Catted DP, spacers, now with P0060 Code - heater resistance bank... Help
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 306
Likes: 27
From: Earth
C63S, 2004 S4, 2001 S4 Avant
Catted DP, spacers, now with P0060 Code - heater resistance bank... Help
Hey all, this is a continuation but new issue of catted DP with bigdaddy spacers. Original discussion here: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...3-coupe-9.html
So I had DP installed end of August, spacers arrived and installed, but one side required a 90 degree adapter. I have been driving code free since 7SEP, and then today was coming from the shop for cosmetic work, and I get CEL, and the code is P0060 (Generic - Powertrain) H)2S Heater Resistance Bank 2 Sensor 2 as Confirmed and Pending codes. I tried clearing it and it would not clear. It also felt like I had less power in all modes (especially S+). Looking it up, it seems like the O2 sensor is not heating enough and so it is throwing a fault. I have not come across much info about the P0060 code, but there was a W212 Discussion about it here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...need-help.html .
It sounds like one of the O2 sensors is not heating up properly all of a sudden - it was 70 degrees out today, and I have driven the car with spacers on days that were 45 degrees, so environment is not likely the cause. Could the sensor have gone bad, or do I just need to get the sensor hotter? I would like to avoid tuning the ECU to minimize problems with the warranty, so prefer a physical fix. Some of the solutions recommended in the thread above were to use a shorter spacer or wrap the sensor in heat wrap - would the turbo blanket from Modal have the same effect, since it effectively traps the heat in the direction of the exhaust and cats?
Anyone else tried any other solutions?
So I had DP installed end of August, spacers arrived and installed, but one side required a 90 degree adapter. I have been driving code free since 7SEP, and then today was coming from the shop for cosmetic work, and I get CEL, and the code is P0060 (Generic - Powertrain) H)2S Heater Resistance Bank 2 Sensor 2 as Confirmed and Pending codes. I tried clearing it and it would not clear. It also felt like I had less power in all modes (especially S+). Looking it up, it seems like the O2 sensor is not heating enough and so it is throwing a fault. I have not come across much info about the P0060 code, but there was a W212 Discussion about it here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...need-help.html .
It sounds like one of the O2 sensors is not heating up properly all of a sudden - it was 70 degrees out today, and I have driven the car with spacers on days that were 45 degrees, so environment is not likely the cause. Could the sensor have gone bad, or do I just need to get the sensor hotter? I would like to avoid tuning the ECU to minimize problems with the warranty, so prefer a physical fix. Some of the solutions recommended in the thread above were to use a shorter spacer or wrap the sensor in heat wrap - would the turbo blanket from Modal have the same effect, since it effectively traps the heat in the direction of the exhaust and cats?
Anyone else tried any other solutions?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 306
Likes: 27
From: Earth
C63S, 2004 S4, 2001 S4 Avant
I was hoping to avoid doing that. The car is 1 year old and DP have been on for 2 months, so it would be frustrating for O2 sensor to fail already
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 385
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From: ATL
2020 C63S Coupe, 2021 Bmw X5M Competition
Just so you know, I had to replace one of my O2 sensors also while going back and forth with spacers. They are very sensitive. It was clear that O2 had gone bad looking at live data. It seems like your O2 sensor heater is malfunctioning.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 306
Likes: 27
From: Earth
C63S, 2004 S4, 2001 S4 Avant
I had to add a 90 degree adapter and the Big Daddy spacer on one side, so I was assuming that the O2 sensor is not heating adequately being separated from the downpipe.. Hence the thought that placing heat wrap, as mentioned in the other thread, might help.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 385
Likes: 95
From: ATL
2020 C63S Coupe, 2021 Bmw X5M Competition
When you say O2 sensor heater, you mean on the actual unit? So replacing it should do the trick?
I had to add a 90 degree adapter and the Big Daddy spacer on one side, so I was assuming that the O2 sensor is not heating adequately being separated from the downpipe.. Hence the thought that placing heat wrap, as mentioned in the other thread, might help.
I had to add a 90 degree adapter and the Big Daddy spacer on one side, so I was assuming that the O2 sensor is not heating adequately being separated from the downpipe.. Hence the thought that placing heat wrap, as mentioned in the other thread, might help.
Basic four-wire O2 sensors are still used as catalyst monitors and labeled sensor S2 on bank 1 or bank 2 (B1S2 or B2S2). The heater brings the sensor up to operating temperature quickly so it can begin working as soon as possible. The PCM monitors the heater circuits continuously, checking resistance for an open circuit or short to ground.
If a problem is detected, the PCM will set a code and turn on the malfunction indicator light (MIL), but the sensor can still produce a signal if the exhaust gas keeps it hot enough.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 306
Likes: 27
From: Earth
C63S, 2004 S4, 2001 S4 Avant
Sensor heater is heated with electricity but will use exhaust gases for heat also.Sensor heaters
Basic four-wire O2 sensors are still used as catalyst monitors and labeled sensor S2 on bank 1 or bank 2 (B1S2 or B2S2). The heater brings the sensor up to operating temperature quickly so it can begin working as soon as possible. The PCM monitors the heater circuits continuously, checking resistance for an open circuit or short to ground.
If a problem is detected, the PCM will set a code and turn on the malfunction indicator light (MIL), but the sensor can still produce a signal if the exhaust gas keeps it hot enough.
Basic four-wire O2 sensors are still used as catalyst monitors and labeled sensor S2 on bank 1 or bank 2 (B1S2 or B2S2). The heater brings the sensor up to operating temperature quickly so it can begin working as soon as possible. The PCM monitors the heater circuits continuously, checking resistance for an open circuit or short to ground.
If a problem is detected, the PCM will set a code and turn on the malfunction indicator light (MIL), but the sensor can still produce a signal if the exhaust gas keeps it hot enough.
Replacing the sensor is easy, but I want to keep this from recurring. Hence, the thought of retaining the heat in that area, like with a wrap or turbo blanket.
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 42
Likes: 11
2005 C55, 2016 c63s
I doubt that the heater failure is related to anything you have done with spacers etc. Unless you were really hard on the wires when they were installed. Some people twist them on install if they were unable to unplug the sensor at the factory location.
There are 100's of thousands of cars out there running similar setups, without problems. I've had O2 sensors with failed heater curcuits right out of the box.
Around 2000 Federal Law mandated that emissions equipment, including O2 sensors be warranted for 8 yrs or 100,000miles. It has since been pulled back to 7/80k i believe. (It's not a warranty any manufacturer advertises but if you take them to task, they have to honour it)
You could put your car back to stock and go get a free one.... But is that going to happen?
On our cars sensor 2 is only to provide feedback on Cat functionality. Perhaps a tuner could code them off for you. Then you won't have any codes pop up
There are 100's of thousands of cars out there running similar setups, without problems. I've had O2 sensors with failed heater curcuits right out of the box.
Around 2000 Federal Law mandated that emissions equipment, including O2 sensors be warranted for 8 yrs or 100,000miles. It has since been pulled back to 7/80k i believe. (It's not a warranty any manufacturer advertises but if you take them to task, they have to honour it)
You could put your car back to stock and go get a free one.... But is that going to happen?
On our cars sensor 2 is only to provide feedback on Cat functionality. Perhaps a tuner could code them off for you. Then you won't have any codes pop up
Last edited by RyanL; Nov 7, 2020 at 06:31 PM.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 306
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From: Earth
C63S, 2004 S4, 2001 S4 Avant
Okay, so an update that has me perplexed. First a little background on the code.
3 days ago I took the car to a PDR guy and on the way had the tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) light come on, with pressure 37-39 all around (I cannot remember if the CEL came on). When I picked up the car, that is when the CEL came on. I just took the car this morning to air up the tires, drove it home (both CEL and TPMS lights on). When I started it up later, bot the TPMS and CEL were gone.
are these two warning related? It makes no sense, but the fact that one came on and off with the other, makes me suspicious.
3 days ago I took the car to a PDR guy and on the way had the tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) light come on, with pressure 37-39 all around (I cannot remember if the CEL came on). When I picked up the car, that is when the CEL came on. I just took the car this morning to air up the tires, drove it home (both CEL and TPMS lights on). When I started it up later, bot the TPMS and CEL were gone.
are these two warning related? It makes no sense, but the fact that one came on and off with the other, makes me suspicious.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 306
Likes: 27
From: Earth
C63S, 2004 S4, 2001 S4 Avant
I agree they are separate systems. The part that is perplexing me now is that the P0060 code is gone and I did nothing. Shoot, I tried clearing it the other day twice and it kept coming back.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 42
Likes: 11
2005 C55, 2016 c63s
What is so perplexing about this? Do you work on cars all day? I do. There is nothing weird or uncommon about your issue. Can the sudden loss of the code be explained? Possibly, but would you believe it if I told you that it's possible for a wire to be partially broken in the insulation making an intermittent connection thus explaining intermittent light situation. Is it possibly a car wiring issue? Is it possibly a computer issue? Yes, it is. But when you are paying 150/hr to diagnose this, the first place you start is to replace the relatively cheap sensor with a known good one.
It's possible, but very rare for the ecu to mislead you, and you usually can't figure that out until you've changed the sensor and then verified the wiring, finally replacing the computer.. That is the order this problem gets solved with.
If you are super cheap and have diagnostic equipment you could test the wiring and heater circuit side of the O2 sensor first. But what is your time worth?
Are you going to drive around now waiting for and worrying about the MIL light coming on again?
Or would you rather i tell you to do something crazy like remove your downpipes and have them ceramic coated inside and out which will help with containing heat in your exhaust to warm a sensor that the ecu didn't ever say wasn't warm enough?
It's possible, but very rare for the ecu to mislead you, and you usually can't figure that out until you've changed the sensor and then verified the wiring, finally replacing the computer.. That is the order this problem gets solved with.
If you are super cheap and have diagnostic equipment you could test the wiring and heater circuit side of the O2 sensor first. But what is your time worth?
Are you going to drive around now waiting for and worrying about the MIL light coming on again?
Or would you rather i tell you to do something crazy like remove your downpipes and have them ceramic coated inside and out which will help with containing heat in your exhaust to warm a sensor that the ecu didn't ever say wasn't warm enough?
Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 98
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18'GLC63
Hey all, this is a continuation but new issue of catted DP with bigdaddy spacers. Original discussion here: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...3-coupe-9.html
So I had DP installed end of August, spacers arrived and installed, but one side required a 90 degree adapter. I have been driving code free since 7SEP, and then today was coming from the shop for cosmetic work, and I get CEL, and the code is P0060 (Generic - Powertrain) H)2S Heater Resistance Bank 2 Sensor 2 as Confirmed and Pending codes. I tried clearing it and it would not clear. It also felt like I had less power in all modes (especially S+). Looking it up, it seems like the O2 sensor is not heating enough and so it is throwing a fault. I have not come across much info about the P0060 code, but there was a W212 Discussion about it here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...need-help.html .
It sounds like one of the O2 sensors is not heating up properly all of a sudden - it was 70 degrees out today, and I have driven the car with spacers on days that were 45 degrees, so environment is not likely the cause. Could the sensor have gone bad, or do I just need to get the sensor hotter? I would like to avoid tuning the ECU to minimize problems with the warranty, so prefer a physical fix. Some of the solutions recommended in the thread above were to use a shorter spacer or wrap the sensor in heat wrap - would the turbo blanket from Modal have the same effect, since it effectively traps the heat in the direction of the exhaust and cats?
Anyone else tried any other solutions?
So I had DP installed end of August, spacers arrived and installed, but one side required a 90 degree adapter. I have been driving code free since 7SEP, and then today was coming from the shop for cosmetic work, and I get CEL, and the code is P0060 (Generic - Powertrain) H)2S Heater Resistance Bank 2 Sensor 2 as Confirmed and Pending codes. I tried clearing it and it would not clear. It also felt like I had less power in all modes (especially S+). Looking it up, it seems like the O2 sensor is not heating enough and so it is throwing a fault. I have not come across much info about the P0060 code, but there was a W212 Discussion about it here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...need-help.html .
It sounds like one of the O2 sensors is not heating up properly all of a sudden - it was 70 degrees out today, and I have driven the car with spacers on days that were 45 degrees, so environment is not likely the cause. Could the sensor have gone bad, or do I just need to get the sensor hotter? I would like to avoid tuning the ECU to minimize problems with the warranty, so prefer a physical fix. Some of the solutions recommended in the thread above were to use a shorter spacer or wrap the sensor in heat wrap - would the turbo blanket from Modal have the same effect, since it effectively traps the heat in the direction of the exhaust and cats?
Anyone else tried any other solutions?
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Joined: Nov 2004
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2005 E55
What is your mode 6 data on your rear o2s? You might be a little off and is causing the fault. Stock cars are around 131 on each side. I'm betting you are off on the side with the 90 degree adapter.
