Differential Oil Change at 2000 miles
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2017 AMG C63 Sedan Iridium Silver
Differential Oil Change at 2000 miles
As the maintenance schedule for my new C63 requires an initial gear oil replacement for the differential at 2K miles and as the price quoted at my nearest Mercedes dealer gave me pause, I want to take care of it myself.
Can anyone who's done this tell me if there's any issues to be concerned with and what gear oil specification is required, e.g., 75-90, 85-90, any particular brand, any additive required?
Any guidance much appreciated.
Can anyone who's done this tell me if there's any issues to be concerned with and what gear oil specification is required, e.g., 75-90, 85-90, any particular brand, any additive required?
Any guidance much appreciated.
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ZX10R (04-19-2017)
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2017 AMG C63 Sedan Iridium Silver
#4
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Joe,
Can you confirm this is the correct fluid: A001 989 17 03 10?
Thanks!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE-...FY2cT8&vxp=mtr
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#8
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#9
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#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joe,
Can you confirm this is the correct fluid: A001 989 17 03 10?
Thanks!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE-...FY2cT8&vxp=mtr
Can you confirm this is the correct fluid: A001 989 17 03 10?
Thanks!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE-...FY2cT8&vxp=mtr
The following users liked this post:
nobbyv (04-20-2017)
#11
Senior Member
As the maintenance schedule for my new C63 requires an initial gear oil replacement for the differential at 2K miles and as the price quoted at my nearest Mercedes dealer gave me pause, I want to take care of it myself.
Can anyone who's done this tell me if there's any issues to be concerned with and what gear oil specification is required, e.g., 75-90, 85-90, any particular brand, any additive required?
Any guidance much appreciated.
Can anyone who's done this tell me if there's any issues to be concerned with and what gear oil specification is required, e.g., 75-90, 85-90, any particular brand, any additive required?
Any guidance much appreciated.
You will need:
1) (2) screw plugs part #001-990-23-17. I found these online for $18/ea, which is highway robbery, but I would recommend replacing them. They're a pretty soft aluminum that really wanted to round when I got a socket on them to remove
2) At least 1.5L of Castrol Syntrax 75W-140. The MB part # is 001-989-52-03-10. This stuff isn't "commonly" available at your average auto parts store, but you can find it online for cheaper than at the dealer. The OEM fluid is literally a bottle of this with a MB parts sticker label on it. Note that this comes in both 0.5L and 1L bottles (which I suspect is the source of the confusion regarding exactly how many bottles the dealer charges for). The diff takes ~1.4L; I bought two 1L bottles just in case I spilled any.
3) 19mm 12-pt 1/2" drive socket
4) 1/2" drive ratchet
5) 1/2" drive extension bar
6) Waste oil collection pan
The steps:
1) Lift the car up. The BEST way to do this is on a lift or using four jackstands. You want the car to be level.
2) Find the diff. It's got aluminum cooling fins on the back of it. The housing itself is black. The drain plug is on the passenger's side, the fill is on the driver's side. If you forget which is which, the drain plug will be lower on the diff housing (duh)
3) Remove the fill plug FIRST. On the off chance you strip this plug (and those things are in there good!), you don't want it to be AFTER you drain out all the diff fluid. I found the extension was needed here to clear the exhaust on this one
4) Position your oil collection pan
5) Remove the drain plug. My oil really wasn't that hot after the car sat for 1/2 hour, but be aware of it. Use just the socket (no extension) for this one.
6) Let it drain for a bit
7) Replace the drain plug with a new one. I could not find a published torque spec for the W205 for this; I used the spec from the W204 (35lb-ft)
8) Fill the diff through the fill plug hole directly from the bottle. I originally thought I'd need a fluid transfer pump, but there's enough clearance that the nozzle built into the fluid bottle makes it in pretty simple.
9) Keep squeezing the bottle(s) until the fluid starts to ooze out the fill plug hole
10) Replace the fill plug with a new one
11) Wipe up any spilled fluid (especially from the exhaust)
Pretty easy. Cost me $100 in parts, and took 1/2 hour. Seems like most people opted for the prepaid maintenance, which should cover this, but I didn't and the $225 quote I got seemed silly for something that takes 1/2 hour. YMMV
#12
I was going to do a full DIY write-up on this, but it was so easy I didn't bother taking pics so I'll just post it here.
You will need:
1) (2) screw plugs part #001-990-23-17. I found these online for $18/ea, which is highway robbery, but I would recommend replacing them. They're a pretty soft aluminum that really wanted to round when I got a socket on them to remove
2) At least 1.5L of Castrol Syntrax 75W-140. The MB part # is 001-989-52-03-10. This stuff isn't "commonly" available at your average auto parts store, but you can find it online for cheaper than at the dealer. The OEM fluid is literally a bottle of this with a MB parts sticker label on it. Note that this comes in both 0.5L and 1L bottles (which I suspect is the source of the confusion regarding exactly how many bottles the dealer charges for). The diff takes ~1.4L; I bought two 1L bottles just in case I spilled any.
3) 19mm 12-pt 1/2" drive socket
4) 1/2" drive ratchet
5) 1/2" drive extension bar
6) Waste oil collection pan
The steps:
1) Lift the car up. The BEST way to do this is on a lift or using four jackstands. You want the car to be level.
2) Find the diff. It's got aluminum cooling fins on the back of it. The housing itself is black. The drain plug is on the passenger's side, the fill is on the driver's side. If you forget which is which, the drain plug will be lower on the diff housing (duh)
3) Remove the fill plug FIRST. On the off chance you strip this plug (and those things are in there good!), you don't want it to be AFTER you drain out all the diff fluid. I found the extension was needed here to clear the exhaust on this one
4) Position your oil collection pan
5) Remove the drain plug. My oil really wasn't that hot after the car sat for 1/2 hour, but be aware of it. Use just the socket (no extension) for this one.
6) Let it drain for a bit
7) Replace the drain plug with a new one. I could not find a published torque spec for the W205 for this; I used the spec from the W204 (35lb-ft)
8) Fill the diff through the fill plug hole directly from the bottle. I originally thought I'd need a fluid transfer pump, but there's enough clearance that the nozzle built into the fluid bottle makes it in pretty simple.
9) Keep squeezing the bottle(s) until the fluid starts to ooze out the fill plug hole
10) Replace the fill plug with a new one
11) Wipe up any spilled fluid (especially from the exhaust)
Pretty easy. Cost me $100 in parts, and took 1/2 hour. Seems like most people opted for the prepaid maintenance, which should cover this, but I didn't and the $225 quote I got seemed silly for something that takes 1/2 hour. YMMV
You will need:
1) (2) screw plugs part #001-990-23-17. I found these online for $18/ea, which is highway robbery, but I would recommend replacing them. They're a pretty soft aluminum that really wanted to round when I got a socket on them to remove
2) At least 1.5L of Castrol Syntrax 75W-140. The MB part # is 001-989-52-03-10. This stuff isn't "commonly" available at your average auto parts store, but you can find it online for cheaper than at the dealer. The OEM fluid is literally a bottle of this with a MB parts sticker label on it. Note that this comes in both 0.5L and 1L bottles (which I suspect is the source of the confusion regarding exactly how many bottles the dealer charges for). The diff takes ~1.4L; I bought two 1L bottles just in case I spilled any.
3) 19mm 12-pt 1/2" drive socket
4) 1/2" drive ratchet
5) 1/2" drive extension bar
6) Waste oil collection pan
The steps:
1) Lift the car up. The BEST way to do this is on a lift or using four jackstands. You want the car to be level.
2) Find the diff. It's got aluminum cooling fins on the back of it. The housing itself is black. The drain plug is on the passenger's side, the fill is on the driver's side. If you forget which is which, the drain plug will be lower on the diff housing (duh)
3) Remove the fill plug FIRST. On the off chance you strip this plug (and those things are in there good!), you don't want it to be AFTER you drain out all the diff fluid. I found the extension was needed here to clear the exhaust on this one
4) Position your oil collection pan
5) Remove the drain plug. My oil really wasn't that hot after the car sat for 1/2 hour, but be aware of it. Use just the socket (no extension) for this one.
6) Let it drain for a bit
7) Replace the drain plug with a new one. I could not find a published torque spec for the W205 for this; I used the spec from the W204 (35lb-ft)
8) Fill the diff through the fill plug hole directly from the bottle. I originally thought I'd need a fluid transfer pump, but there's enough clearance that the nozzle built into the fluid bottle makes it in pretty simple.
9) Keep squeezing the bottle(s) until the fluid starts to ooze out the fill plug hole
10) Replace the fill plug with a new one
11) Wipe up any spilled fluid (especially from the exhaust)
Pretty easy. Cost me $100 in parts, and took 1/2 hour. Seems like most people opted for the prepaid maintenance, which should cover this, but I didn't and the $225 quote I got seemed silly for something that takes 1/2 hour. YMMV
I want to mention that if something were to happen to the diff and the maintenance wasn't done by MB, there is a chance for a warranty denial. I had a slight issue with warranty work on my S4's DSG because I performed the maintenance myself. The dealer pointed that out but let me slide since the internal ECU in the trans is a known issue.
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thanks for the write-up. Very informative.
I want to mention that if something were to happen to the diff and the maintenance wasn't done by MB, there is a chance for a warranty denial. I had a slight issue with warranty work on my S4's DSG because I performed the maintenance myself. The dealer pointed that out but let me slide since the internal ECU in the trans is a known issue.
I want to mention that if something were to happen to the diff and the maintenance wasn't done by MB, there is a chance for a warranty denial. I had a slight issue with warranty work on my S4's DSG because I performed the maintenance myself. The dealer pointed that out but let me slide since the internal ECU in the trans is a known issue.
After this initial break-in differential fluid change, when should the next one be? I know many differentials require regular scheduled interval oil changes.
#14
#15
Senior Member
Thanks for the write-up. Very informative.
I want to mention that if something were to happen to the diff and the maintenance wasn't done by MB, there is a chance for a warranty denial. I had a slight issue with warranty work on my S4's DSG because I performed the maintenance myself. The dealer pointed that out but let me slide since the internal ECU in the trans is a known issue.
I want to mention that if something were to happen to the diff and the maintenance wasn't done by MB, there is a chance for a warranty denial. I had a slight issue with warranty work on my S4's DSG because I performed the maintenance myself. The dealer pointed that out but let me slide since the internal ECU in the trans is a known issue.
We all know that TECHNICALLY they can't deny your warranty claim based on not using a MB dealer for service. We also know that it's easy to cite Magnuson-Moss until the sun comes up, but when a dealer denies your claim you're just a guy up against a multi-million dollar car dealership franchise, and possibly a multi-billion dollar manufacturer.
Long story short: I keep my receipts and keep a mileage/service log in Excel. If something does happen to go haywire, I realize that there's a risk (however small) of having to fight a bit to get warranty work covered. I actually usually opt for the prepaid maintenance on cars I've bought, but this time just decided to go DIY, or indie for anything I can't handle. I have a GREAT specialty European indie less than a mile from my house.
#16
In the end, if a warranty is denied for whatever reason, due to a DIY or the use of an Indy shop, it's the job of the owner to prove it to MB that a warranty claim has to be honored. This would be a long battle.
#17
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2017 AMG C63 Sedan Iridium Silver
I was going to do a full DIY write-up on this, but it was so easy I didn't bother taking pics so I'll just post it here.
You will need:
1) (2) screw plugs part #001-990-23-17. I found these online for $18/ea, which is highway robbery, but I would recommend replacing them. They're a pretty soft aluminum that really wanted to round when I got a socket on them to remove
2) At least 1.5L of Castrol Syntrax 75W-140. The MB part # is 001-989-52-03-10. This stuff isn't "commonly" available at your average auto parts store, but you can find it online for cheaper than at the dealer. The OEM fluid is literally a bottle of this with a MB parts sticker label on it. Note that this comes in both 0.5L and 1L bottles (which I suspect is the source of the confusion regarding exactly how many bottles the dealer charges for). The diff takes ~1.4L; I bought two 1L bottles just in case I spilled any.
3) 19mm 12-pt 1/2" drive socket
4) 1/2" drive ratchet
5) 1/2" drive extension bar
6) Waste oil collection pan
The steps:
1) Lift the car up. The BEST way to do this is on a lift or using four jackstands. You want the car to be level.
2) Find the diff. It's got aluminum cooling fins on the back of it. The housing itself is black. The drain plug is on the passenger's side, the fill is on the driver's side. If you forget which is which, the drain plug will be lower on the diff housing (duh)
3) Remove the fill plug FIRST. On the off chance you strip this plug (and those things are in there good!), you don't want it to be AFTER you drain out all the diff fluid. I found the extension was needed here to clear the exhaust on this one
4) Position your oil collection pan
5) Remove the drain plug. My oil really wasn't that hot after the car sat for 1/2 hour, but be aware of it. Use just the socket (no extension) for this one.
6) Let it drain for a bit
7) Replace the drain plug with a new one. I could not find a published torque spec for the W205 for this; I used the spec from the W204 (35lb-ft)
8) Fill the diff through the fill plug hole directly from the bottle. I originally thought I'd need a fluid transfer pump, but there's enough clearance that the nozzle built into the fluid bottle makes it in pretty simple.
9) Keep squeezing the bottle(s) until the fluid starts to ooze out the fill plug hole
10) Replace the fill plug with a new one
11) Wipe up any spilled fluid (especially from the exhaust)
Pretty easy. Cost me $100 in parts, and took 1/2 hour. Seems like most people opted for the prepaid maintenance, which should cover this, but I didn't and the $225 quote I got seemed silly for something that takes 1/2 hour. YMMV
You will need:
1) (2) screw plugs part #001-990-23-17. I found these online for $18/ea, which is highway robbery, but I would recommend replacing them. They're a pretty soft aluminum that really wanted to round when I got a socket on them to remove
2) At least 1.5L of Castrol Syntrax 75W-140. The MB part # is 001-989-52-03-10. This stuff isn't "commonly" available at your average auto parts store, but you can find it online for cheaper than at the dealer. The OEM fluid is literally a bottle of this with a MB parts sticker label on it. Note that this comes in both 0.5L and 1L bottles (which I suspect is the source of the confusion regarding exactly how many bottles the dealer charges for). The diff takes ~1.4L; I bought two 1L bottles just in case I spilled any.
3) 19mm 12-pt 1/2" drive socket
4) 1/2" drive ratchet
5) 1/2" drive extension bar
6) Waste oil collection pan
The steps:
1) Lift the car up. The BEST way to do this is on a lift or using four jackstands. You want the car to be level.
2) Find the diff. It's got aluminum cooling fins on the back of it. The housing itself is black. The drain plug is on the passenger's side, the fill is on the driver's side. If you forget which is which, the drain plug will be lower on the diff housing (duh)
3) Remove the fill plug FIRST. On the off chance you strip this plug (and those things are in there good!), you don't want it to be AFTER you drain out all the diff fluid. I found the extension was needed here to clear the exhaust on this one
4) Position your oil collection pan
5) Remove the drain plug. My oil really wasn't that hot after the car sat for 1/2 hour, but be aware of it. Use just the socket (no extension) for this one.
6) Let it drain for a bit
7) Replace the drain plug with a new one. I could not find a published torque spec for the W205 for this; I used the spec from the W204 (35lb-ft)
8) Fill the diff through the fill plug hole directly from the bottle. I originally thought I'd need a fluid transfer pump, but there's enough clearance that the nozzle built into the fluid bottle makes it in pretty simple.
9) Keep squeezing the bottle(s) until the fluid starts to ooze out the fill plug hole
10) Replace the fill plug with a new one
11) Wipe up any spilled fluid (especially from the exhaust)
Pretty easy. Cost me $100 in parts, and took 1/2 hour. Seems like most people opted for the prepaid maintenance, which should cover this, but I didn't and the $225 quote I got seemed silly for something that takes 1/2 hour. YMMV
#18
Senior Member
That's the thing though, this is listed as a required service that has certain requirements, such as the correct fluid, fluid amount, TQ specs, and the proper drainage of the old fluid, etc. You are taking that chance of somebody other than the dealership messing up, which is OK but leads me to my next point. Does it seem logical for a person to save money on a service where labor + parts could easily reach $1000+ for replacement on an item that will see constant wear & tear? Don't know about you but that seems like quite a gamble.
In the end, if a warranty is denied for whatever reason, due to a DIY or the use of an Indy shop, it's the job of the owner to prove it to MB that a warranty claim has to be honored. This would be a long battle.
In the end, if a warranty is denied for whatever reason, due to a DIY or the use of an Indy shop, it's the job of the owner to prove it to MB that a warranty claim has to be honored. This would be a long battle.
I understand the cautious approach. But to me, it tends to be a lot of hand-wringing about nothing.
#19
Member
If I was buying a used C63 and one had a record on the MB system for the first service being carried out by a main dealer and another just had receipts for a DIY job OR a indi dealer, I know which I would buy!
With that in mind a full dealer service history in Europe is worth the money come to resale and has a significant effect on values.
These cars are not cheap and in my opinion its really not worth cutting corners.
Plus a main dealer will have a record of any technical bulletins or updates that may need to be applied under warranty FOC while the cars in.
Honestly if you paid this much for a car, a 3 years service deal shouldn't break the bank.
With that in mind a full dealer service history in Europe is worth the money come to resale and has a significant effect on values.
These cars are not cheap and in my opinion its really not worth cutting corners.
Plus a main dealer will have a record of any technical bulletins or updates that may need to be applied under warranty FOC while the cars in.
Honestly if you paid this much for a car, a 3 years service deal shouldn't break the bank.
#20
Senior Member
If I was buying a used C63 and one had a record on the MB system for the first service being carried out by a main dealer and another just had receipts for a DIY job OR a indi dealer, I know which I would buy!
With that in mind a full dealer service history in Europe is worth the money come to resale and has a significant effect on values.
These cars are not cheap and in my opinion its really not worth cutting corners.
With that in mind a full dealer service history in Europe is worth the money come to resale and has a significant effect on values.
These cars are not cheap and in my opinion its really not worth cutting corners.
And if there's actually a recall of some kind, the manufacturer is required to notify me.
Not worth it to you? Great! Pay the dealer what they ask. But stop with the hand wringing over what's a far easier job than changing the engine oil. I'm not re-balancing turbo impellers using my food processor and an Exacto knife here. It's a job that a well-trained monkey could do while blindfolded.
#21
Member
Guys, it's your money. Do what you want. But I can assure you, there was no "cutting corners" when I swapped the diff oil.
In my experience, NO dealers proactively apply technical bulletins or updates unless there's a specific complaint you log with them that warrants it (see the exhaust SW update in this same forum as a prime example of people trying to figure out the magic words to get their local dealer to correct something covered under a TSB). And If I have a specific complaint that I believe is covered by a TSB, I make an appointment. It's pretty simple.
And if there's actually a recall of some kind, the manufacturer is required to notify me.
Frankly, the money is actually of little concern to me. What's more valuable is my time. And 1/2 hour in my garage beats making an appointment, driving to the dealer, waiting an hour before they even get to it, then another hour while the tech strolls around taking his sweet time (because the job books at an hour, so that's what they'll take), then another hour while I wait for the complimentary wash that will just put swirls in my paint. Plus, I *like* doing mechanical work. I find it soothing.
Not worth it to you? Great! Pay the dealer what they ask. But stop with the hand wringing over what's a far easier job than changing the engine oil. I'm not re-balancing turbo impellers using my food processor and an Exacto knife here. It's a job that a well-trained monkey could do while blindfolded.
In my experience, NO dealers proactively apply technical bulletins or updates unless there's a specific complaint you log with them that warrants it (see the exhaust SW update in this same forum as a prime example of people trying to figure out the magic words to get their local dealer to correct something covered under a TSB). And If I have a specific complaint that I believe is covered by a TSB, I make an appointment. It's pretty simple.
And if there's actually a recall of some kind, the manufacturer is required to notify me.
Frankly, the money is actually of little concern to me. What's more valuable is my time. And 1/2 hour in my garage beats making an appointment, driving to the dealer, waiting an hour before they even get to it, then another hour while the tech strolls around taking his sweet time (because the job books at an hour, so that's what they'll take), then another hour while I wait for the complimentary wash that will just put swirls in my paint. Plus, I *like* doing mechanical work. I find it soothing.
Not worth it to you? Great! Pay the dealer what they ask. But stop with the hand wringing over what's a far easier job than changing the engine oil. I'm not re-balancing turbo impellers using my food processor and an Exacto knife here. It's a job that a well-trained monkey could do while blindfolded.
Is a full manufacturers service history a valuable thing to have in your country? If not disregard my comments.
It IS in the UK! I had 2 buyers walk away from buying my E90 BMW M3 last year as it was missing its first service stamp even though I had a receipt. I ended up posting a logbook around the UK for a stamp! A car like a C63 with a FMBSH will add a few thousand to the UK resale price in 3 years compared to one that hasn't.
I get on well with my dealer and make a point of knowing some staff and managers on first name terms. Its worth it! I'm lucky as mine are local, has an AMG lounge with free drinks, free snacks and WiFi so I can work if needed and they have a viewing bay so I can watch my car getting worked on. Plus, I get to see / poke around any new AMG models they have in and talk about new cars with the AMG sales manager. Dont want your car washed, just ask them not to... I do!
It's hardly a trip to the dentist!
I ALWAYS ask about saftey and software updates on all my cars and bikes when booking services and if there is a software update or recall update it can get done in one trip. Obviously they won't carry out every TSB released but if you don't ask you don't get and if you are friendly with your dealer and they value your custom they should look after you. Most services include an inspection and an experienced Mercedes mechanic will look for and notice problems you never would. I've never had a problem with this approach with Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Triumph, KTM or Ducati. I even found a Ford dealer who are good to work with for my wife's new car!
Im not saying DONT tinker with your own car, you paid for it, it's your call.
A 3 year full service pack in the UK is £1600 (undiscounted), so to me personally it makes sense to get services done by the dealer as given the cost over 3 years and what a FMBSH will add to the resale value, its money well spent I think.
I get on well with my dealer and make a point of knowing some staff and managers on first name terms. Its worth it! I'm lucky as mine are local, has an AMG lounge with free drinks, free snacks and WiFi so I can work if needed and they have a viewing bay so I can watch my car getting worked on. Plus, I get to see / poke around any new AMG models they have in and talk about new cars with the AMG sales manager. Dont want your car washed, just ask them not to... I do!
It's hardly a trip to the dentist!
I ALWAYS ask about saftey and software updates on all my cars and bikes when booking services and if there is a software update or recall update it can get done in one trip. Obviously they won't carry out every TSB released but if you don't ask you don't get and if you are friendly with your dealer and they value your custom they should look after you. Most services include an inspection and an experienced Mercedes mechanic will look for and notice problems you never would. I've never had a problem with this approach with Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Triumph, KTM or Ducati. I even found a Ford dealer who are good to work with for my wife's new car!
Im not saying DONT tinker with your own car, you paid for it, it's your call.
A 3 year full service pack in the UK is £1600 (undiscounted), so to me personally it makes sense to get services done by the dealer as given the cost over 3 years and what a FMBSH will add to the resale value, its money well spent I think.
#22
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2017 AMG C63 Sedan Iridium Silver
As I don't have capability of raising rear end, I took it to a known, reliable independent. Otherwise, I would have done it myself as it's obviously pretty simple. The key question I posed to the indie while making the appointment was weight of hypoid oil he would use. He checked and came back with 75W-140, which solidified my confidence. Labor $110 (minimum 1 hour), oil 36.00, tax 2.88 for total $148.88.
His only comment when I picked it up was they had to take particular care to make sure refill was completely full.
His only comment when I picked it up was they had to take particular care to make sure refill was completely full.
#23
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2016 C63 S
Make certain you have the slip differential that needs the oil change at 2000 miles. I was told by 1 dealer I needed it and the other dealer told me I did not.
#24
After service saying I didn't need the rear diff oil change and me getting it in writing 3600 miles on the odometer and my diff failed and it is being replaced under warranty
#25
Junior Member
I don't know about the other models as I have a 2017 C63S Coupe, but the owner's manual on page 130 (yeah I read it) says:
Self-locking rear axle differential (Mercedes-AMG vehicles)
Your vehicle is equipped with a self-locking differential on the rear axle.
Change the oil to improve protection of the rear axle differential:
These oil changes prolong the service life of the differential. Have the oil change carried out at a qualified specialist workshop.
When I got the car there was a big sticker on the windshield that also said this had to be done, but it said at 1,875 miles.Your vehicle is equipped with a self-locking differential on the rear axle.
Change the oil to improve protection of the rear axle differential:
- after a breaking-in period of 1,850 miles (3,000 km)
- every 31,000 miles (50,000 km) or 3 years
These oil changes prolong the service life of the differential. Have the oil change carried out at a qualified specialist workshop.
I had it done for $95 at the dealership where I bought the car.
Last edited by bdpdx; 05-09-2017 at 04:38 PM.