Good Advice, or Blatant Lie?
I've been toying with the idea of buying a 2013/2014 C63. A friend of mine posted a Bentley Con GT on Insta and I jokingly texted him and said "Should I get the Con GT or the C63"
He calls me, stating that I should lease or pay cash for everything I drive. His reasoning is because you will be underwater so fast with the C63 if you finance and the maintenance will kill you.
So, I guess my dilemma is: Can I finance a 2013/2014 C63, or is that a stupid idea? and, What is really the largest maintenance item that could possibly be required? In turn, what is the average yearly maintenance?
I do not agree with the notion that if you have to worry about the cost of said items, you shouldn't buy the car.... I'm just conservative with my money and won't go into a purchase like that until I have at least a year's worth of car expenses in the bank.
I was just alarmed by his "advice"




For example, I do all the maintenance and most repairs myself.
Between oil changes, filters, brakes and spark plugs I get away with about $350 a year in average. (8k miles/year)
Your friend is probably that kind of vehicle owner who has the tire pressure corrected at the dealer.
Last edited by sventastic82; May 8, 2020 at 02:00 PM.
For example, I do all the maintenance and most repairs myself.
Between oil changes, filters, brakes and spark plugs I get away with about $350 a year in average. (8k miles/year)
Your friend is probably that kind of vehicle owner who has the tire pressure corrected at the dealer.
Let's just assume I'll get all maintenance done at a mechanic, likely not the dealer.
I could do some classes to learn basic maintenance, but I don't have a place to do anything since I'm in Chicago.
The FL 204s are probably the most reliable Euro sports sedans/coupes out there today. They are friggin tanks. Sure there are random issues here and there as there are with all cars but there are plenty of people on this board with up to and over 100,000 headache free miles.
As long as the previous owner kept up with the maintenance, you should be good to go with nothing but oil changes, brakes and tires.




Now, there are a few issues with these engines that I'm sure you'll come across from your own research, but 2012 and up will avoid the catastrophic ones. Other than that, the basic maintenance is really not bad. Oil changes are a piece of cake with an extractor and brakes are not all that expensive with quality aftermarket parts. I was actually surprised at how little you need to spend to get a new set of pads and rotors for a performance sedan.
Now with saying that, if you can't afford a Corrolla then you can't afford a C63 but these cars are cheap in my book, like pennies compared to what else you find out there. What your friend said makes 0, absolutely 0 sense.
Also, isn't not driving your car to keep low miles for resell etc like not banging your girlfriend so you can keep her tight for the next guy? I say enjoy away!!
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if you can find a well looked after, stock, sub-100k mile 2012+ car you can generally buy it with extreme confidence.
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The cars are pretty reliable, they do have some common problems that can add up if they occur but you can do an extended warranty to reduce the risk of paying yourself. Cam Adjusters get noisy and are 7k to replace at the dealer, but they just rattle and rarely fail, so it is just a noise to live with. Cams can wear, lifters can wear and do also rattle some times do to leak down, but typically good maintenance will keep the wear in check and will take a long time to wear enough to be an issue, but again another 7k or so if you need to replace cams and lifters, if just the lifters about 3500 to replace. If pre 2010, headbolt issues are also a concern and can fail with age, but are relatively affordable to replace pre failure, after they fail the heads have to come off and you need headgaskets.
The rest of the car is pretty solid, minor things here and there but holdup well.
Last edited by go team; May 10, 2020 at 12:55 AM.
Evan Smeenge, a lot of the future costs I'm sure, will relate to how hard the car you dicide to buy was driven, and how well/regularly it was previously serviced and maintained.
So I would want to confirm the cars service history, and what the previous owner/s was like.
Hope that helps.
D'oh!
Homer
I have read into the cars and do want to focus on the 2012 or newer options.
Were there any changes from 2012 to 2013 that i should know about? And is there really a good reason to go with a P30/P31? Other than "omg it's bad *** with more HP"...
Im in Chicago, and will drive this daily. With correct tires, can I Logically drive this through the slightly snowy Chicago winter?
E




I have read into the cars and do want to focus on the 2012 or newer options.
Were there any changes from 2012 to 2013 that i should know about? And is there really a good reason to go with a P30/P31? Other than "omg it's bad *** with more HP"...
Im in Chicago, and will drive this daily. With correct tires, can I Logically drive this through the slightly snowy Chicago winter?
E
The p31 also comes with forged internals. So, lighter rotating mass and stronger.
You'll be fine with proper snow tires.








I changed the rotors and pads on my car recently. I got a quote from the dealership as a laugh. $6k. I jumped on FCPEuros website, $1.8k landed to my door in Aus, and $400 for my mechanic to fit them. Job Done.
Apart from the routine maintenance, the car has been rock solid.
Buy one, you will not regret it.



