Burn smell/rotten egg smell
11-20-2017, 11:08 PM
#1
Burn smell/rotten egg smell
i have experiencing some burn smell or maybe rotten egg smell whenever i stomp on the gas on high revs. The smell almost comes instanly but i could never detect it when im out of the car, even right after driving it hard.
i dont see smoke and no smell at normal driving.
anyone experiencing something like this?
i read it could be the cat but im not sure
i dont see smoke and no smell at normal driving.
anyone experiencing something like this?
i read it could be the cat but im not sure
11-21-2017, 12:15 PM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Several people, including me found the head bolts for the intake manifold to be loose. With those loose, unmetered air gets drawn in and due to improper AFR, you can get rotten egg smell from the converters.
You need to know the tightening torque for these aluminum bolts, so that you don't break them.
My factory bolts had an amount of elongation which was smaller than what it should be if they had been tightened properly. To me, this means that the techs (some of them), don't tighten properly on the line.
You need to know the tightening torque for these aluminum bolts, so that you don't break them.
My factory bolts had an amount of elongation which was smaller than what it should be if they had been tightened properly. To me, this means that the techs (some of them), don't tighten properly on the line.
Last edited by Vladds; 11-22-2017 at 07:08 AM.
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05-05-2019, 05:51 PM
#11
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2016 GTs, 2014 C63 AMG and 2014 C350 Sport (wife's car, she thinks it's an AMG - shhhhhh)
Bumping this up because I have the same thing. It never happens on the rare occasion I am in "C" mode. But whenever I use S+ or M, I get that rotten egg smell. It's worse outside the car than in.
I just had my 30,000 mile service. This may be a stupid question but don't they check the intake bolts during their 5,000 point inspection? - lol
I just had my 30,000 mile service. This may be a stupid question but don't they check the intake bolts during their 5,000 point inspection? - lol
05-05-2019, 06:44 PM
#12
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2016 GTs, 2014 C63 AMG and 2014 C350 Sport (wife's car, she thinks it's an AMG - shhhhhh)
Several people, including me found the head bolts for the intake manifold to be loose. With those loose, unmetered air gets drawn in and due to improper AFR, you can get rotten egg smell from the converters.
You need to know the tightening torque for these aluminum bolts, so that you don't break them.
My factory bolts had an amount of elongation which was smaller than what it should be if they had been tightened properly. To me, this means that the techs (some of them), don't tighten properly on the line.
You need to know the tightening torque for these aluminum bolts, so that you don't break them.
My factory bolts had an amount of elongation which was smaller than what it should be if they had been tightened properly. To me, this means that the techs (some of them), don't tighten properly on the line.
05-06-2019, 01:54 PM
#13
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
The Intake Manifold torque procedure is a three stage process. The bolts are aluminum, torque to yield and cannot be re-torqued. If you check them and they are loose you should replace them all. You will need the torque sequence as well.
Stage one: torque to 10Nm
Stage two: turn 90*
Stage three: turn 10*
Stage one: torque to 10Nm
Stage two: turn 90*
Stage three: turn 10*
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Bonesxxx (05-06-2019)
05-06-2019, 01:59 PM
#14
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2016 GTs, 2014 C63 AMG and 2014 C350 Sport (wife's car, she thinks it's an AMG - shhhhhh)
The Intake Manifold torque procedure is a three stage process. The bolts are aluminum, torque to yield and cannot be re-torqued. If you check them and they are loose you should replace them all. You will need the torque sequence as well.
Stage one: torque to 10Nm
Stage two: turn 90*
Stage three: turn 10*
Stage one: torque to 10Nm
Stage two: turn 90*
Stage three: turn 10*
