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just did my A0 service and feel like I got ripped off.
This is my first mercedes and I feel like I got ripped off doing this service.
Also the quote for my brake job seems overly excessive. Can anyone recommend what I should pay to do it from now on?
Parts and labor look about right to me (most of the bill is based upon pads and rotors for the front and rear). The question is whether or not you actually needed rotors. Many MB dealerships seem to over-recommend rotor replacement.
Last edited by C43HeartBoost; 08-14-2021 at 04:08 PM.
Parts and labor look about right to me (most of the bill is based upon pads and rotors for the front and rear). The question is whether or not you actually needed rotors. Many MB dealerships seems to over-recommend rotor replacement.
Ok great thanks a lot.
I also felt like I don't need to change the rotors and only the pads.
Ok great thanks a lot.
I also felt like I don't need to change the rotors and only the pads.
That is pretty common. I believe many AMG techs are trained to recommend a rotor replacement when changing pads. Given that your car is a 2018, if the rotors had not been changed before then they may have needed replacement (depending on driving style / track use, etc.).
That is pretty common. I believe many AMG techs are trained to recommend a rotor replacement when changing pads. Given that your car is a 2018, if the rotors had not been changed before then they may have needed replacement (depending on driving style / track use, etc.).
Thanks for that! I definitely don't track the car but I do drive fast as hell sometimes. But its more of a island cruiser.
Current: 2017 C63S Prior: 2016 CLA45, 2015 Evo X Final Edition
You're always going to get ripped off at a dealership. The majority of that work can be done yourself at a fraction of the cost. I don't know what the situation is in HI but at the very least find a reliable indy mechanic and it will save you some serious money.
As previously mentioned, Service tells you MB recommends a rotor replacement with every pad replacement. Sometimes its necessary; many times the rotor has more than adequate surface left to be reused. I believe MB doesn't recommend rotor turning or resurfacing (cutting).
1) If your stealership charges a lot of service, consider prepaid maintenance. It saves me a lot of money where I'm at, esp given you can get the plans for bottom dollar pricing from Jeff Jackson: jjackson@mblouisville.com
2) For brakes, there's two ways to do it IMO. Be actively involved, ask the rotor thickness, discuss w/ tech (not service guy) if they NEED replacement or not, and if you're absolutely dead set on OEM, you probably want to have that service done at an Indy shop for about half the cost, using OEM parts
OR
Save even more money, and order OEM-replacement quality parts from FCP Euro and utilize their LIFETIME warranty on parts (even rotors, pads, fluids, etc): https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee, and have the work done at an Indy shop. Yes the warranty is legit.
You're always going to get ripped off at a dealership. The majority of that work can be done yourself at a fraction of the cost. I don't know what the situation is in HI but at the very least find a reliable indy mechanic and it will save you some serious money.
^^^This! All of this can be done yourself or at an independent Mercedes specialist for 1000's less.
As previously mentioned, Service tells you MB recommends a rotor replacement with every pad replacement. Sometimes its necessary; many times the rotor has more than adequate surface left to be reused. I believe MB doesn't recommend rotor turning or resurfacing (cutting).
1) If your stealership charges a lot of service, consider prepaid maintenance. It saves me a lot of money where I'm at, esp given you can get the plans for bottom dollar pricing from Jeff Jackson: jjackson@mblouisville.com
2) For brakes, there's two ways to do it IMO. Be actively involved, ask the rotor thickness, discuss w/ tech (not service guy) if they NEED replacement or not, and if you're absolutely dead set on OEM, you probably want to have that service done at an Indy shop for about half the cost, using OEM parts
OR
Save even more money, and order OEM-replacement quality parts from FCP Euro and utilize their LIFETIME warranty on parts (even rotors, pads, fluids, etc): https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee, and have the work done at an Indy shop. Yes the warranty is legit.
Wow, the prices the stealership in Hawaii has quoted you does seem extremely high. I'm not sure if some of this due to the "Hawaii" factor. An A service in ATX is roughly $250-$325 at the stealer. The $474 they charged you for an A service is what a B service would cost in my market. I personally did my A service myself as is essentially an oil change and an easy DIY. Its also interesting that they recommended that you change your engine air filter as that's typically done with a B service.
You're suspicion on the brake job is correct. They're quote for parts is outrageous! You can find OEM parts online for at least half of what they've quoted you. Check sites like FCP Euro or RockAuto. Brakes are also a simple DIY, or I recommend trying to find an independed mechanic that specializes in european autos who will most likely charge you less than $200/hr for labour. As others have said, the most stealers want to replace rotors with pads. However, this isn't required as long as there is no uneven wear on your rotors, they're above the minimum thickness and don't have cracks connecting the cross drilled holes or to the edge of the rotor. With you're car only having 11k miles on it, I'd be surprised if your rotors need replacement. 5MM left on your front pads is quite a bit, and i'd expect that they easily last you another year.
They're cost for a replacement tire seems high. I'd think you'd be able to get the tire cheaper at places like Costco, Tire Rack or another local retailer. What's funny is they can't even get the tread depth correct between the invoice and quote. Its listed as 4MM remaining on your service invoice, but mysteriously changes to 3MM on the replacement quote.
Wow, the prices the stealership in Hawaii has quoted you does seem extremely high. I'm not sure if some of this due to the "Hawaii" factor. An A service in ATX is roughly $250-$325 at the stealer. The $474 they charged you for an A service is what a B service would cost in my market. I personally did my A service myself as is essentially an oil change and an easy DIY. Its also interesting that they recommended that you change your engine air filter as that's typically done with a B service.
You're suspicion on the brake job is correct. They're quote for parts is outrageous! You can find OEM parts online for at least half of what they've quoted you. Check sites like FCP Euro or RockAuto. Brakes are also a simple DIY, or I recommend trying to find an independed mechanic that specializes in european autos who will most likely charge you less than $200/hr for labour. As others have said, the most stealers want to replace rotors with pads. However, this isn't required as long as there is no uneven wear on your rotors, they're above the minimum thickness and don't have cracks connecting the cross drilled holes or to the edge of the rotor. With you're car only having 11k miles on it, I'd be surprised if your rotors need replacement. 5MM left on your front pads is quite a bit, and i'd expect that they easily last you another year.
They're cost for a replacement tire seems high. I'd think you'd be able to get the tire cheaper at places like Costco, Tire Rack or another local retailer. What's funny is they can't even get the tread depth correct between the invoice and quote. Its listed as 4MM remaining on your service invoice, but mysteriously changes to 3MM on the replacement quote.
Thanks a lot I didn't think rotors were bad either. I don't know much about cars but they look fine to me. I will order breaks from the fcp website and I will search for a local mercedes tech to do my maintenance from now on. I'll also look into Costco for tires. Nice catch I didn't see that at all.
Almost forgot; what's the Ethanol Defense Kit? Not familiar with it. Googled it and looks like it's a cleaning additive. Surprised Mercedes would use something like that vs some big (price) brand like BG?
Almost forgot; what's the Ethanol Defense Kit? Not familiar with it. Googled it and looks like it's a cleaning additive. Surprised Mercedes would use something like that vs some big (price) brand like BG?
Just noticed that I never requested to have that added. Now I definitely know to avoid this stealership
As I've previously posted, many Mercedes (probably most AMG) rotors have wear indicators so, if the rotors are not gouged and/or have excessive cracks, they don't need to be replaced until the wear-indicator divots disappear ... and WIS does specify that rotors should be inspected for defects/wear, NOT just automatically replaced. Rotors normally last through 2-3 pad sets (even with track running). Pads and rotors are also a relatively simple job on C63 models and are quite do-able by any DIY/handy type with some common tools (and videos exist). As has been posted, FCP Euro is a great place to get parts.
The pad-wear warning indicator is hit when about 3 mm of pad remains. For normal street driving, you'll easily have 1k-2K mi (or more) before you're in danger (i.e., of having the metal pad backing hit the rotor ... which will gouge it [don't ask ... track-use oops!]). Replacing at 5 mm (for street use) is giving up thousands of miles of pad life.
As I've previously posted, many Mercedes (probably most AMG) rotors have wear indicators so, if the rotors are not gouged and/or have excessive cracks, they don't need to be replaced until the wear-indicator divots disappear ... and WIS does specify that rotors should be inspected for defects/wear, NOT just automatically replaced. Rotors normally last through 2-3 pad sets (even with track running). Pads and rotors are also a relatively simple job on C63 models and are quite do-able by any DIY/handy type with some common tools (and videos exist). As has been posted, FCP Euro is a great place to get parts.
The pad-wear warning indicator is hit when about 3 mm of pad remains. For normal street driving, you'll easily have 1k-2K mi (or more) before you're in danger (i.e., of having the metal pad backing hit the rotor ... which will gouge it [don't ask ... track-use oops!]). Replacing at 5 mm (for street use) is giving up thousands of miles of pad life.
Seriously thanks so much I actually learned something today. I'll have to check that then! I'll be looking for a independent shop to do it.
As I've previously posted, many Mercedes (probably most AMG) rotors have wear indicators so, if the rotors are not gouged and/or have excessive cracks, they don't need to be replaced until the wear-indicator divots disappear ... and WIS does specify that rotors should be inspected for defects/wear, NOT just automatically replaced. Rotors normally last through 2-3 pad sets (even with track running). Pads and rotors are also a relatively simple job on C63 models and are quite do-able by any DIY/handy type with some common tools (and videos exist). As has been posted, FCP Euro is a great place to get parts.
The pad-wear warning indicator is hit when about 3 mm of pad remains. For normal street driving, you'll easily have 1k-2K mi (or more) before you're in danger (i.e., of having the metal pad backing hit the rotor ... which will gouge it [don't ask ... track-use oops!]). Replacing at 5 mm (for street use) is giving up thousands of miles of pad life.
i didnt know about this. when you say rotors dont need to be replaced until those divots disappear, does that mean refer to all of them or? Thanks.
i didnt know about this. when you say rotors dont need to be replaced until those divots disappear, does that mean refer to all of them or? Thanks.
When any of the divots are "erased" (worn through), the rotor is due for replacement. I'd guess that either the inside or outside row of divots will disappear first as brake wear is typically slightly uneven. If you look at your brakes every 6 months or so (depending upon your yearly mileage), you should be able to get a feel for how the rotors and pads are wearing. For track running, you should be thoroughly inspecting brakes before and after each track day and, during a track day, you should check the pad wear after each session.
In general, for wear items (e.g., brakes and tires), it's always good to try to develop a feel for how things are wearing. That way, you're not only prepared for replacements but are also better equipped to know if someone is "feeding you a line" w.r.t. maintenance issues.
08-14-2021, 03:40 PM
