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Hey guys I recently got my car a 2011 c63 p31 dynoed today on a dynojet and I think the numbers are very low for the mods I have. Do u guys think my tune is bad? Let me know. I also just got the engine rebuilt and since it only has 1000km on it. Could this be a factor too?
Mods are
stage 2 tune
longtube headers
x pipe
Weistec intake filters.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
If everything checks out on engine - compression, leakdown, etc - I wouldn’t be too concerned about dyno numbers. They literally mean nothing without the baseline figure, ideally on same dyno same conditions same day.
With that said I would talk to your tuner, see what they think and if the file needs to be tweaked or not. Will likely have to datalog to get to the bottom of it, looking at AFRs, air flow, etc. I had to go back and forth with my tuner a dozen times before my headers file really ripped. Then a dyno tune gets you even more on top of that.
If everything checks out on engine - compression, leakdown, etc - I wouldn’t be too concerned about dyno numbers. They literally mean nothing without the baseline figure, ideally on same dyno same conditions same day.
With that said I would talk to your tuner, see what they think and if the file needs to be tweaked or not. Will likely have to datalog to get to the bottom of it, looking at AFRs, air flow, etc. I had to go back and forth with my tuner a dozen times before my headers file really ripped. Then a dyno tune gets you even more on top of that.
I’d also chat with Barry to see what he thinks.
I'm going to talk to my tuner tomorrow I'm really upset. The guys at the shop where I dynoed my car said it should of made around 490-500whp and that's a 50hp big difference.
also who is Barry?
Last edited by Guidonick; Aug 12, 2021 at 07:56 PM.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by Guidonick
I'm going to talk to my tuner tomorrow I'm really upset. The guys at the shop where I dynoed my car said it should of made around 490-500whp and that's a 50hp big difference.
also who is Barry?
Reality check - you’re not making 490-500whp with your mods. Try 460whp. Maybe.
This guy has the exact same mods on the exact same dyno. Something doesn't make sense here at 444whp
Hate to tell you this mate, but dyno numbers can be manipulated. His car may make 494whp, but your car may run 0-60 in 4 seconds flat and his might do 4.8 seconds.
The most "accurate" way to measure performance improvements is by using a dragy, or going to a dragstrip. On this forum, no one really gives a toss about whp/hp numbers. The real measure of performance on here is 0-60 times and 1/4 mile trap speeds.
Fore reference, i am running hachiroku's BASE tune, and it is 1 second quicker to 100kph than another companies stage 1 tune. All the while being down ~30whp on the dyno.
lol i guess my car would make 700whp on that dyno then. hahahaha. why was your engine rebuilt already?
A couple months after I bought the car I heard this ticking noise at low rpms and I brought it in to my mechanic and he did the diagnostic and said it was the main bearings making the noise. So he took out the entire engine and rebuilt everything from the bottom up. Was about a 20 thousand dollar job.
Hate to tell you this mate, but dyno numbers can be manipulated. His car may make 494whp, but your car may run 0-60 in 4 seconds flat and his might do 4.8 seconds.
The most "accurate" way to measure performance improvements is by using a dragy, or going to a dragstrip. On this forum, no one really gives a toss about whp/hp numbers. The real measure of performance on here is 0-60 times and 1/4 mile trap speeds.
Fore reference, i am running hachiroku's BASE tune, and it is 1 second quicker to 100kph than another companies stage 1 tune. All the while being down ~30whp on the dyno.
Hmm so do you think I should just keep this tune or get a full blown custom dyno tune and try and get my money back for the old tune ? Also I have pop and bangs and the car feels really Jerky when I let off throttle and press it again then the car jumps.
Hmm so do you think I should just keep this tune or get a full blown custom dyno tune and try and get my money back for the old tune ?
The big question is, how does the car drive? Does it "feel" good? Ignore the dyno numbers, and go drive your car. Do you think the throttle response or shifts could be better?
If so, speak to a someone who offers custom dyno tuning who is willing to work with you to get the car to a place you're happy with. If all you want is big dyno numbers, tnrow the car on a mustang dyno, and tell the operator you want big numbers. He will change the correction factor accordingly
The big question is, how does the car drive? Does it "feel" good? Ignore the dyno numbers, and go drive your car. Do you think the throttle response or shifts could be better?
If so, speak to a someone who offers custom dyno tuning who is willing to work with you to get the car to a place you're happy with. If all you want is big dyno numbers, tnrow the car on a mustang dyno, and tell the operator you want big numbers. He will change the correction factor accordingly
if I'm being honest it doesn't feel much faster than stock. Just alot louder. I was told a mustang dyno reads alot lower than a dynojet
Measure 100km/h to 200km/h and compare to others. 8.2s is stock if i remember correct.
And, as one wrote above, he was down 30hp still 1sec faster to 100km/h
This is probably due to a lot of torque increase in the tune.
Every engine needs to travel through rpm band to reach peak power = more torque makes it faster.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Ticking noise because of “main bearings”? And you wrote him a check for $20k? Oh boy, that’s an unusual diagnosis. Did you get another opinion on that? Because if not…
Anyway, you should probably read up on the forum a bit. Tons of good info here. Some of your expectations seem to need, um, calibration.
Ticking noise because of “main bearings”? And you wrote him a check for $20k? Oh boy, that’s an unusual diagnosis. Did you get another opinion on that? Because if not…
Anyway, you should probably read up on the forum a bit. Tons of good info here. Some of your expectations seem to need, um, calibration.
yes I got 3 well know performance shops in my area to diagnose the problem. The first one could not figure it out and said it was the camshafts but that was not the case. The second shop said it was the bearings and the crankshaft but I found that hard to belive the crank needed to be replaced. And the third shop finally figured it out after they tore down the engine said it was just the main bearings so while the entire engine was taken apart we might a well build the whole thing so that's what we did.
don't answer this question...but what's a stage 2 tune?
ticking is probably your cam adjusters. you're out in Toronto, you have 63motorsports right at your door. he will get you sorted out on parts and repair as I believe he has opened up shop as well. you can post a video and we can tell you the same, but its 99.9% your cam adjusters. any shop that calls something out in generalities like your crankshaft is dead is dumb and shouldn't be touching any car let alone any high performance specialty engine like the M156. also, crankshafts don't make ticking noises...rods make knocking noises, ticking noises mean lifters or cam adjusters and i'm telling ya 99.9% its your cam adjusters unless your lifters have holes in them. bad lifters should make a knocking noise anyway. knocking noise sounds like hammer banging on a 2x4 piece of wood solid but somewhat hollow.
Does camadjusters tick when engine is 'running'?
I though they were 'floating' in oil when engine 'constant' moves camshaft forward and aft, and 'cushioned' by that fact.
That´s why the pin is there, to prevent rattle before oilpressure has been reached.
I would have bet it was just the lifters(buckets)
But wristpin bearing in pistons or rods can have similar tick.
Mainbearings are a more 'clonk sound' if they ever make a sound.
don't answer this question...but what's a stage 2 tune?
ticking is probably your cam adjusters. you're out in Toronto, you have 63motorsports right at your door. he will get you sorted out on parts and repair as I believe he has opened up shop as well. you can post a video and we can tell you the same, but its 99.9% your cam adjusters. any shop that calls something out in generalities like your crankshaft is dead is dumb and shouldn't be touching any car let alone any high performance specialty engine like the M156. also, crankshafts don't make ticking noises...rods make knocking noises, ticking noises mean lifters or cam adjusters and i'm telling ya 99.9% its your cam adjusters unless your lifters have holes in them. bad lifters should make a knocking noise anyway. knocking noise sounds like hammer banging on a 2x4 piece of wood solid but somewhat hollow.
They replaced the cam adjusters during the tear down. Every single part in my engine is brand new. The original noise was coming from the bottom end it only made the sound at low rpms and only when driving really slow. It took 3 shops to diagnose this problem because nobody knows anything these days they just assume it's one problem and I spend the money with them and my car still makes the same noise after.
Does camadjusters tick when engine is 'running'?
I though they were 'floating' in oil when engine 'constant' moves camshaft forward and aft, and 'cushioned' by that fact.
That´s why the pin is there, to prevent rattle before oilpressure has been reached.
I would have bet it was just the lifters(buckets)
But wristpin bearing in pistons or rods can have similar tick.
Mainbearings are a more 'clonk sound' if they ever make a sound.
it wasn't the lifters I had those replaced before the engine teardown and my car still made the same noise
it wasn't the lifters I had those replaced before the engine teardown and my car still made the same noise
An exhaust leak also sounds like what you're describing... sometimes on the dyno a bad exhaust leak can sound similar to a spun bearing, and a minor exhaust leak (think pin-hole or slip fit) will only be heard at idle or when cold
An exhaust leak also sounds like what you're describing... sometimes on the dyno a bad exhaust leak can sound similar to a spun bearing, and a minor exhaust leak (think pin-hole or slip fit) will only be heard at idle or when cold
it wasn't an exaust leak it made the noise before I brought it to the dyno and you can't really hear it from outside only in the car with the windows up
I made 453whp on a dynojet with basically the same mods. My car has trapped 123.1mph in the quarter mile, full weight, pump gas which points to it making more than "453whp". Dyno figures are merely a number. Pick up a dragy and do some real world testing, that will show you where your car is actually at.
ummm, just to clear that up, Mexico is closer to Toronto than 63motorsports is...
lol, i looked and yes..i know nothing about Canada it seems. ha ha.
in either case...rod bearings don't tick, and if you had an issue with your main bearings you would have had a seized engine by now. my only thoughts are maybe its your oil pump, but if it was...you would have had an oil pump failure by now. i guess if it hasn't gotten worse and you can't identify, i guess ignore it?
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