Thoughts on these issues? (ripped seat, jerky gears...)
1. Rip in the driver side AMG seat behind the left bolster. Didn't notice it at all until i was cleaning my car a few days ago. I told my service rep about it immediately but he said its not covered by warranty. I told him that this kind of occurrence is ridiculous for a car that's hardly a month old and so he agreed to take a look at it and see what he can do. So fingers crossed.
2. Jerky and almost violent gear shifts. I've noticed it when downshifting from 2nd to 1st gear manually at around 3000 rpm (it makes a good noise haha) but it causes the car to jerk a bit. Almost feels like I am dabbing on the brakes two times back to back. Another occurrence that I noticed was when manually shifting from 3rd to 4th (or maybe its 4th to 5th I'll have to double check) at around 4000 rpm. I usually do this when the car is holding the revs at 4000 for a few seconds because it just sounds funny after a bit. When I hit the paddle, the whole car jerks forward then back and the seat bangs against my head.
3. There seems to be a lot of wind noise from around the doors/windows. I don't expect S class levels of silence but I feel like its a bit much, especially noticable when on the highway without the radio on.
4. Interior rattling. From what I have read, this seems to be an issue a lot of people are facing so hopefully they will be able to get this taken care of for me.
5. This last one might just be all in my head, but my car just doesn't sound as loud as before. I remember reading somewhere on the forums that after getting his car updated, another owner had this same issue and it turned out that he had to get another update to fix the problem. Or something like that. Then again it could just be that I'm used to the sound now since I've been daily driving this thing like crazy.
and here is a pic of the ripped seat
Last edited by Parth141; Dec 18, 2016 at 01:29 PM.
as for the rattling, dude believe me no matter what you do, new rattles and squeaks will come up and continue to drive you crazy! sorry for that, but that's my personal experience

the sailing feature will only kick in when you remove your foot from the pedal? that's what I remember, haven't set my car on C for a long time now

The wind noise is something which I gave up on ... took my car in 3 times, results were unnoticeable.
the magnet on the passengers seat should work perfectly fine, had it work ever since I tried it out. sometimes the passengers seat position makes it hard for the magnet to hold on for so long, try adjusting the seat(if no ones onboard).
those were my two cents.

I will try out your guy's other suggestions about the sailing function and seatbelt this afternoon and update.
update: So it turns out that you do have to have the car in auto start/stop for the vehicle to use the sail function. Good to know haha. And I did end up finding the magnet on the seat but it's not very strong and only really works when the seat is pushed all the way back.
Thanks for the feedback guys!
Last edited by Parth141; Dec 18, 2016 at 01:27 PM. Reason: Update

I will try out your guy's other suggestions about the sailing function and seatbelt this afternoon and update.
update: So it turns out that you do have to have the car in auto start/stop for the vehicle to use the sail function. Good to know haha. And I did end up finding the magnet on the seat but it's not very strong and only really works when the seat is pushed all the way back.
Thanks for the feedback guys!
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5. Not as loud as before - yup we all notice it gets less loud as break in progresses. Unfortunately people have also reported after service the pops and bubbles are mellowed out.
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5. Not as loud as before - yup we all notice it gets less loud as break in progresses. Unfortunately people have also reported after service the pops and bubbles are mellowed out.
Can anybody confirm any difference from 1st few drives compared to now with a few k miles?
I can see your problem-quit using Comfort
Seriously you know the C mode does not go to low but stops at 2nd unless you pull the left paddle.
I always never drive in C unless I have passengers and I want it quite or a long freeway run to better mileage.
There is also an LI document relating to W205 cars with wind noises around the front windows, specifically from the mirrors. The fix is to replace the front glass with dual-layer, insulated glass, if the car was not so equipped when built. If you complain and your car is eligible, they should change both front windows. Fairly common thing at our dealer.
There is also an LI document relating to W205 cars with wind noises around the front windows, specifically from the mirrors. The fix is to replace the front glass with dual-layer, insulated glass, if the car was not so equipped when built. If you complain and your car is eligible, they should change both front windows. Fairly common thing at our dealer.
My first non-manual car was a 2004 BMW 540i with a then new SMG (clutchless) manual. Many complained that it wasn't smooth, I never had a problem... you just had to drive it like a manual. You had to match the engine speed to the shifts. You also had to let up on the gas to shift (something you didn't need to do on their subsequent DCT transmissions)
Just because the car will let you shift from 2nd down to 1st, doesn't mean you should... would you ever do it with a real manual under the same conditions?... same with up shifting, it has to make sense speed and RPM wise.... otherwise, yes, it will be jerky... just like it would be jerky with an old fashioned clutch under the same conditions.
My first non-manual car was a 2004 BMW 540i with a then new SMG (clutchless) manual. Many complained that it wasn't smooth, I never had a problem... you just had to drive it like a manual. You had to match the engine speed to the shifts. You also had to let up on the gas to shift (something you didn't need to do on their subsequent DCT transmissions)
Just because the car will let you shift from 2nd down to 1st, doesn't mean you should... would you ever do it with a real manual under the same conditions?... same with up shifting, it has to make sense speed and RPM wise.... otherwise, yes, it will be jerky... just like it would be jerky with an old fashioned clutch under the same conditions.
You are right on but a few comments here might be warranted.
First don't compare the C43 and C63 transmissions as they are different in one very important aspect.
The new 9 spd. trans in the C43 is a fully auto trans with a fluid coupling and the MCT in the C63 (7 spd.) and in the new E63 (9 spd.) do not have a torque converter (fluid coupling) but a wet multi plate clutch. The MCT might be a little harder to make all shifts as smooth as it has to disengage and reengage like when coming up to a stop and the light changes and you get back on the throttle and it jerks.
I find times where it reacts like Orient says but usually you can mitigate this by not trying to pull away too fast on an initial startup.
I usually start up and wait 30 to 60 secs before shifting to reverse then wait maybe 10 sec before moving and after backing out shift to drive and than wait another 10 sec before moving ahead.
When the trans is cold and not driven for a while it needs to fill all the clutches and valve body with oil and then when put in gear to fill all the passages and clutches needed in that gear.
MB is making it better all the time by tweaking the soft ware to fit all the situations it will encounter but you can help this as Gear says by thinking and not being a brute when you don't need to. This is probably why MB doesn't use RACE START with the C43 as you have to torque brake the trans and with the C63 they can just not engage the startup clutch and bring rpm to 3500-4000 and when you remove your foot from brake it engages the clutch and computer controls everything from there on.

http://www.autoevolution.com/news/me...ms-112461.html
Last edited by RDOCA; Dec 22, 2016 at 04:32 PM.







