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Finding audio signal in boot of C 63 AMG - (subwoofer installation)
Hi!
I got C 63 amg convertible (W205) and I want to install subwoofer. It's class D active subwoofer so I do not need external amplifier. I believe I should be able to find all the connections necessary to install that sub in the boot, but I am not sure about the wiring of this car at all.
I would appreciate if I can get any help from you folks. I made some pictures (and I will upload video too that I managed to record from inside that boot), would you be able to help me to understand if any of the wires visible on these pictures is what I need ?
And what I need is:
There's a bench of wires visible when looking from the back of the car (from outside boot to the inside of car through boot) that leads to small box - could this be a place where audio signals and power/remote are available (maybe factory prepared for subwoofer or rear speakers - that I do not have installed)?
Thank you so much !!!!
Viewed from inside of car Viewed from the back of the car (it's around/below area for rear speakers (which I do not have installed)) Viewed from the back of the car(it's around/below area for rear speakers (which I do not have installed)) Viewed from inside of car
Curious about this as well for a 2017 C63s Coupe (PFL).
Looking to add an 8" powered subwoofer (i.e. Alpine PWE-S8) which I'm thinking could be mounted under the front seats, or maybe in the trunk (on the back seat).
Would I use a line output converter to tap into OEM sub/speaker wires?
How do you run power & ground cables to the battery? Battery in the trunk? Engine bay? On which posts (assuming with a ring terminal).
Where does the remote wire run to?
Is anyone running a similar set-up with Apple Car Play/Android Auto unit (i.e. RoadTop or JoyeAuto) via Bluetooth? How is the audio quality?
Do your cars have the Burmester sound system? My 2016 sedan does and the amp and speaker wires to tap into are behind the passenger side panel in the trunk. It's a bit inconvenient to access. It's bolted to a bracket rear of the wheel well. The battery terminals are easily accessible nearby, as the battery is under the bottom tray under the lift up trunk panel. I purchased a jumper harness that you plug in between the wiring harness and the amp so I could access all of the speaker level outputs I needed, which I fed into the high/speaker level inputs on my amp. I'm feeding the amp output back out through the same harness out to the factory speakers. I'm using the auto power on feature of my amp, so did not pin down a switched remote power wire.
I used the factory manual schematic to identify the terminals for the speaker outputs. I haven't completed the finishing details of my installs and fortunately still have the panel loosely connected. I went out and disconnected the amp harness plug, pulled the cover off so you can see the wires down to the pins. The RT Sub speaker out is the Purple twisted pair. The LT Sub speaker out is the Pink twisted pair. The one with the black stripe is the positive (according to my interpretation of the schematic). If you want to run your new sub only and not the footwell subs, you'll need to cut the wires and just go from the amp out to your amp in or high level converter. If you want to keep the stock subs working and just augment(my recommendation), you can just tap into the wire to feed your amp. You'll definitely need a low pass crossover on your sub amp as the factory system feeds a full range or near full range signal to the factory subs, which you don't want augmented with your sub. I hope this helps.
Bryan
Last edited by topgearbryan; Jan 25, 2022 at 01:38 PM.
Reason: updated image
It does have a LP filter, so I can set the appropriate top end of the frequency range for the amp/sub combo, while still letting the OE footwell subs maintain their standard frequencies.
It looks like I’ll need a similar jumper adapter to splice into. The Alpine unit comes with a harness/adapter that takes care of everything (power, ground, remote and L&R speaker inputs.
Which jumper did you use? What is it called so I can do some research and find one.
I wouldn't bother with the harness. They are called T Harnesses and were more common to allow you to inject phone audio into your stereo system. Our cars already have that technology. The harnesses that were available were for previous models but some used the same connectors so we could leverage them for this purpose instead. I looked online and don't see any on ebay or amazon or ebay any longer. They were only from Europe and were pretty spendy to purchase and ship. Parrot was one brand. It was worth it to me as I tapped into several speaker wires, both to the amp and to the speakers. If you go down that road, you'll need to look up a wiring schematic for your car as the t harness is not intended for this application and you're on your own for wiring. For your proposed application, all you need to do is tap into, not cut, the pink pair of wires and the purple pair of wires and run them to your speaker level inputs on your amp. You can get inexpensive wire tap fittings from a local auto parts store and you'll be set. Set your amp to speaker sense for power on and you won't need a remote wire. Just run a wire with fuse to the battery in back and the ground to a solid ground point and you'll be good. I can't guarantee that your coupe wiring colors are the same as those in my sedan but wanted to post what I could to help. I wish you the best with your install. If it helps, the speaker wire bundle from the amp in my sedan flows forward under the passenger side back seat. You may be able to identify and tap into these wires in a more convenient place than under the side panel in the trunk.
I wouldn't bother with the harness. They are called T Harnesses and were more common to allow you to inject phone audio into your stereo system. Our cars already have that technology. The harnesses that were available were for previous models but some used the same connectors so we could leverage them for this purpose instead. I looked online and don't see any on ebay or amazon or ebay any longer. They were only from Europe and were pretty spendy to purchase and ship. Parrot was one brand. It was worth it to me as I tapped into several speaker wires, both to the amp and to the speakers. If you go down that road, you'll need to look up a wiring schematic for your car as the t harness is not intended for this application and you're on your own for wiring. For your proposed application, all you need to do is tap into, not cut, the pink pair of wires and the purple pair of wires and run them to your speaker level inputs on your amp. You can get inexpensive wire tap fittings from a local auto parts store and you'll be set. Set your amp to speaker sense for power on and you won't need a remote wire. Just run a wire with fuse to the battery in back and the ground to a solid ground point and you'll be good. I can't guarantee that your coupe wiring colors are the same as those in my sedan but wanted to post what I could to help. I wish you the best with your install. If it helps, the speaker wire bundle from the amp in my sedan flows forward under the passenger side back seat. You may be able to identify and tap into these wires in a more convenient place than under the side panel in the trunk.
Thanks @topgearbryan , appreciate the input. Do you happen to know what gauge the speaker wire on the Buremester system is?
Ended up ordering the Kicker 46HS10 (10" 180w powered woofer). I will do exactly what you said and use a T-tap wire connector (pictured below) to tap into the LH and RH woofer signals.
Thanks @topgearbryan , appreciate the input. Do you happen to know what gauge the speaker wire on the Buremester system is?
Ended up ordering the Kicker 46HS10 (10" 180w powered woofer). I will do exactly what you said and use a T-tap wire connector (pictured below) to tap into the LH and RH woofer signals.
following! The system definitely needs a little punch.
I am also interested in possible adding a compact power subwoofer. I have a 21 C63S cabriolet so my location selection would be limited. I'm not sure if it will fit under the seats without sticking out slightly behind the seat. For the few times per year I have people sitting in the rear seats, I guess I could disconnect the wiring harness and remove the sub if needed.
Has anyone else with a cabriolet used a subwoofer? If so, where did you mount it? If C63polar is still following this thread, what did you end up doing? Thank you!
Here's a link to the wiring diagram for the Burmester. I just did a sub install in my own car with a JL setup. It's fairly painless if I'm being honest since you have everything you need in the same place (power, fuses, speaker level wires to tap in to).
Here's a link to the wiring diagram for the Burmester. I just did a sub install in my own car with a JL setup. It's fairly painless if I'm being honest since you have everything you need in the same place (power, fuses, speaker level wires to tap in to).
My only issue is I haven't figured out a great place to mount my amp yet that hides it out of the way, it's slightly too large to hide anywhere.
thanks. You have a coupe, cab or sedan?
looking to mount my amp/sub combo on the back of my drivers side folding rear seat. Not sure if the screws will grab into the seat enough to stay in place, purely from the weight of the unit and acceleration forces.
The amp connection isn't under the trunk panel, it is to the right behind the panel, you have to remove a few pop-clips and peel it away, there will be a connection for the trunk light you'll have to disconnect and then you'll see the connection to the amp there.
The amp connection isn't under the trunk panel, it is to the right behind the panel, you have to remove a few pop-clips and peel it away, there will be a connection for the trunk light you'll have to disconnect and then you'll see the connection to the amp there.
On the right side of the trunk against the right rear quarter panel?
do you run power and ground right to the battery posts?
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Finding audio signal in boot of C 63 AMG - (subwoofer installation)
