C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015

URGENT HELP NEEDED: RED BATTERY LIGHT ON W204 C63 AMG

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Old 07-12-2018, 03:46 PM
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2009 C63 AMG
Exclamation URGENT HELP NEEDED: RED BATTERY LIGHT ON W204 C63 AMG

Hello MBWorld

I am struggling with a red battery light issue on my 2009 W204 C63 AMG.

Background: I went to a local shop to get help in installing my long tube headers. To install LTH, we had to remove the alternator and one of the engine mount. Anyways, after installing the LTH while driving home I got red battery light, also an error for Auto Lamp Function Inoperative and luckily without further hassle I reached home. Later after two or three trips, I got battery light again and BTW continue to get Auto Lamp Function Inoperative light one each trip. So on that third trip the battery light came on and I went into limp in, car cut all the electrical like ABS, EPS and Radio. I barely reached home.

So I went to the local MB guy to check stuff on the car. He used STAR diagnostic equipment to check the whole electrical system. I even asked hi to check belt tension as we removed alternator. So after checking with STAR both battery and alternator are looking good. Can you guys suggest what shall I do next.

Regards
Jay

Old 07-12-2018, 04:57 PM
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Maybe you just need a new battery
Old 07-12-2018, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Adi-Benz
Maybe you just need a new battery
i already checked the battery. Battery is good.
Old 07-12-2018, 07:04 PM
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Maybe it was a loose connector after your shop reinstalled your alternator.
Old 07-12-2018, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by m a x i m u s
Maybe it was a loose connector after your shop reinstalled your alternator.
yeah I checked that too and unfortunately it’s good.
Old 07-12-2018, 09:21 PM
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There's another piece that can go bad related to the alternator. I am blanking on what it's called, but maybe someone else can chime in.
Old 07-12-2018, 09:22 PM
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by m a x i m u s
There's another piece that can go bad related to the alternator. I am blanking on what it's called, but maybe someone else can chime in.
Its called the voltage regulator. Funny thing is that the STAR diagnostics tool from MB tells that the Alternator and battery are both good so I am assuming the voltage regulator is good as well.
Old 07-13-2018, 12:19 AM
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The alternator may be on it's way out if it's not a bad voltage regulator. I just had to replace mine at 117,000km. The bearings in the alternator had gone bad and it was making a somewhat loud whine. Same display message and symptoms as you. I just made it to my workshop when the car was so low on battery that the instrument cluster stopped working
Old 07-13-2018, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Funkwagen
The alternator may be on it's way out if it's not a bad voltage regulator. I just had to replace mine at 117,000km. The bearings in the alternator had gone bad and it was making a somewhat loud whine. Same display message and symptoms as you. I just made it to my workshop when the car was so low on battery that the instrument cluster stopped working
Did you car throw any codes? I used MB STAR diagnostic check the alternator and it came out good. Did you also get a alternator test out?
Old 07-13-2018, 07:03 AM
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Think methodically. This happened right after major work in the engine compartment. Your failure is logically connected to that work. Examine everything that was removed/replaced and you will probably find your problem. I will guess a loose ground connection at the alternator.
Old 07-13-2018, 07:24 AM
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JS,

There is a mode within the dashboard to check voltage and current. For my W212 2014 its the same method to access Dyno mode.

0:52 minutes shows voltage and current

LEGEND :
UB = Voltage
IB = Current, amperage

A normal operating alternator, at idle will read UB/Voltage as 14.xx very fast and IB/current as over 10 amps when engine just started.
When engine running, if voltage lower than 12.7V and current showing minus sign, that means your alternator is not charging.

The red battery light icon, usually means battery not being charged by alternator.

This method is a way to test without using stand alone voltage meter and current clamp.

While engine is running, in NEUTRAL, throttle up the engine a few times to create a shake, see if whatever loose connection can be triggered , you will see voltage drop below 12.7 and current with a minus sign if whatever loose connection occurs again.

Try the dashboard voltage/current menu and let me know what are the numbers.

Good luck

Last edited by S-Prihadi; 07-13-2018 at 07:28 AM.
Old 07-13-2018, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
JS,

There is a mode within the dashboard to check voltage and current. For my W212 2014 its the same method to access Dyno mode.

0:52 minutes shows voltage and current
https://youtu.be/Dr7S7TGDw7w

LEGEND :
UB = Voltage
IB = Current, amperage

A normal operating alternator, at idle will read UB/Voltage as 14.xx very fast and IB/current as over 10 amps when engine just started.
When engine running, if voltage lower than 12.7V and current showing minus sign, that means your alternator is not charging.

The red battery light icon, usually means battery not being charged by alternator.

This method is a way to test without using stand alone voltage meter and current clamp.

While engine is running, in NEUTRAL, throttle up the engine a few times to create a shake, see if whatever loose connection can be triggered , you will see voltage drop below 12.7 and current with a minus sign if whatever loose connection occurs again.

Try the dashboard voltage/current menu and let me know what are the numbers.

Good luck
Thanks I will check as you told. I was trusting MB star too results when it says alternator and battery is good. I think I should also check your way.
Old 07-15-2018, 09:28 PM
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check the battery terminals - possibly damaged the sensor on the ground cable? Lots to go wrong. So you took it to your MB guy and he tested stuff said alternator and battery are good but offered no solution or further diagnosis? Sounds like a clown. It has fault codes if those messages are popping up in the cluster. The auto headlamps is likely from the rain/light sensor. Have you had a windshield replaced or maybe get a rock chip in the top center area?
Old 10-05-2019, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by S-Prihadi
JS,

There is a mode within the dashboard to check voltage and current. For my W212 2014 its the same method to access Dyno mode.

0:52 minutes shows voltage and current
https://youtu.be/Dr7S7TGDw7w

LEGEND :
UB = Voltage
IB = Current, amperage

A normal operating alternator, at idle will read UB/Voltage as 14.xx very fast and IB/current as over 10 amps when engine just started.
When engine running, if voltage lower than 12.7V and current showing minus sign, that means your alternator is not charging.

The red battery light icon, usually means battery not being charged by alternator.

This method is a way to test without using stand alone voltage meter and current clamp.

While engine is running, in NEUTRAL, throttle up the engine a few times to create a shake, see if whatever loose connection can be triggered , you will see voltage drop below 12.7 and current with a minus sign if whatever loose connection occurs again.

Try the dashboard voltage/current menu and let me know what are the numbers.

Good luck

I have negative current and low voltage in neutral but good UB/IB in reverse, anyone know what my issue is?
Old 10-06-2019, 12:08 AM
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2012 C63 Coupe
New battery fixed it
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