Guys I am replacing my valve cover gaskets this weekend in my C63. Wanted to ask does anyone use sealant or loctite to bolts when applying the new gasket?
Is it 9n/m for the plastic valve covers the torque settings?
I believe is 8nm for the plastic, I should know this as I just did mine a few weeks ago. I didn’t use anything on my bolts.
One thing to look out for is cracking on the driver side close to the firewall. When I dove into mine thinking my gasket had failed, it was actually a cracked VC.
As for the PCV I know people have successfully replaced it without removing the intake manifold (lord knows how because I had a helluva time even with the intake manifold off). The plastic basically crumbled. There is a water pipe in the way and it was a tad difficult to get enough leverage to force the PCV back in.
It is 8.5Nm for the plastic ones so most of us do 8-9 unless you have a digital torque wrench that can be that specific, document attached.
As Cammer88 inspect very carefully as they like to crack, especially back lower corner of drivers side, hard to find sometimes, but I did my seal twice before I found the crack. PCV not sure how anyone does it with the manifold on the car and since the manifold gaskets are known to fail, just easier to pull the intake and do the gaskets and PCV at the same time, probably takes no more time to pull the intake than fiddle around trying to do the PCV without pulling it.
^^^ Exactly. Took no more than 30min to pull the intake mani off (and only cost $50 in parts - gaskets and new bolts)
I did have a slight intake manifold leak which turned out to be a broken bolt (likely over tightened from the PO) Easy/cheap preventative maintenance and will save your arms trying to get the PCV out.
It is 8.5Nm for the plastic ones so most of us do 8-9 unless you have a digital torque wrench that can be that specific, document attached.
As Cammer88 inspect very carefully as they like to crack, especially back lower corner of drivers side, hard to find sometimes, but I did my seal twice before I found the crack. PCV not sure how anyone does it with the manifold on the car and since the manifold gaskets are known to fail, just easier to pull the intake and do the gaskets and PCV at the same time, probably takes no more time to pull the intake than fiddle around trying to do the PCV without pulling it.
take the cable loom off by unclipping it from the firewall. Then you can take the y pipe off and have good access to the pcv.
Thanks for all the info guys. I will be checking for cracks. If there is any does plastic weld work or do I need to replace the covers?
I also removed my Intake to fit the new PCV valve which took no more than 30mins. Iv opened it up to clean and was really surprised how clean it was inside. My questing is now! What torque do I need for the new intake manifold and also what torque for the throttle body bolts and plate.
Thanks for all the info guys. I will be checking for cracks. If there is any does plastic weld work or do I need to replace the covers?
I also removed my Intake to fit the new PCV valve which took no more than 30mins. Iv opened it up to clean and was really surprised how clean it was inside. My questing is now! What torque do I need for the new intake manifold and also what torque for the throttle body bolts and plate.
I think my intake took me like all day but I took it apart and cleaned it and broke one of the throttle body bolts which sucked a bit.
First hopefully you have new bolts they are one use only or will break 100%, 3 stages of tightening sequence attached..
First stage = 10Nm Second stage = 90deg Third stage = 10deg
I will look up the throttle body torque in a bit, think it might have been 8 or 9 nm
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