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Help with loss of power/boost and limp mode: P222D & P227D (Dinan Tune only)
I've been running a Dinan tune without issues for several years (about 10k miles) and just recently started encountering issues with not hitting full boost, feeling a loss of power up top, occasionally going into limp mode, and generally feeling sluggish in acceleration. After long pulls (3rd and 4th) it will throw itself into a limp mode where I can't produce any boost at all. Restarting the car and resetting the codes (P222D & P227D) gets my boost back, but I still feel like there are underlying issues that are causing boost/power to be pulled. After clearing codes and getting boost back, the car feels better but my Dragy results are producing stock numbers - I'm down about 5-6 MPH in the 1/8 and slightly more than that in the 1/4.
I don't feel like the car is misfiring, but I suspect it may be an issue as I am still on stock plugs with a 14,500 miles total (and 10k on the tune). Does anyone have any advice on how to resolve these two codes/loss of boost? Looks like it could be a barometric pressure sensor(s) causing issues. I'm going to bypass my Dinan tune and revert back to stock and see if I still have issues, but I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
I looked these up using Xentry SIM Because your using a generic OBD reader it’s not super accurate , it looks like there could be an issue with a cable been shorted / chafed through. If reverting it to stock doesn’t clear the codes you’ll prob have to disconnect the piggy back harness and reconnect the factory wiring to the sensors( it’s a pain in the *** I know I’ve done my JB4 a few times)
Thanks zipzap. I put the car to sleep and unplugged the battery to swap in the Dinan bypass plug and revert to stock. After testing, power seems like stock/restored, boost is hitting max, and I didn't go into a limp mode after doing some higher gear pulls.
But these codes still popped back on, along with a new one for the PCM. The dealership is going to pick up from my home since I'm still under warranty, so I'll be popping off the Dinan harness to go back to stock (I've also done this 4-5 times, always a bit annoying, but I've gotten pretty good at it by now).
Car has run flawlessly with the Dinan tune up until now, so I'm wondering if it's plug/spark related (when more boost is being requested).
Thanks zipzap. I put the car to sleep and unplugged the battery to swap in the Dinan bypass plug and revert to stock. After testing, power seems like stock/restored, boost is hitting max, and I didn't go into a limp mode after doing some higher gear pulls.
But these codes still popped back on, along with a new one for the PCM. The dealership is going to pick up from my home since I'm still under warranty, so I'll be popping off the Dinan harness to go back to stock (I've also done this 4-5 times, always a bit annoying, but I've gotten pretty good at it by now).
Car has run flawlessly with the Dinan tune up until now, so I'm wondering if it's plug/spark related (when more boost is being requested).
I am no expert but shouldn't you drive the car for some time and do a few turn on/off so that the ECM can adjust to the stock settings again? Also, the P227D codes are permanent, doesn't that mean w/o actually deleting them (not sure if you can with your reader) they will not go away even if the cause is gone.....I probably would reset call codes, if possible, and get some time on the ECM after removing the Dinan before turning into dealer. JMO
Thanks zipzap. I put the car to sleep and unplugged the battery to swap in the Dinan bypass plug and revert to stock. After testing, power seems like stock/restored, boost is hitting max, and I didn't go into a limp mode after doing some higher gear pulls.
But these codes still popped back on, along with a new one for the PCM. The dealership is going to pick up from my home since I'm still under warranty, so I'll be popping off the Dinan harness to go back to stock (I've also done this 4-5 times, always a bit annoying, but I've gotten pretty good at it by now).
Car has run flawlessly with the Dinan tune up until now, so I'm wondering if it's plug/spark related (when more boost is being requested).
P2610 will clear itself after a few ignition cycles.
is the CEL still active on the dash since you removed the Dinan?
My gut tells me to check the Dinan harness hasn’t chaffed through.
P2610 will clear itself after a few ignition cycles.
is the CEL still active on the dash since you removed the Dinan?
My gut tells me to check the Dinan harness hasn’t chaffed through.
I inspected the Dinan harness and it looks good as new. Couldn’t find any fraying or chaffing on the harness or any near the sensor plugs.
I drove the car around bone stock yesterday and today and haven’t seen any CEL, everything feels fine with acceleration, no limp etc.
I have a service scheduled and a few items I’ve been meaning to get looked at (like the pesky H-pipe valve fluttering), so they’re going to do some diagnostics while it’s in. They’re picking it up on Monday so if I hear any resolution/cause I’ll update.
Don’t be ignorant. I spoke with my MB advisor and turns out I had a faulty pressure transducer. That was causing the boost and limp issues. Replaced under warranty - which, by the way, would not have been the case if I had an ECU tune.
My factory warranty expires in October and I very much intend on using it as much as possible until then.
And FYI - my car has run flawlessly with Dinan up until the factory sensor took a dump. 11.5@127mph on just a Dinan tune, pump gas, factory exhaust and intake at full weight is nothing to sneeze at...
Don’t be ignorant. I spoke with my MB advisor and turns out I had a faulty pressure transducer. That was causing the boost and limp issues. Replaced under warranty - which, by the way, would not have been the case if I had an ECU tune.
My factory warranty expires in October and I very much intend on using it as much as possible until then.
And FYI - my car has run flawlessly with Dinan up until the factory sensor took a dump. 11.5@127mph on just a Dinan tune, pump gas, factory exhaust and intake at full weight is nothing to sneeze at...
I flash to stock before service at home in less than 45 seconds with the handheld, all without removing wires and harnesses in the engine bay car also runs 11.3 @126 on 93 octane but I do have catless downpipes.
ECU tunes > piggy backs.
Last edited by raudiace4; May 4, 2020 at 09:44 PM.
Don’t be ignorant. I spoke with my MB advisor and turns out I had a faulty pressure transducer. That was causing the boost and limp issues. Replaced under warranty - which, by the way, would not have been the case if I had an ECU tune.
My factory warranty expires in October and I very much intend on using it as much as possible until then.
And FYI - my car has run flawlessly with Dinan up until the factory sensor took a dump. 11.5@127mph on just a Dinan tune, pump gas, factory exhaust and intake at full weight is nothing to sneeze at...
just curious as to why you are selling your Dinan harness if it was just the sensor causing an issue? Any other issues that we should be aware of down the line?
just curious as to why you are selling your Dinan harness if it was just the sensor causing an issue? Any other issues that we should be aware of down the line?
I’ve already sold it, but why would a piggyback tune cause a boost pressure transducer on my car to fail? That makes no sense, I’ve been completely problem free for years on this tune, things break regardless and any tune puts more stress on parts. I’m sure at some point I’ll be replacing plugs or coil packs, I’ve just been fortunate to not have ignition issues.
I negotiated, among other things, prepaid maintenance when I bought the car. I haven’t had to pay a cent for maintenance - any time it’s been in to the dealer for scheduled maintenance. To many that adds up to thousands of dollars. The first diff service alone at break in ran at least $350 (or more) last I remember when these cars first came out. Just replacing fluids for basic maintenance is expensive.
My 15k mile coupe last week got fresh engine oil, trans fluid, rear diff fluid, new wipers, you name it. I also got updated software for the AMG suspension programming, an update to COMAND which actually updated some UI, features and functionality.... point is, having warranty is (for the time being) nice to have and I like to use it as much as I can to maintain this beast because, quite frankly, it’s free - to me at least.
The piggyback served its purpose well, the car got that last major service last week and it will be the last until my warranty expires in October... so now I have more options, I may try something a little spicier like E85, because I’ve gotten my money’s worth in maintenance and warranty!
I flash to stock before service at home in less than 45 seconds with the handheld, all without removing wires and harnesses in the engine bay car also runs 11.3 @126 on 93 octane but I do have catless downpipes.
ECU tunes > piggy backs.
I trapped 1 mph faster than you on 93 octane and completely stock exhaust from the turbo back. Just the Dinan tune.
Good piggybacks will make around the same as ECU flashes. Ease of installation is a whole other discussion and OBD wins all day, but see my post above for my (temporary) rationale for not flashing it and having it flagged by a dealership.
Remember, Dinan is only a stage 1 tune. You can run catted downpipes but if you want to go crazy in the future you’ll be limited. But I would still recommend it highly to anyone that wants warranty intact (with Dinan, and that it leaves no trace once removed). With an ECU flash, once it’s been written the actual code is modified and bye bye warranty if anything bad/expensive happens.
I trapped 1 mph faster than you on 93 octane and completely stock exhaust from the turbo back. Just the Dinan tune.
Good piggybacks will make around the same as ECU flashes. Ease of installation is a whole other discussion and OBD wins all day, but see my post above for my (temporary) rationale for not flashing it and having it flagged by a dealership.
Remember, Dinan is only a stage 1 tune. You can run catted downpipes but if you want to go crazy in the future you’ll be limited. But I would still recommend it highly to anyone that wants warranty intact (with Dinan, and that it leaves no trace once removed). With an ECU flash, once it’s been written the actual code is modified and bye bye warranty if anything bad/expensive happens.
Isn't the sole purpose of the piggy back to trick those pressure sensors and various other sensor that feed info to the ECU? Is it not possible the piggyback could have caused this? Have not heard or any ECU tunes causing this issue, just saying. And your performance mostly trap speed was impressive for tune only, but there have also been a couple of guys that have been able to run mid 11s bone stock in their cars. What we know is not all these cars are created the same since the hand-built engine factor. Some are stronger from the factory than others.
I've had runs where I've trapped almost 129, but the ETs were high 11s due to spinning and bad launches in this car. Also for those wondering, I flash my ECU to stock before going to the dealer for any service/work I still have my warranty fully intact. Never had any warranty claims denied because of it, and this goes back to my M157 days on E63.
Last edited by raudiace4; May 5, 2020 at 10:35 AM.
I flash to stock before service at home in less than 45 seconds with the handheld, all without removing wires and harnesses in the engine bay car also runs 11.3 @126 on 93 octane but I do have catless downpipes.
ECU tunes > piggy backs.
Wait you can flash it back to stock and there won't be a check engine from the downpipes? I'm curious because I need to replace my thermostat and change my spark plugs but im running a DME tune with catless downpipes.
Wait you can flash it back to stock and there won't be a check engine from the downpipes? I'm curious because I need to replace my thermostat and change my spark plugs but im running a DME tune with catless downpipes.
I have O2 spacers on, and even without its about ~50 miles or so before the CEL kicks on for O2 sensor on stock file. Not gonna pass smell test though, and this is for regular service not any warranty work.
Isn't the sole purpose of the piggy back to trick those pressure sensors and various other sensor that feed info to the ECU? Is it not possible the piggyback could have caused this? Have not heard or any ECU tunes causing this issue, just saying. And your performance mostly trap speed was impressive for tune only, but there have also been a couple of guys that have been able to run mid 11s bone stock in their cars. What we know is not all these cars are created the same since the hand-built engine factor. Some are stronger from the factory than others.
I've had runs where I've trapped almost 129, but the ETs were high 11s due to spinning and bad launches in this car. Also for those wondering, I flash my ECU to stock before going to the dealer for any service/work I still have my warranty fully intact. Never had any warranty claims denied because of it, and this goes back to my M157 days on E63.
If you're implying that intercepting a sensor signal lead to premature failure, I think that's quite a stretch. Sensors and random parts go bad, stock and modified - sometimes for no reason other than the fact that it was on its way out because it was a faulty unit from the factory. Things fail prematurely all the time on brand new cars, just look at the coil pack situation with the first year or so run on the Sedans.
And as far as keeping your warranty intact, the only reason your warranty exists is because you haven't filed a warranty claim that required a major engine repair. I can guarantee you that if you pop a turbo, damage anything internally (block, heads), MB HQ will pour through your ECU data to see if you're "eligible" for the warranty work to be completed. They are required to find the cause of the a major failure, and when engines pop, the ECU is the first place they'll look. Flashing back to stock does not change your flash counter, not does it revert back to all original code when you re-write over the ECU via OBD. For non-catastrophic/inexpensive drivetrain repairs and warranty work, 99% of people will be safe just reverting back to stock via OBD flash. But when **** hits the fan, that's when you need that warranty most and an ECU that hasn't been touched or flashed.
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