Fuel Trim Range
#1
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Fuel Trim Range
What is the proper fuel trim for the M156?
I plugged in my cheap BT scanner and got a fuel trim level of -95 for Bank 1 and 1 for Bank 2. I confirmed this with a mechanic level scan tool that I borrowed from a friend
No CEL is on.
Now my reason for checking this, I hear a light plastic on plastic or rubber on rubber tick/knock at idle. The sound occurs regardless of the engine temp, and disappears if the accelerator pedal is depressed at all. The sound sometimes goes away if I fully depress the brakes. The sound isn’t audible in the engine bay only the cabin, and there are some days where the sound never occurs.
I plugged in my cheap BT scanner and got a fuel trim level of -95 for Bank 1 and 1 for Bank 2. I confirmed this with a mechanic level scan tool that I borrowed from a friend
No CEL is on.
Now my reason for checking this, I hear a light plastic on plastic or rubber on rubber tick/knock at idle. The sound occurs regardless of the engine temp, and disappears if the accelerator pedal is depressed at all. The sound sometimes goes away if I fully depress the brakes. The sound isn’t audible in the engine bay only the cabin, and there are some days where the sound never occurs.
#2
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Proper trim is 0. Most running ROWs or Carbonio see -20’ish. You are way off. You have a leak.
#3
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Can I go to a bigger Injector size without a tune/is it worth it?
#4
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What injectors did you put in there? you are running really rich.
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I was thinking massive post-MAF air leak, not injectors
#7
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2012 C63 P31 Sedan
That's what I thought at first, but a post MAF air leak should cause a high positive fuel trim, and he's saying it's negative. I also just noticed that the issue is just on one bank. It actually might be an injector stuck open, or a bad O2 sensor.
EDIT: ....or a bad MAF. You should be able to check the air flow readings on both banks with your scan tool. They should read similar voltage at idle if both MAFs are in good working order.
EDIT: ....or a bad MAF. You should be able to check the air flow readings on both banks with your scan tool. They should read similar voltage at idle if both MAFs are in good working order.
Last edited by BalanBro; 01-31-2020 at 02:00 PM.
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#8
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The ECU thinks there's way too much fuel on that bank so it's trying to remove fuel with the negative trim.
It either actually has too much fuel or not enough air. Or whatever is reading the output thinks that.
It either actually has too much fuel or not enough air. Or whatever is reading the output thinks that.
#9
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That's what I thought at first, but a post MAF air leak should cause a high positive fuel trim, and he's saying it's negative. I also just noticed that the issue is just on one bank. It actually might be an injector stuck open, or a bad O2 sensor.
EDIT: ....or a bad MAF. You should be able to check the air flow readings on both banks with your scan tool. They should read similar voltage at idle if both MAFs are in good working order.
EDIT: ....or a bad MAF. You should be able to check the air flow readings on both banks with your scan tool. They should read similar voltage at idle if both MAFs are in good working order.
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#11
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Ya something is out of wack between the maf reading and the o2 reading. Could be one of those not reading correctly or as stated too much air post maf entering the system
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if the ECU cannot correct quickly or enough at enough data points...usually at throttle tip in. it'll throw into limp mode.
if true, at -95...if you reset all adaptations, you'll have a very tough time starting your engine without giving it gas while cranking.
with 596cc injectors the largest long term fuel trim i ever saw on a stock injector tune was -35%. only for a short while. not sure what the combined long term and short term was.
-95 is pretty nuts.
if true, at -95...if you reset all adaptations, you'll have a very tough time starting your engine without giving it gas while cranking.
with 596cc injectors the largest long term fuel trim i ever saw on a stock injector tune was -35%. only for a short while. not sure what the combined long term and short term was.
-95 is pretty nuts.
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yeah you have a leak or some mechanical issue. if its your STFT and not your LTFT has corrections and your Manifold readout is wrong as BLKROKT stated
Last edited by hachiroku; 01-31-2020 at 05:45 PM.
#21
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Mechanically I’m pretty solid I think. No oil consumption/blue smoke.
Service A was completed at the beginning of this month, where I was advised the following:
Rear brake pads at 4mm: Done myself
Air filter based on Wear/Mileage: Not done yet
Spark Plugs based on Wear/Mileage: Not done yet
Transmission Fluid change due by June: Not done yet.
The weird part is that the car definitely isn’t down on power, there’s just a strange noise in the cabin.
#22
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#23
You have a leak in the intake manifold. I had the exact same issue a couple months ago. Was going crazy. I had new injectors. New o2’s. New intake mainifold gasket+pcv valve.
One bank was running lean. The other rich. Took the manifold off and smoke tested it on bench. Found the problem... rear of the manifold was leaking
One bank was running lean. The other rich. Took the manifold off and smoke tested it on bench. Found the problem... rear of the manifold was leaking
#24
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You have a leak in the intake manifold. I had the exact same issue a couple months ago. Was going crazy. I had new injectors. New o2’s. New intake mainifold gasket+pcv valve.
One bank was running lean. The other rich. Took the manifold off and smoke tested it on bench. Found the problem... rear of the manifold was leaking
One bank was running lean. The other rich. Took the manifold off and smoke tested it on bench. Found the problem... rear of the manifold was leaking
How do I prep the surface that mates with the manifold?
#25
check this thread out. https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...valve-diy.html