barrysuperhawk

Ok, I sold my C32 AMG several years ago, and have put 200k miles on the replacement (truck) but now I have the itch to get back into a new(er) AMG, There happens to be a 2011 for sale in my town but it is at one of THOSE used car dealers ( you know, the ones that strive to exceed all of the worst stereotypes). There is no way I am going to trust anything this dealer says, but it's still a C63 AMG that I don't have to go to Chicago for...

Sooooo I need a cheat sheet on what to look for and what to look out for. I know the obvious answer is "read the forums new guy!!" and I get it, but there is so much going on with buying an 8 year old AMG that I am worried I might miss something critical and "oops, you now need to spend $10k to fix this" so please take pity on me.

G_Money

I'd spend the extra cheddar and get a facelift car if you are wanting ultimate reliability tbqh

Adi-Benz

I'm almost maybe nearby? You have a link?

NotABaller

Just get a 2012 or newer. Updated styling, tranny, interior, headbolts (search forum for this issue - only affects 2011 and prior) , etc



its well worth it

deadlyvt

2011 should be clear on the headbolts it was 2010 and older.

barrysuperhawk

You make a compelling point, but the 2011 is in my hometown, so I can go to it and really look at it as opposed to having to travel just to see the car or [gasp] buy it from the internet. There is also the matter of price. Conceptually I would rather buy an older car for cheaper than a newer car for more $$.

G_Money

If proximity is your biggest determining factor then you are really pigeonholing yourself... I bought my last 2 C63s from out of state because all the cars close to me were losers.

And the extra money for a 2011.5+.. Well what's piece of mind worth? Knowing that you aren't going to have to spend a few grand on head bolts or whatever seems worth it to me personally. But maybe you're in a position to do that type of job yourself, I dunno.

deadlyvt

Headbolts were updated on the 2011 models so you won’t be doing them on a 2011 either...

claudioagmfilho

Idler pulleys

Headbolts

Lifters

Gaskets

Thermostat

PCV

Upper oil pan seal

Engine mounts

ESP module

Ignition coils

Oh and rear tires dont last long period.




These are typically what I've been finding! However with your low milage some of the issues wont arise for many more miles, and some may never become a issue... from what I've seen and heard??? Also the bottom end is bullet proof from what I've heard... I look at it as everything is a ticking time bomb just depends when the timer goes off.. with mine its basically second nature to open the hood and check things regularly!!

barrysuperhawk

That is exactly the position that I am in...almost. I don't know if it is a loser or not yet, and just because I am pretty sure that the dealer is a dirt ball, does not automatically disqualify the car. If I decide the car is junk, I certainly can expand my search then.

Looking at that list, and reading the internet, many of those things might be difficult to check out at the car lot. (I'm gonna have to look up more YouTube videos) .

Would an actual dealer willing or be able to tell me things like the headbolts with the vin? I did run the vin decoder on here, but obviously that doesn't include service records. I guess I should start looking for a carfax etc too.

deadlyvt

Yes your vin is tied to the engine number and from that you can figure out what headbolts are in it.... all 2011s have the updated headbolts same as 2012+

Adi-Benz

No, NOT all 2011's. MID 2011 and later, not early.

BLKROKT

Restricting yourself to buying from a loser dealer because they’re close doesn’t make a lot of sense. For one, you’re likely to look past issues or accept compromises if this is the only car in your defined range. You also destroy your negotiating power and are likely to pay more because this is the only car you’re willing to go see. And finally, if they’re shady what happens when something goes wrong post-purchase. Don’t buy this car.

Go look at the car and drive it so you can be familiar with how they drive etc. If you end up liking the car, great, now go shop around. Traveling to another state to purchase isn’t a big deal (I flew sight-unseen across the country because the dealer had an impeccable reputation), and you’re extremely likely to find both better deals and cars if you expand the area of your search. These cars are getting old, and while they’re built pretty tough, many of them also live tough lives. A used car dealer “like that” most likely got a beat C63 at auction. It will pay off down the road to do your homework and get the absolute best example you can afford, regardless of location.

barrysuperhawk

I am not RESTRICTED at all, it just seems prudent to vet the closest one first. .The next closest ones are in Chicago, at the moment. If this one is a solid car, then it doesn't matter that it was close. If its junk then it still doesn't matter if it was close. If I find problems with this one, but they are problems that I am comfortable dealing with, then cool.. this will be my 4th vehicle after all, so its not critical to be 100% daily driver from the start...

I drove a C63 AMG coupe a month or so ago, and it was good, but I decided that I would rather have 4 doors.

Ok, here it is. If anyone wants to help me and look it up, I would appreciate it. Maybe someone with a spare carfax they are dying to use...
WDDGF7HB1BF539180

BLKROKT

Also, I’d look at ones from salt-free locations first. A 2011 from your part of the country has spent 10yrs on salted snowy roads already. You may not think that’s a big deal, but you buy extended life when you get a car from a region without any of that.

Edit: Just looked at your car. For starters, that’s 100% been modified. Nobody is doing a wrap, wheels, trim, carbon bits, spoiler, “performance exhaust” and who knows what else without at the very least an ECU tune. Have someone that knows these cars look at that. Cheap modified 10yr old C63 for sale by a dodgy used car lot screams run to me.

You don’t want to be hit with a $10k “oops”? Well this is exactly the sort of car profile that tends to give their next owner a $10k surprise.

(p.s. there’s also an error lit up on the dash in the idling pic)

barrysuperhawk

Yes, I see the low tire alert, and I thought the red one was a seatbelt warning. The tires don't match, but that isn't really a shocker. I am not expecting an 8 year old car to be perfect, but I want to be as well informed as possible when I go in there.

I actually think that I like the wrap. I probably would not pay $$ myself to have it done, but I can appreciate it. I am certainly not a purist by any stretch, so the mods don't concern me too much. I will look for bubbles and other signs of rust.

Overboard77

I have a '12 with 61,000 that I will be selling in southern mn. Service plan B just done at the dealer and new tires.

NotABaller

Personally, i do not think its a good deal for that year/mileage

ZephyrAMG

I love how people chime in as if the 2008-2011 C63s have cancer or something. LOL

Here is my input as a near 10 year owner of a 2010.

1. The 2 cars are essentially the same build and quality. The two have differences that are slight. They are essentially the same car. Note I said essentially.
2. With the face lift you are getting a new front and rear bumper design, new dash. This new tech may be a personal preference. Many like the hiding, flip up nav. of the PreFL looks sleek when put away and doesn't glare at you.
3. Many like the shape ad design of the 2008-2011 front bumper. I know I did and wasn't partial to the "softened" facelift and DRLs. This is just a preference. I think the more pronounced hood design of the PreFL and the front bumper.
4. The transmission in the prePL was stout, albeit was not an MCT. But it handles a lot of torque and does not have the frequent overheating, limp mode issues. The torque converter transmission of the PreFL is not as jerky and skipping.
5. The headbolts can be changed and you are back to being the same as a 2012-2014. This is not even a big deal.
6. With the FL you get things like blind spot assist and better blue tooth. Kind of cool but not a deal breaker. Get a tunein and you are set as far as blue tooth. No biggie.

But to say that you are "better off getting a face lift car" isn't necessarily true. The PrePL is actually a stouter car in many ways. Most of the difference is just a design preference. The two cars are essentially the same.

barrysuperhawk

Ok, dealer sent me the carfax, and there are some concerns. 2 accidents 5 owners but it was a Florida and Texas car, so should not have rust issues. Both accidents are listed as minor- under moderate damage, one in front, one rear.

I looked it up on Auto auction and got no hits.

So I guess I need to look really hard at the bodywork repairs to make sure that the trunk or the hood doesn't fall off under acceleration.

BLKROKT

It’s hilarious that you’re talking yourself into this problem car

NotABaller

Dude, avoid this car like the plague

Boughtittwice

Pass on this car - frame/structural on AutoCheck report.

hyperion667

Bonesxxx

The guys have all explained it to you... they just can't understand it for you.

If you decide to move forward, I'd at least take it to an MB dealer for a pre-purchase inspection. If the selling dealer won't allow it, then you know all this ^^^^^ has been good advice.