I recently changed the rear brake pads on my 2015 C63S and thought I'd share my findings on part numbers, tools & my procedure. I can't guarantee the accuracy of these instructions but believe them to be accurate. Hope they help someone out!
Junior Member
Quote:
Very detailed write up. Thank you!Originally Posted by BD-C63
I recently changed the rear brake pads on my 2015 C63S and thought I'd share my findings on part numbers, tools & my procedure. I can't guarantee the accuracy of these instructions but believe them to be accurate. Hope they help someone out!
Senior Member
Great write-up!
One question: in Step 10, you say "jack using central jack position". I wasn't aware there WAS a central jack position, and the Owner's Manual doesn't make note of it. Where is this central jack position?
One question: in Step 10, you say "jack using central jack position". I wasn't aware there WAS a central jack position, and the Owner's Manual doesn't make note of it. Where is this central jack position?
I only did the rear pads this time and I didn't check to see if there was a central point in the front but I thought that during my research I had seen that there was one. The next time I'm under there I'll see if there is one and post what I find.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Two thumbs up to a great write-up!
Junior Member
Hi BD-C63,
Finally changed the pads today.
I would like to thank you from the bottom of my heart for the great helpful article.
It took about three goes to have the brake release, but, all else was flawless.
One comment, but, my lug nuts were actually 17mm not 18.
Again, thank you very much and please whenever you do some repairs/replacements; please let us know.
Cheers,
Mark
Finally changed the pads today.
I would like to thank you from the bottom of my heart for the great helpful article.
It took about three goes to have the brake release, but, all else was flawless.
One comment, but, my lug nuts were actually 17mm not 18.
Again, thank you very much and please whenever you do some repairs/replacements; please let us know.
Cheers,
Mark
Senior Member
Just did my rear brakes using this guide, great job OP! Only change I'd make is to highlight how you need to grab the inner nut with pliers/Vicegrips/wrench (20mm?)/etc. I know you call it out in your write-up, but I somehow glossed over how essential it is, as otherwise the caliper bolts just turn and turn while trying to remove them.
Also, thought I'd add: I did this work because the dealer told me I needed rear brakes (pads/rotors) at my first B service (20k). I declined (because ~$900) and let them go until 22k (today). After I pulled off the first rotor, I threw a set of micrometer calipers on them and found they were down 0.5mm vs the new ones. I had zero scoring, and no ridge at the edge. Personally, I'd let them go for another 20k and not worry about them. The pads themselves were definitely worn though; I probably had 5k left tops before I hit the wear limit sensor. Though I bought the OEM discs from FCP Euro, so a lifetime guarantee is nice to have. YMMV.
I installed Porterfield pads, I'm expecting much less brake dust AND squealing.
Also, thought I'd add: I did this work because the dealer told me I needed rear brakes (pads/rotors) at my first B service (20k). I declined (because ~$900) and let them go until 22k (today). After I pulled off the first rotor, I threw a set of micrometer calipers on them and found they were down 0.5mm vs the new ones. I had zero scoring, and no ridge at the edge. Personally, I'd let them go for another 20k and not worry about them. The pads themselves were definitely worn though; I probably had 5k left tops before I hit the wear limit sensor. Though I bought the OEM discs from FCP Euro, so a lifetime guarantee is nice to have. YMMV.
I installed Porterfield pads, I'm expecting much less brake dust AND squealing.
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
ExploreJunior Member
Quote:
Also, thought I'd add: I did this work because the dealer told me I needed rear brakes (pads/rotors) at my first B service (20k). I declined (because ~$900) and let them go until 22k (today). After I pulled off the first rotor, I threw a set of micrometer calipers on them and found they were down 0.5mm vs the new ones. I had zero scoring, and no ridge at the edge. Personally, I'd let them go for another 20k and not worry about them. The pads themselves were definitely worn though; I probably had 5k left tops before I hit the wear limit sensor. Though I bought the OEM discs from FCP Euro, so a lifetime guarantee is nice to have. YMMV.
I installed Porterfield pads, I'm expecting much less brake dust AND squealing.
Hi,Originally Posted by nobbyv
Just did my rear brakes using this guide, great job OP! Only change I'd make is to highlight how you need to grab the inner nut with pliers/Vicegrips/wrench (20mm?)/etc. I know you call it out in your write-up, but I somehow glossed over how essential it is, as otherwise the caliper bolts just turn and turn while trying to remove them.Also, thought I'd add: I did this work because the dealer told me I needed rear brakes (pads/rotors) at my first B service (20k). I declined (because ~$900) and let them go until 22k (today). After I pulled off the first rotor, I threw a set of micrometer calipers on them and found they were down 0.5mm vs the new ones. I had zero scoring, and no ridge at the edge. Personally, I'd let them go for another 20k and not worry about them. The pads themselves were definitely worn though; I probably had 5k left tops before I hit the wear limit sensor. Though I bought the OEM discs from FCP Euro, so a lifetime guarantee is nice to have. YMMV.
I installed Porterfield pads, I'm expecting much less brake dust AND squealing.
Keep us posted as to how you are finding the Porterfield pads
Senior Member
Quote:
Keep us posted as to how you are finding the Porterfield pads
Will do! Originally Posted by RebelC63S
Hi,Keep us posted as to how you are finding the Porterfield pads
Member
Thank you for the write up.
I just finshed my fronts they installed with ease. As for the backs, even in serivce mode their is so much meat I can’t get the pistons back by hand. Can you recommend a the piston retracting tool that you used?
I just finshed my fronts they installed with ease. As for the backs, even in serivce mode their is so much meat I can’t get the pistons back by hand. Can you recommend a the piston retracting tool that you used?
Go to Home Depot and get a squeeze grip. They're in the tool isle and work like a charm. The Two pack is maybe 14 bucks
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 507AMG
Go to Home Depot and get a squeeze grip. They're in the tool isle and work like a charm. The Two pack is maybe 14 bucks
ahh shoot never thought of that, large vice grips.
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 507AMG
Here you go
That’s the exact one I used worked perfectly. Got the backs on with no problem. Took it out did 5 stops from about 35 then 3 from 45. Never came to a full stop.
Member
Good information in this thread. I'm accumulating information on DIY work for this car as I've got one on order. I come from the VAG world where there is a ton of DIY guides and am a little surprised there are so few for this platform.
Could some of these get 'stickied' to the top?
Could some of these get 'stickied' to the top?
Junior Member
Quote:
Thank you! will use this for my GLS63.Originally Posted by BD-C63
I recently changed the rear brake pads on my 2015 C63S and thought I'd share my findings on part numbers, tools & my procedure. I can't guarantee the accuracy of these instructions but believe them to be accurate. Hope they help someone out!
Newbie
I am about to install both front and rear brake rotors/pads on my W205 C63S. What are the torque specs you guys used when you reinstalled the parts? I've searched and couldn't find the answer.



