Best bet would be to chat to you tuner and get an idea about what would be achievable with what equipment.
I haven’t heard of anyone hitting 1000hp with the pure 900”s but this doesn’t mean it hasn’t been done!
I’m a big fan of the pure 900”s so would recommend them to anyone unless they want to go for 1000hp plus , your only option after that would the the Weistec W4 (since yabeela has turned to ****) which I think realistically with your power goals would be a better bet.
You may also want to look at the Spool HPFP upgrade , this will allow you to run high E content fuel , you don’t want to be rolling around on race gas 24/7 !
lastly get the biggest semi slicks you can get on the back of the car , I’ve got 295 R888r on the back and they still struggle with traction !
Best of luck. Are custom fab exhaust and downpipes really necessary, the downpipes are available off the shelf and the exhaust is straight through all the way to the back box. It might be really bad drone wise without the back box, which you can bypass anyway. Maybe just a new switchable back box that lets even more noise through, but you'll be glad you can switch it off when cruising.
I doubt the engine would last long with 1000bhp, or the gearbox, diff, driveshafts, etc.
That's the headline figure I'm expecting on my 911 turbo and the modifications to get there is pretty extensive, fully forged, ported, syvecs, twin Alpha3076, bored, stroked, GT2RS gearbox, 2wd conversion, level 5 axles, meth inj, flexfuel. I really need straight cut gears, but I don't want the whine in a road car so I'll detune it a bit. Just slapping turbos on and a remap is asking for trouble. You'll have a faster car if you keep it driveable, don't go for the pub number.
I doubt the engine would last long with 1000bhp, or the gearbox, diff, driveshafts, etc.
That's the headline figure I'm expecting on my 911 turbo and the modifications to get there is pretty extensive, fully forged, ported, syvecs, twin Alpha3076, bored, stroked, GT2RS gearbox, 2wd conversion, level 5 axles, meth inj, flexfuel. I really need straight cut gears, but I don't want the whine in a road car so I'll detune it a bit. Just slapping turbos on and a remap is asking for trouble. You'll have a faster car if you keep it driveable, don't go for the pub number.
I didn't wanna seem like a troll or a grump, but yea, like you said, 1000 hp on an AMG motor is likely cost-prohibitive. This isn't a car that you can just throw on huge turbos, a fuel controller, and turn up the boost. Most cars that are capable of those type of hp figures require about 30K - 40K in work to come CLOSE (800s-900s). And getting to the 900+ mark means a FULLY built motor. A good example is Underground Racing, that hold several records. Look at their pricing, starting with a V10 motor already making close to 600hp in factory form: https://www.undergroundracing.com/in...audi-r8-v10-tt
Maybe you have deep pockets, and can drop $50K in a car you likely picked up for around $60K. But more than likely, I think your appetite exceeded your funds in this endeavor, Feel free to put your money where your mouth is, and make me put my foot in my mouth though
Best of luck. Are custom fab exhaust and downpipes really necessary, the downpipes are available off the shelf and the exhaust is straight through all the way to the back box. It might be really bad drone wise without the back box, which you can bypass anyway. Maybe just a new switchable back box that lets even more noise through, but you'll be glad you can switch it off when cruising.
soo there is a customer fabrication guys here in Scottsdale that doo a lot of the downpipes that come through Dyno Comp. I’d just rather support local then buy online. They’re all the same for the most part!
as far as exhaust I’d be adding almost an inch to the entire exhaust from 2.75 to 3.5 which will help with airflow and turbos! It will also sound great. If it ends up being too loud I’ll throw on some mufflers and cut outs!
Best of luck. Are custom fab exhaust and downpipes really necessary, the downpipes are available off the shelf and the exhaust is straight through all the way to the back box. It might be really bad drone wise without the back box, which you can bypass anyway. Maybe just a new switchable back box that lets even more noise through, but you'll be glad you can switch it off when cruising.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I didn't wanna seem like a troll or a grump, but yea, like you said, 1000 hp on an AMG motor is likely cost-prohibitive. This isn't a car that you can just throw on huge turbos, a fuel controller, and turn up the boost. Most cars that are capable of those type of hp figures require about 30K - 40K in work to come CLOSE (800s-900s). And getting to the 900+ mark means a FULLY built motor. A good example is Underground Racing, that hold several records. Look at their pricing, starting with a V10 motor already making close to 600hp in factory form: https://www.undergroundracing.com/in...audi-r8-v10-tt
Maybe you have deep pockets, and can drop $50K in a car you likely picked up for around $60K. But more than likely, I think your appetite exceeded your funds in this endeavor, Feel free to put your money where your mouth is, and make me put my foot in my mouth though
I completely misspoke and was thinking 1000 crank! Going for a safe 700-800 rwhp!
Good luck with the build man! I think you'll need to go with turbos bigger than the Pure900 kit to get your 1000hp goal at the crank consistently / reliably. Also might want to do some research on pure turbos exploding and sending shrapnel through your engine bay/exhaust lol if tuned by someone who doesn't know what they're doing. You'll need a tcu tune, and possibly upgraded clutch packs too. Upgraded intercoolers, plus the meth but looks like you have that covered.
The only thing I would add is once you get above 800hp at the crank...you may want to add a clutch rebuild for the tranny. IDK but that is what I have heard. I am at around 650 at the crank and have no problems (knock on wood) but I do not 1/4 mile my car. Mainly street driving and I do 1/2 mile race it 3 times a year at NFZ.
1000bhp crank will still need rods, once you open it up, its open wallet surgery..
You'll need bigger rails, fuel pump, probably lines too. Maybe E63s pistons. C63 headers are small bore, you'll need bigger. Get it ported if opening up. Standard intercoolers won't be big enough. Then there's cooling, bigger rads.
This is why I reckon you're best getting an E63 lump, chill cast, bigger oil pump, low comp pistons, headers, rails etc. You'll still need rods though. Swap all the bits over and offset cost by selling your C63 block.
Good luck with the build. To be honest, this isn't the platform for 1000hp. It's a jumped up family car, get a proper sports car!
Interesting. Can you visually tell the fuel pump has been changed in any way by brief visual inspection of the engine bay? Or do you have to start removing covers etc to tell it's modified?
Also, your website states you can provide "calibration details to your existing tuner." So I'm assuming the FP can be easily controlled via an ECU tune; no aftermarket controller or ECU required, correct?
Below are a couple of pics of the install I’m working through currently
You are correct about not needing an aftermarket controller. Ajay sends the DME changes and your turner applies them to your tune file
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
