for the price and I think they said it is CAD $2800. Labor is fairly easy I think. But combined with $4000 headers and around $1000 to install both, this hobby gets expensive.
Last edited by NotABaller; 07-24-2017 at 03:20 PM.
#10
Super Member
Mine definitely runs cooler than that. I'm normally between 100 and 110. And i get to 110 after some spirited driving.
I don't think i have ever seen 120. And that includes running 1/4 and 1/2 mile events.
I'm planning on doing a track day sometime soon, so we will see how the temperatures react to that.
I don't think i have ever seen 120. And that includes running 1/4 and 1/2 mile events.
I'm planning on doing a track day sometime soon, so we will see how the temperatures react to that.
#11
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Thread Starter
Mine definitely runs cooler than that. I'm normally between 100 and 110. And i get to 110 after some spirited driving.
I don't think i have ever seen 120. And that includes running 1/4 and 1/2 mile events.
I'm planning on doing a track day sometime soon, so we will see how the temperatures react to that.
I don't think i have ever seen 120. And that includes running 1/4 and 1/2 mile events.
I'm planning on doing a track day sometime soon, so we will see how the temperatures react to that.
#12
I run 96-100c normally, always in manual mode. When hot out, 30c it gets up about 105c. Never seen 120c unless racing at the road course...
This is 20-25c ambient. Weistec has the fan programmed to run the all the time but I'd assume that wouldn't help much unless slow or idling lots.crusing the airflow should be the same.
This is 20-25c ambient. Weistec has the fan programmed to run the all the time but I'd assume that wouldn't help much unless slow or idling lots.crusing the airflow should be the same.
#14
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#15
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#16
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
For reference, my summertime 44O temps vs stock cooling (F):
Cruising: 212 / 221
Manual w/ 4k shifts: 221 / 236
WOT pulls (1/4mi): 230 / 240
Track day (max): 256 / 286
High volume airflow through the coolers is critical for the 44O. At lower speeds (heavy stop-and-go traffic moving in 1st gear), it might actually be worse than stock because the pass side bumper helper fan for the oil cooler is removed. Decelerating from high speed (heavy braking + decreasing load engine condition + high airflow), water temps plummet and drag down oil with it. 44O shines best in high speed and accel/decel transitioning conditions.
Last edited by BLKROKT; 07-24-2017 at 05:56 PM.
#17
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Have you noticed the way this new layout takes away the part under our user name that says what we drive?
Thats a drag, cos in this discussion I was curious who is in a FL or PFL.
Maybe we need to change our sigs now.
Thats a drag, cos in this discussion I was curious who is in a FL or PFL.
Maybe we need to change our sigs now.
#18
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It can't. Mityvac is fine.
For reference, my summertime 44O temps vs stock cooling (F):
Cruising: 212 / 221
Manual w/ 4k shifts: 221 / 236
WOT pulls (1/4mi): 230 / 240
Track day (max): 256 / 286
High volume airflow through the coolers is critical for the 44O. At lower speeds (heavy stop-and-go traffic moving in 1st gear), it might actually be worse than stock because the pass side bumper helper fan for the oil cooler is removed. Decelerating from high speed (heavy braking + decreasing load engine condition + high airflow), water temps plummet and drag down oil with it. 44O shines best in high speed and accel/decel transitioning conditions.
For reference, my summertime 44O temps vs stock cooling (F):
Cruising: 212 / 221
Manual w/ 4k shifts: 221 / 236
WOT pulls (1/4mi): 230 / 240
Track day (max): 256 / 286
High volume airflow through the coolers is critical for the 44O. At lower speeds (heavy stop-and-go traffic moving in 1st gear), it might actually be worse than stock because the pass side bumper helper fan for the oil cooler is removed. Decelerating from high speed (heavy braking + decreasing load engine condition + high airflow), water temps plummet and drag down oil with it. 44O shines best in high speed and accel/decel transitioning conditions.
#19
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
I take it you no longer see limp mode anymore (or even close it seems) even on max WOT days at the track? Have you tested this on a particularly hot day at the track? Really curious to see if this is worth the cash as I find myself getting into the 240s here in SoCal just from spirited driving around town. I got up into the high 260s the other day doing a canyon drive and I wasn't going as hard as I could have been. Had to back off to let it cool so I didn't hit limp mode.
If you're not seeing limp mode now though, I don't see why you would get the 44O. It's only extended oil temps over 260 that are really bad.
#20
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The days I saw 286 last year, and 256 this year were on the same track in similar conditions (90F+). It's a huge difference. I had to shut down after 2 laps last year, and the car was never able to recover enough to get even another lap in. This year I went hard for 15 laps, and 256 was the highest I saw.
If you're not seeing limp mode now though, I don't see why you would get the 44O. It's only extended oil temps over 260 that are really bad.
If you're not seeing limp mode now though, I don't see why you would get the 44O. It's only extended oil temps over 260 that are really bad.
Thanks for the info.
#21
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Thread Starter
Perhaps it was because of high humidity during the day + stagnant air from local traffic. Did some more driving at night and it seems to peak at low 110s, which I'm comfortable with but I think it's still a bit high. I guess no reason to chase low temps as long as I'm well below limp mode. Tracking it, at least through the first lap, should be a different story. I suspect I'll need 44o to make it through the first lap with the way things are going.
#23
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the air diverter plate that i made to stop air pushing up and over the radiator and forcing it to go through the core a few years ago and which others have made and installed as well actually did make a noticeable difference in cooling. You can find the thread pretty easy on here
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#24
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the air diverter plate that i made to stop air pushing up and over the radiator and forcing it to go through the core a few years ago and which others have made and installed as well actually did make a noticeable difference in cooling. You can find the thread pretty easy on here
It can be found with a search of "radiator blockoff plate", I think the thread is called "Keeping Your Cool".
EDIT: Thread here: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ping+Your+Cool
Last edited by BLKROKT; 07-25-2017 at 11:40 AM.
#25
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Thread Starter
the air diverter plate that i made to stop air pushing up and over the radiator and forcing it to go through the core a few years ago and which others have made and installed as well actually did make a noticeable difference in cooling. You can find the thread pretty easy on here
Glad to see that the cooling packing is paying off for BLKROKT.