Ya.. I know what you mean. I am in Tampa, FL. I searched everywhere and there seems to be very limited choice of tuners. The one who will do it will charger around 2k or more for the customer tune. Euro Charge is in Orlando which is 1 hour away. I don't think I can put the supercharger on and drive there for a tune. And they want 1.8k just to install the Supercharger. My car has no mod at all and I drive aggressively. ESS Supercharger and the header will be the only mods I will do.

I saw someone saying they can have ESS send their tune to work with HP Tuner, I want to know if that is true and will ESS do it. I believe it will be the best way of going about this. Get the vendor tune then drive to a tuner and dyno tune it. If it sound confusing because I am confused and not sure what are the tuning options for Mercedes. Coming from Honda world, tuning is a lot easier and less stress.

 

I had a few mods and I sent my ECU to ESS.

Perhaps later on I will look at seeing if they can setup a remote tuning session to dial it in and find some missing power, but for now, the ESS tune works great.

I have Row airboxes with AFE filters and Agency Power headers.

 

Sounds like that is the most effective way to go. What kind of mail method did you sent to them? Do they need the return postage paid? How long does it take to ship and wait for them to mail it back?

 

Just make sure to let them know what mods you have, they can make certain allowances for your tune.

I used expressed registered and insured so I could track it right to the source. I can't recall but I believe they match your shipping method. Return was roughly 2 weeks I believe.

 

funny seeing you here

 

So just to consolidate some of my threads/comments. I am now running stock exhaust manifolds, gutted primary cats and mikes power pipe as a secondary cat delete with the factory resonator and mufflers. No drone at all and if you are light with your foot it actually sounds stock due to no headers. I had custom made up some downpipes with 200 cell race cats in the stock primary position and melted them out my tailpipes. I think with headers and the race cats positioned after the headers, more like a secondary cat position almost, you would be ok. If I had to do over, I would definitely still get the system but would pay to have Eurocharged or ESS both install and tune ($1800 is a good price for an install), so nobody plays the blame game if you have issues. My car took almost 2 years to get working perfectly after the s/c install for some still unknown, annoying, hair-pulling reason, I was getting limp mode at a certain part of the throttle and certain speed. ESS though it was shop's install or the shop's dyno tune (HP Tuners) or an engine issue. I had ROW boxes on it, but for me the stock ones were giving more consistent airflow readings so I've switched back. We pulled the ECU and sent it back to ESS for a reflash of their "canned" tune and car still had the issue. (However, most everyone else I have talked to did really well with the ESS base tune). I have the smaller 93 octane 7 or 8 psi pulley. We chased the problem mechanically for several months at the AMG dealer checking injectors / compression / install / camshaft adjusters/ ,etc (luckily I have a friend there who worked on the car on his down time) . ESS did offer to fix it if I wanted to get the car to their shop in AZ, which I considered. Finally drove it up to Eurocharged Ohio (since I live so far from ESS) who tuned it ($2500) and it has been running perfect since. I have heard good things about 86tuned as well since then. Car has been to a HPDE class and was a beast, no issues (except running out of gas before the last session, even though I started full ). AFRs stay consistent. Doesn't seem to run water temp hotter with the kit, My transmission (MCT) was fine at the track, no heat induced limp mode) but I have a 44O kit installed and the Weistec extra capacity trans pan. Stock Tranny is hanging in there. Installed a wavetrac LSD and the finned rear diff case. Car has a Wiestec catch can that during the summer stays fairly empty but during colder months collects a lot of goo. I would highly recommend a catch can. on a C63 (wish the Weistec one you could check the level without unscrewing the bottom of the can) I am also running a Gates HD belt, I had a RPM on there and ended up snapping off the routing pulley that comes with the ESS kit - they sent another one right away. - and also spun a stock pulley.. The RPM belts need an adjustable tensioner or one that is set lighter than normal to make up for the lack of belt stretch. The stock c63 was fast (mine was a PP car to start) , but this thing is plain ridiculous

 

I can tell you this upfront and first hand...every single supercharged vehicle we have tuned has a completely different map. many of these completely different maps include power delivery maps which can cause limp mode and not a single one of our customers has been able to utilize even a close to similar map.

you will not be able to receive the performance you expect from any "shelf tune" or any blanket tuner who doesn't literally spent hours building your tune from scratch. also, those tuners that offer "custom" tunes which they ask you to rent out a dyno. that isn't a custom tune...not even close. laughable literally a joke if you ask me. those boys have been taking you all for a ride for years.

 

Hi Blackbenzz,

I know this is a pretty old post but can you say what fuel injectors you are or were running with the ESS setup? (550cc) - Bosch 0280158117

Regards

EDA

 

I used the 550cc injectors that came with the kit. I think originally with the lower psi pulley they used the original injectors but the 550 come with it now.

 

Thanks a million Kavik,

Are Bosch 0280158117 the injectors that came with the kit? If not do you remember the part number?

I'm not quite clear on where to pick up power from for the coolant pump. It looks like it should pickup power from a location just before the green relay in the front fuse box.

Should the wire running to the pump be grounded in two places or just one?

 

They wired mine to a relay in the main hood fuse box but did it so that it comes on with the forst acc position and not engine start which is a pain. If I'm working on the radio or something electrical it runs constantly and drains the heck out of the battery unless I pull the fuse. I'm out of town this week or I'd send you a picture of which NOT to tap. I know it was on right (pass side of box) about in the middle near where the grommet is and the wires exit into the engine compartment. They used to have a set of install instructions on the website.