Parth141

So I've had my C63 S Coupe for about 1.5 months and there are some things that I have noticed a few things upon closer inspection that I did not see/hear before. I've been making a list for when I take my car into the dealer (after New Years time) but was just curious to see your guys thoughts, opinions, and feedback. Just wanna see if these are affecting anyone else.

1. Rip in the driver side AMG seat behind the left bolster. Didn't notice it at all until i was cleaning my car a few days ago. I told my service rep about it immediately but he said its not covered by warranty. I told him that this kind of occurrence is ridiculous for a car that's hardly a month old and so he agreed to take a look at it and see what he can do. So fingers crossed.

2. Jerky and almost violent gear shifts. I've noticed it when downshifting from 2nd to 1st gear manually at around 3000 rpm (it makes a good noise haha) but it causes the car to jerk a bit. Almost feels like I am dabbing on the brakes two times back to back. Another occurrence that I noticed was when manually shifting from 3rd to 4th (or maybe its 4th to 5th I'll have to double check) at around 4000 rpm. I usually do this when the car is holding the revs at 4000 for a few seconds because it just sounds funny after a bit. When I hit the paddle, the whole car jerks forward then back and the seat bangs against my head.

3. There seems to be a lot of wind noise from around the doors/windows. I don't expect S class levels of silence but I feel like its a bit much, especially noticable when on the highway without the radio on.

4. Interior rattling. From what I have read, this seems to be an issue a lot of people are facing so hopefully they will be able to get this taken care of for me.

5. This last one might just be all in my head, but my car just doesn't sound as loud as before. I remember reading somewhere on the forums that after getting his car updated, another owner had this same issue and it turned out that he had to get another update to fix the problem. Or something like that. Then again it could just be that I'm used to the sound now since I've been daily driving this thing like crazy.

and here is a pic of the ripped seat

SBH-

that seat is abnormal ... I have something similar but after a year of using it. nonetheless, its only that the left trim of the seat is starting to fade out (I assume because when I get into and out of the car).

as for the rattling, dude believe me no matter what you do, new rattles and squeaks will come up and continue to drive you crazy! sorry for that, but that's my personal experience

the sailing feature will only kick in when you remove your foot from the pedal? that's what I remember, haven't set my car on C for a long time now

The wind noise is something which I gave up on ... took my car in 3 times, results were unnoticeable.

the magnet on the passengers seat should work perfectly fine, had it work ever since I tried it out. sometimes the passengers seat position makes it hard for the magnet to hold on for so long, try adjusting the seat(if no ones onboard).

those were my two cents.

tripitz

Make sure you have auto start/stop activated... for some reason, MB decided that not having your car go on and off in an annoying manner driving locally that you do not want to save fuel while coasting on the highway...

Parth141

Dang I was hoping they would have found a fix for all of the excess noises inside the car by now. Thats disappointing
I will try out your guy's other suggestions about the sailing function and seatbelt this afternoon and update.

update: So it turns out that you do have to have the car in auto start/stop for the vehicle to use the sail function. Good to know haha. And I did end up finding the magnet on the seat but it's not very strong and only really works when the seat is pushed all the way back.
Thanks for the feedback guys!

RDOCA

My magnet works ok but of course the easy fix is just to buckle the passenger belt.

tekfoc

that looks like a cut in the seat .
it will be hard to get an approval good luck.

Mbm6f

I'd be ready for MB to tell you to pound sand.

VaserC63S

2. Jerk shifts - They do smoothen out over time. My car used to be rather jerky and extremely so if I was in Sports + mode. These days the jerkiness is mild in comparison. In Sports + (my individual setting) its not bad, in Comfort mode its not even there anymore. I am at about 2700 miles. Maybe my foot has learned to modulate better, but I actually think its the car thats getting smoother.

5. Not as loud as before - yup we all notice it gets less loud as break in progresses. Unfortunately people have also reported after service the pops and bubbles are mellowed out.

SBH-

hmmm, I noticed that after the 30k KM service, car is slightly more quiet, however the pops (if you accelerate and let the pedal go after a gear has been upshifted) are louder, and fortunately they come in triplets now

dforman15

I took my car in about 8 months ago and complained about the excess noise and they replaced my windows under warranty and I think they installed a thicker glass. I can check into that if anyone is interested.

OrientBlue3

I have the same jerky shifts. It's the downshift in low gear in Comfort mode and then it's like the car holds the clutch in too long and there's a pause and a delay until the car grabs the gear again. I also have a weird problem where when I first start the car up, put it in the reverse and then into drive in Comfort and the first time I hit the gas to go forward the rpm's jump up big time to 1,500 RPM or so and you can hear the engine rev and the car goes nowhere for about 2-3 seconds before it finally lurches forward. It was especially bad today with the 20 degree temps this morning. It did the same thing again at my first stop of my drive in to work. It figures, I sold my CLS63 for a tranny issue that drove me nuts and now this car has one. It sounds relatively normal though from other complaints people have had, not saying it's good but at least a lot of other people have it. I've yet to hear of someone with a solution though. It might just be a quirk of the transmission, which would be a real shame in my opinion.

SBH-

sounds good , please confirm

Parth141

So my dealership currently has my car and are repairing the torn seat. Had to directly contact MBUSA to make it all happen. Hopefully it turns out good. If not I'm going to push for a replacement seat. Also having them look at my passenger window having a problem with rolling up as well as the excessive wind noise and jerky gear shifts, so hopefully that will all get resolved as well!

JPS114

I'm having issues with the shifting as well (150miles) but from my understanding the car will learn your driving habits over a few k miles & really smooth out

Can anybody confirm any difference from 1st few drives compared to now with a few k miles?

RDOCA

I can see your problem-quit using Comfort
Seriously you know the C mode does not go to low but stops at 2nd unless you pull the left paddle.
I always never drive in C unless I have passengers and I want it quite or a long freeway run to better mileage.

ItalianJoe1

There is a bulletin out regarding updates changing the sound of the car, there was a revised update for the M/E that brings back the noise from before. This would only be an issue if your car was updated during the period affected though. If it just changed on it's own, not noticeably after you were in the dealership for a complaint that caused them to update the engine software, then it's not that.

There is also an LI document relating to W205 cars with wind noises around the front windows, specifically from the mirrors. The fix is to replace the front glass with dual-layer, insulated glass, if the car was not so equipped when built. If you complain and your car is eligible, they should change both front windows. Fairly common thing at our dealer.

SBH-

I didn't quite understand it bro .. I took my car for service and just told them to check gear 5 because I felt it was a bit jerky during upshifts and downshifts ... they told me they updated the gear and nothing seems to be wrong with it

BLAM

How did you manage to get MB to replace the seats? That is a clean cut like a razor blade and not due to poor quality. Was there recent activity using a blade like tint work or registration sticker? I want to know your secrets for future reference.

OrientBlue3

I'm aware of that. I've owned multiple AMG's for the last 7 years. It doesn't change the fact that it's not acceptable.

GEARS5

I've noticed the transmission behaves much differently once it is up to operating temperature. (you can view the temp in the AMG or Engine screens). When it is cold, it is slow to react to paddle changes and can be very jerky. Once its up to 100+ degrees, all is well.

ignomini

In all my years of driving, in cars spanning the MG TC, to an Audi R8, I don't believe I have ever attempted to shift into first when running at 3,000 rpm in 2nd. Why would anyone do that? Particularly in a car which will likely be happy to ignite the tires at that rpm and gear. Frankly, I would expect a rough change in that scenario.

GEARS5

I find that people who can drive a manual smoothly can also drive an SMG, DCT, MCT, Tiptronic, 7-G Tronic, 9-G Tronic, etc, etc, smoothly.

My first non-manual car was a 2004 BMW 540i with a then new SMG (clutchless) manual. Many complained that it wasn't smooth, I never had a problem... you just had to drive it like a manual. You had to match the engine speed to the shifts. You also had to let up on the gas to shift (something you didn't need to do on their subsequent DCT transmissions)

Just because the car will let you shift from 2nd down to 1st, doesn't mean you should... would you ever do it with a real manual under the same conditions?... same with up shifting, it has to make sense speed and RPM wise.... otherwise, yes, it will be jerky... just like it would be jerky with an old fashioned clutch under the same conditions.

stillcap2

I've made this same observation in my C43C.

RDOCA

You are right on but a few comments here might be warranted.
First don't compare the C43 and C63 transmissions as they are different in one very important aspect.
The new 9 spd. trans in the C43 is a fully auto trans with a fluid coupling and the MCT in the C63 (7 spd.) and in the new E63 (9 spd.) do not have a torque converter (fluid coupling) but a wet multi plate clutch. The MCT might be a little harder to make all shifts as smooth as it has to disengage and reengage like when coming up to a stop and the light changes and you get back on the throttle and it jerks.
I find times where it reacts like Orient says but usually you can mitigate this by not trying to pull away too fast on an initial startup.
I usually start up and wait 30 to 60 secs before shifting to reverse then wait maybe 10 sec before moving and after backing out shift to drive and than wait another 10 sec before moving ahead.
When the trans is cold and not driven for a while it needs to fill all the clutches and valve body with oil and then when put in gear to fill all the passages and clutches needed in that gear.
MB is making it better all the time by tweaking the soft ware to fit all the situations it will encounter but you can help this as Gear says by thinking and not being a brute when you don't need to. This is probably why MB doesn't use RACE START with the C43 as you have to torque brake the trans and with the C63 they can just not engage the startup clutch and bring rpm to 3500-4000 and when you remove your foot from brake it engages the clutch and computer controls everything from there on.

http://www.autoevolution.com/news/me...ms-112461.html

Parth141

No, I'm guessing its probably from when they were originally unwrapping all of the plastic and stuff from the vehicle after delivery. MB already had made problems for me in the past with this vehicle. My car was ordered fully specced out but it did not come with power folding mirrors, which i had to use my time to go to the dealership and retrofit. I also was not rude or anything. I did express my frustrations but was also courteous towards the person on the other end. Compassion can carry you far haha.

going from 3000rpm in 2nd down to first only raises rpm to 4000. Main reason I do it is when I am coming up to a red light because the exhaust starts to pop off. Now I am not expecting a smooth downshift at all. The problem is that the car hesitates after the downshift and then begins to lurch forwards 3-4 times. This is the abnormality that I am referring to.