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I have tried to look for similar issues here on MB World but cant seem to find anything close to the same issue.
I have a 2010 C63 and was driving with my son back home when I went into the left lane and then accelerated however the car felt like a bag of kittens (half the power). Then immediately a flashing check engine light then Back fire then the motor died. I pulled over put the hazards on tried to start it again it turned over started ran awful and died again. I towed the car home as I was like 2 minutes from my home. Ran the code and it came back with a P1614 (Intermittent misfire). Checked the oil for any coolant nothing ( looks brand new as I just changed the oil to Liqui Moly molygen 5w40 a few weeks beforehand). No leaks on the car what so ever either. No blown fuses.
I cleared the code and then figured I would try and start it again. Motor turns over but it wont fire almost like its not even sending spark. I thought O2 sensor but after reading other people's issues their cars were firing and just running rough. So I pulled the plugs and replaced them with brand new plugs yesterday. Hooked my scanner up and there Is no code showing. Tried to start it again same thing motor turns over it tries full start cycle doesn't even sputter just cranks.
Before I take it to the dealer or private shop Eurasia here in Edmonton I figured I would ask if anyone has any ideas or ways I can diagnose this. Or if anyone can recommend a mechanic in Edmonton that they have had great experience with the M156 that would be great.
My initial thought was fuel pump died or something fuel-related (I have 3/4 of a tank of fuel also FYI) but I don't know how to test the fuel pump. And now that it isn't showing any codes I dunno where to go?
Any help is welcomed. Other than the annoying lifter tick the car had awesome power and pulled hard every time I got on her so I'm at a loss.
Last edited by CoachKeith; 07-22-2024 at 11:18 AM.
Testing a fuel pump is easy and Google can help there. I’d also lean towards fuel system first. Try it before you kill the battery. The only time something happened to me like this was when a timing belt failed on me on an Audi but this is unlikely the case for you.
Well, I most certainly hope it isn't timing-related but I will look at testing the fuel pump and go down that path of replacing it if needed. Symptoms seem fuel-related as it cranks just won't start. It may be worth changing injectors also as I do have a brand new set and I don't know when they were done last or ever.
No i don't think mine is Mercedes-specific like that I did purchase this one for my ex's Mercedez GLK 250 and it worked fine for that but mine only will show current codes and like I said I cleared the P1614 code and it currently isn't reading any codes despite the no fire. So maybe I will invest in a better scanner then before I order anything else.
Okay had some time to look at the car this weekend and it's not the fuel pump as it is priming the system and after removing the rear seat I can hear it function.
I also pulled all injectors and replaced them with new ones as I had planned don't hat also.
I do have a new scanner I tried and the only "code" that this stored remains that P1614 (Which I had cleared already) and also a C2264. Symptoms remain the same, Engine turns over however it won't fire almost like its not being sent spark.
If anyone has any other ideas or areas to look at, I might bring it to a dealer as I would like to enjoy the car a bit more this season before she goes to winter storage.
You probably need a scanner that can scan deeper into the CAN system like an AUTEL. A lot of Mercedes specialist garages (non Dealer) would likely have one on hand. They seem to be pretty common these days.
I was thinking crank angle sensor failing or failed or perhaps a cam angle sensor failing or failed but one would have thought that it would show up in a code. A bit unusual for them to fail I would have thought.
Did you crack the fuel feed coupling where it feeds into the fuel rail to check that you have a decent amount of fuel pressure. The pump might be running but not providing sufficient fuel pressure. Ideally you would need to get hold of a fuel pressure gauge.
Get a better scanner! My Autel can check each of the required modules for start authorization and display their status, as well as scanning them all for other related trouble codes.
You probably need a scanner that can scan deeper into the CAN system like an AUTEL. A lot of Mercedes specialist garages (non Dealer) would likely have one on hand. They seem to be pretty common these days.
I was thinking crank angle sensor failing or failed or perhaps a cam angle sensor failing or failed but one would have thought that it would show up in a code. A bit unusual for them to fail I would have thought.
Did you crack the fuel feed coupling where it feeds into the fuel rail to check that you have a decent amount of fuel pressure The pump might be running but not providing sufficient fuel pressure. Ideally you would need to get hold of a fuel pressure gauge.
Well, I spent the morning into the afternoon and you were bang on Chris with the cam position sensor!!, AAAAANd I got a fuel pressure gauge and yuuuup fuel pump was under 50psi even lower when trying to crank .... SO I replaced the fuel pump and immediately she tried to fire (Huge relief) Even started.... ran like absolute garbage and died multiple times and then FINALLY some helpful codes (P0346) popped up! Ill be ordering all 4 sensors today and I will update once they arrive and I install them.
The biggest relief was finding this Threadas his symptoms where identical to mine so it would appear we have found the culprit...
Last edited by CoachKeith; 08-14-2024 at 04:51 PM.
Get a better scanner! My Autel can check each of the required modules for start authorization and display their status, as well as scanning them all for other related trouble codes.
Great news Keith. Hope the new sensors get you up and running again. It may only be one of them so change them out progressively.
I was just going to replace them all for more of a preventative maintenance stand point personally, I think it makes sense so this doesn't happen again. Ill update once they go in.
Little update this am replaced the 2 intake cam sensor position sensors and no change, back fired engine died. SO I'm hoping when the exhaust cam position sensors arrive and I throw them in it resolves the issue.
Little update this am replaced the 2 intake cam sensor position sensors and no change, back fired engine died. SO I'm hoping when the exhaust cam position sensors arrive and I throw them in it resolves the issue.
iirc they are the same sensor just different wire harnesses length so you can swap them around for troubleshooting
Okay so replaced all 4 camshaft sensors both intake and exhaust and this is the error I am getting. Battery is brand new but threw it on the charger now cause the newest error is low voltage. Anyone ever seen this?
'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
Crank position sensor ever been replaced? Known issue, although I'm not sure about your particular failure mode.
But do recharge the battery to rule that out. Probably keep it on a charger while you're diagnosing and cranking so it doesn't die while you try to fix it.
Low battery voltage can cause all kinds of odd faults that aren’t necessarily the case. Fully charge the battery and go from there.
Yea it’s on the charger now I’ll charge it over night.
Originally Posted by maw1124
Crank position sensor ever been replaced? Known issue, although I'm not sure about your particular failure mode.
But do recharge the battery to rule that out. Probably keep it on a charger while you're diagnosing and cranking so it doesn't die while you try to fix it. maw
Crank shaft position sensor has never been replaced to my knowledge. Can that cause this sort of error tho?
'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
Originally Posted by CoachKeith
Crank shaft position sensor has never been replaced to my knowledge. Can that cause this sort of error tho?
Not sure. We know they go bad but I don't think we've ever catalogued all the different manifestations of faults they produce when they go bad. That said, I keep one in the glove box.
Not sure. We know they go bad but I don't think we've ever catalogued all the different manifestations of faults they produce when they go bad. That said, I keep one in the glove box.
maw
Okay well, that being said it might be worthwhile to grab one then and swap it out. I've been doing pretty much everything preventative and they don't appear to be expensive.
Not sure. We know they go bad but I don't think we've ever catalogued all the different manifestations of faults they produce when they go bad. That said, I keep one in the glove box.
maw
okay so I charged the car over night and today after work went to start her and got a new code. lol it’s still saying the cam shaft position sensor in the driver side is gone even tho both are brand new. However this little new code popped in freeze frame so I am wondering if it is indeed the Crank shaft position sensor causing everything that happened.
For the camshaft sensor I would give the contacts in the connector a clean. Get yourself a can of contact cleaner from an automotive store or from an electrical store. Something like this one will do.
If that is not the issue then check the wiring to ensure that the harness has not been pinched or damaged anywhere. Be careful when disconnecting the connector that you don't yank on the wires and pull them away from the connector pins.
For the camshaft sensor I would give the contacts in the connector a clean. Get yourself a can of contact cleaner from an automotive store or from an electrical store. Something like this one will do.
If that is not the issue then check the wiring to ensure that the harness has not been pinched or damaged anywhere. Be careful when disconnecting the connector that you don't yank on the wires and pull them away from the connector pins.
Yea I checked the connectors its a little tight for the exhaust ones but as far as I could see getting int here they appear to be fine. Ill pick some of this up today give it a shot.
Originally Posted by maw1124
You might also disconnect the negative battery terminal for an hour and see what codes come back.
How did she run with the new CPS?
maw
I will try that I left it back on the charger just in case overnight I will disconnect it and see if that changes anything this am. Also, it did the same thing tried to start once died, same again now as it won't try the firing cycle just turns over, however after it died this CrankPS came up and I have never seen this one before so wondering if this is causing incorrect reading with the CamPS as it sounds like they cause a few headaches when the CrankPS goes.
07-22-2024, 11:17 AM
.... SO I replaced the fuel pump and immediately she tried to fire (Huge relief) Even started.... ran like absolute garbage and died multiple times and then FINALLY some helpful codes (P0346) popped up! Ill be ordering all 4 sensors today and I will update once they arrive and I install them.
