Need advice to improve handling
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 4
Likes: 2
W205 C63 AMG coupe
Need advice to improve handling
I have a PTG W205 C63 AMG coupe build. My car is currently producing almost 900 RWHP. My mods include PTG race downpipes, PTG air intakes, PTG 1000 turbos, PTG high pressure fuel pumps, and PTG BOVs. Other mods include CFS heat exchanger, ZAC motorsports auxiliary heat exchanger, and Valvetronics exhaust. My car is tuned with VPX MS109 race fuel. It also has a TCU tune as well. It is Selenite Grey metallic with a complete PPF matte wrap. I have done chrome delete and black badging. The brake calibers have been painted red. The wheels are currently factory and have been painted gloss black. I have Toyos R888R tires.
The car is hands down a beast. The acceleration is scary to the point where I feel I am on the verge of losing control. It has become very apparent to me that the car needs significant improvement in the handling department. I open to any suggestions this community has in helping me build a car that is more geared towards the track than the street. My car isn't a daily driver so I don't car about tire wear or comfort. Improved handling is most important to me.
The car is hands down a beast. The acceleration is scary to the point where I feel I am on the verge of losing control. It has become very apparent to me that the car needs significant improvement in the handling department. I open to any suggestions this community has in helping me build a car that is more geared towards the track than the street. My car isn't a daily driver so I don't car about tire wear or comfort. Improved handling is most important to me.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 45
Likes: 12
From: California
C63 S AMG
I have a PTG W205 C63 AMG coupe build. My car is currently producing almost 900 RWHP. My mods include PTG race downpipes, PTG air intakes, PTG 1000 turbos, PTG high pressure fuel pumps, and PTG BOVs. Other mods include CFS heat exchanger, ZAC motorsports auxiliary heat exchanger, and Valvetronics exhaust. My car is tuned with VPX MS109 race fuel. It also has a TCU tune as well. It is Selenite Grey metallic with a complete PPF matte wrap. I have done chrome delete and black badging. The brake calibers have been painted red. The wheels are currently factory and have been painted gloss black. I have Toyos R888R tires.
The car is hands down a beast. The acceleration is scary to the point where I feel I am on the verge of losing control. It has become very apparent to me that the car needs significant improvement in the handling department. I open to any suggestions this community has in helping me build a car that is more geared towards the track than the street. My car isn't a daily driver so I don't car about tire wear or comfort. Improved handling is most important to me.
The car is hands down a beast. The acceleration is scary to the point where I feel I am on the verge of losing control. It has become very apparent to me that the car needs significant improvement in the handling department. I open to any suggestions this community has in helping me build a car that is more geared towards the track than the street. My car isn't a daily driver so I don't car about tire wear or comfort. Improved handling is most important to me.
The R888R like to be ran warm and will lower pressures.
With that amount of power, your throttle input needs to be very refined and traction management will require work (From you, not TCS), but I would re-tune to move top torque and power towards the top of the range.
All that said, its still a heavy car and can only corner so well because of this. Corner exit should be the focus here. Slow in, fast out. Assuming your build is for track and not street.
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,702
Likes: 178
Mercedes-Benz CLK 550
Hi
When it comes to suspension and handling we manufacture a “TOTAL SYSTEM” for the C63’S’ Coupe (and virtually all Benz models back to 1968).
EVEN THOUGH A PERFORMANCE AMG MODEL THERE IS ONLY FRONT AND REAR TOE “DIRECTIONAL” ADJUSTMENT !
NO FRONT CAMBER OR CASTER. NO REAR CAMBER !
All to do with cost cutting and ever increasing speed of new car assembly lines !
YET ESSENTIAL to combat costly, premature excess edge tire wear or on TRACK DAYS easily able to dial in “extra Neg. Camber” to hit those corner apexes every time and go deeper into the corners with increased traction and braking response. In the pursuit of front of the grid lap times.
SEE SPOILER:
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
When it comes to suspension and handling we manufacture a “TOTAL SYSTEM” for the C63’S’ Coupe (and virtually all Benz models back to 1968).
EVEN THOUGH A PERFORMANCE AMG MODEL THERE IS ONLY FRONT AND REAR TOE “DIRECTIONAL” ADJUSTMENT !
NO FRONT CAMBER OR CASTER. NO REAR CAMBER !
All to do with cost cutting and ever increasing speed of new car assembly lines !
YET ESSENTIAL to combat costly, premature excess edge tire wear or on TRACK DAYS easily able to dial in “extra Neg. Camber” to hit those corner apexes every time and go deeper into the corners with increased traction and braking response. In the pursuit of front of the grid lap times.
SEE SPOILER:
Spoiler
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
Last edited by K-Mac; May 20, 2024 at 12:28 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 315
From: Pearland, Tx
2020 AMG GTC Coupe & 2018 Macan Turbo
How bout dialing back on the HP and stay far away from me on the road. Almost 1,000 HP? Really? And you wonder why you’re on the edge of losing control….
😂
😂
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 568
Likes: 132
2007 E350
Get the rear toe arm from carbahn. It’s designed to not flex under acceleration. For me fishtailing is significantly reduced when heavy on throttle. Lowering springs helps, wider tires front and rear. Get stiffer bushing such as polyurethane or spherical. A little bit less torque also helps
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 4
Likes: 2
W205 C63 AMG coupe
Get the rear toe arm from carbahn. It’s designed to not flex under acceleration. For me fishtailing is significantly reduced when heavy on throttle. Lowering springs helps, wider tires front and rear. Get stiffer bushing such as polyurethane or spherical. A little bit less torque also helps
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 61
Likes: 26
From: Huntsville, Alabama
AMG C63s
Also purchase the Carbahn front lower arms. Game changer as it allows for camber adjustment. Don't bother with K Mac. Good for old cars not this new type
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Super Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 568
Likes: 132
2007 E350
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 568
Likes: 132
2007 E350
SPONSOR
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,702
Likes: 178
Mercedes-Benz CLK 550
WELL WE CERTAINLY DO (put in the effort…. and you get the results):
WITH K-MAC THEY’RE RACE PROVEN - The Strongest Camber & Caster adjuster kits constantly tested developed in all out heavy V8 competition racing. Situations where “Race Safety” scrutineers rule only K-MAC to be fitted.
…..AND WITH ALL THE “EXTRA” K-MAC FEATURES:
●Biggest Adjustment Range.
●Quickest To Fit.
●Ultimate Adjustment - Patented design / Single wrench direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD.
●Fraction of time to Accurately Adjust.
●Fraction of cost also (not philosophy / premise higher price dictates higher quality) !
….Then having “IN-HOUSE” manufacture of all facets of production - Ensures total control over quality and rapid / constant development !
SEE SPOILER
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
WITH K-MAC THEY’RE RACE PROVEN - The Strongest Camber & Caster adjuster kits constantly tested developed in all out heavy V8 competition racing. Situations where “Race Safety” scrutineers rule only K-MAC to be fitted.
…..AND WITH ALL THE “EXTRA” K-MAC FEATURES:
●Biggest Adjustment Range.
●Quickest To Fit.
●Ultimate Adjustment - Patented design / Single wrench direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD.
●Fraction of time to Accurately Adjust.
●Fraction of cost also (not philosophy / premise higher price dictates higher quality) !
….Then having “IN-HOUSE” manufacture of all facets of production - Ensures total control over quality and rapid / constant development !
SEE SPOILER
Spoiler
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
Last edited by K-Mac; May 21, 2024 at 06:57 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 308
Likes: 71
From: Charlotte, NC
17 C63S Coupe PTG1000
@finagawd - I basically have an identical build (down the color), with the addition of PTG's meth kit.
When you say "losing control" under acceleration, what do you mean? Does the end fishtail / sway back and forth? Is it just during the initial onset of boost?
I ask because I have the same issues, especially when I let off of throttle, the back end feels like it gets VERY light and sketchy when I start to brake. Weight transfer, momentum, I get it...ideally you don't slam on the brakes and shift all the weight forward immediately after you get out of WOT.
I am running H&R springs in the front, but stock springs in the rear, because of rear wheel clearance issues (rubbing on bumps, and when it squats during hard acceleration). I would LOVE to put the rear HR springs back on, but because of my wheel tire setup (20x11+50 on 305/30/20 NTRRR2), I fear it will rub.
I wonder if I throw on the Carbahn Rear Toe Arms, this will help mitigate my rubbing issues, and I can run the H&R springs. What I did notice is that the tire not only rubs on the outer fender (I had them rolled, slightly) but it also rubs on the inside back of the fender liner (near exhaust). I have 3MM spacers to try and move the tire out a bit, to avoid that rear inner rub.
Any thoughts?
When you say "losing control" under acceleration, what do you mean? Does the end fishtail / sway back and forth? Is it just during the initial onset of boost?
I ask because I have the same issues, especially when I let off of throttle, the back end feels like it gets VERY light and sketchy when I start to brake. Weight transfer, momentum, I get it...ideally you don't slam on the brakes and shift all the weight forward immediately after you get out of WOT.
I am running H&R springs in the front, but stock springs in the rear, because of rear wheel clearance issues (rubbing on bumps, and when it squats during hard acceleration). I would LOVE to put the rear HR springs back on, but because of my wheel tire setup (20x11+50 on 305/30/20 NTRRR2), I fear it will rub.
I wonder if I throw on the Carbahn Rear Toe Arms, this will help mitigate my rubbing issues, and I can run the H&R springs. What I did notice is that the tire not only rubs on the outer fender (I had them rolled, slightly) but it also rubs on the inside back of the fender liner (near exhaust). I have 3MM spacers to try and move the tire out a bit, to avoid that rear inner rub.
Any thoughts?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 308
Likes: 71
From: Charlotte, NC
17 C63S Coupe PTG1000
Get the rear toe arm from carbahn. It’s designed to not flex under acceleration. For me fishtailing is significantly reduced when heavy on throttle. Lowering springs helps, wider tires front and rear. Get stiffer bushing such as polyurethane or spherical. A little bit less torque also helps
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 380
From: Texas
10 C six trizzle
I would avoid lowering the car. Sure put the coilovers on - different spring rates and adjustable shocks are a plus but lowering will ruin the geometry. Every lowered 205 c63 i've ever driven drives very poorly. Likely because of the electric power steering rack algorithms but there's more to it than that. Lots of instability when lifting off the throttle. I'm not talking a handful of cars. This is atleast 30 different lowered ones vs 100+ stock suspension. Adjustable bushings to dial in front camber and caster to match will help a lot. However Kmacs will squeak and carbahn will pop and knock. Avoid anything with a heim joint if it's a "street car" as they are intended for track use only and regular inspection/replacement.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 568
Likes: 132
2007 E350
I would avoid lowering the car. Sure put the coilovers on - different spring rates and adjustable shocks are a plus but lowering will ruin the geometry. Every lowered 205 c63 i've ever driven drives very poorly. Likely because of the electric power steering rack algorithms but there's more to it than that. Lots of instability when lifting off the throttle. I'm not talking a handful of cars. This is atleast 30 different lowered ones vs 100+ stock suspension. Adjustable bushings to dial in front camber and caster to match will help a lot. However Kmacs will squeak and carbahn will pop and knock. Avoid anything with a heim joint if it's a "street car" as they are intended for track use only and regular inspection/replacement.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 380
From: Texas
10 C six trizzle
Youre likely not low enough to get the pops. Most people getting the bushings are slammed and looking to make the car not drive as poorly and save tires from -3.5* camber lol. I too agree comfort suspension mode is vastly superior to sport or sport+ unless you live on a race track normal streets are not suitable for these modes without really causing instability. Factory toe settings are crucial.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 568
Likes: 132
2007 E350
Youre likely not low enough to get the pops. Most people getting the bushings are slammed and looking to make the car not drive as poorly and save tires from -3.5* camber lol. I too agree comfort suspension mode is vastly superior to sport or sport+ unless you live on a race track normal streets are not suitable for these modes without really causing instability. Factory toe settings are crucial.
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 702
Likes: 30
From: Leesburg, VA
2017 C63S
what size tires are you running on the rears, I hope at least 305's.........I'm just a stage 2 tune at like 660 hp and with stock size I just spin or wheel hop all through 1st.....so I can't imagine 1k hp and how BAD that would be..... as soon as I burn through these current tires I am going wider and all summer. (yea, had A/S because of snow threat) but that is changing
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 4
Likes: 2
W205 C63 AMG coupe
@finagawd - I basically have an identical build (down the color), with the addition of PTG's meth kit.
When you say "losing control" under acceleration, what do you mean? Does the end fishtail / sway back and forth? Is it just during the initial onset of boost?
I ask because I have the same issues, especially when I let off of throttle, the back end feels like it gets VERY light and sketchy when I start to brake. Weight transfer, momentum, I get it...ideally you don't slam on the brakes and shift all the weight forward immediately after you get out of WOT.
I am running H&R springs in the front, but stock springs in the rear, because of rear wheel clearance issues (rubbing on bumps, and when it squats during hard acceleration). I would LOVE to put the rear HR springs back on, but because of my wheel tire setup (20x11+50 on 305/30/20 NTRRR2), I fear it will rub.
I wonder if I throw on the Carbahn Rear Toe Arms, this will help mitigate my rubbing issues, and I can run the H&R springs. What I did notice is that the tire not only rubs on the outer fender (I had them rolled, slightly) but it also rubs on the inside back of the fender liner (near exhaust). I have 3MM spacers to try and move the tire out a bit, to avoid that rear inner rub.
Any thoughts?
When you say "losing control" under acceleration, what do you mean? Does the end fishtail / sway back and forth? Is it just during the initial onset of boost?
I ask because I have the same issues, especially when I let off of throttle, the back end feels like it gets VERY light and sketchy when I start to brake. Weight transfer, momentum, I get it...ideally you don't slam on the brakes and shift all the weight forward immediately after you get out of WOT.
I am running H&R springs in the front, but stock springs in the rear, because of rear wheel clearance issues (rubbing on bumps, and when it squats during hard acceleration). I would LOVE to put the rear HR springs back on, but because of my wheel tire setup (20x11+50 on 305/30/20 NTRRR2), I fear it will rub.
I wonder if I throw on the Carbahn Rear Toe Arms, this will help mitigate my rubbing issues, and I can run the H&R springs. What I did notice is that the tire not only rubs on the outer fender (I had them rolled, slightly) but it also rubs on the inside back of the fender liner (near exhaust). I have 3MM spacers to try and move the tire out a bit, to avoid that rear inner rub.
Any thoughts?
The losing control feeling you described was what I had experienced which is what scared me. I was traveling at speeds greater than 140 mph. I had applied a small amount of brake pressure to slow down a bit as I was soon approaching a curve. The rear of the car instantly felt very light as if it was gliding across the road surface. I immediately stopped applying brake pressure because I felt the car was on the verge of losing control. The gliding feeling quickly dissipated as the vehicle deceased speed.
Other instance where I feel the handling diminishes is during hard acceleration from either a stand still or rolling start. I must say now that the weather is warmer, I feel the R888R tires are gripping better. I am not noticing as much fishtailing as I did when I first modded the car.
the KW coilovers and Carbahn Rear Toe Link Arm have arrived and are ready for install. I ordered K-Mac’s front and rear bushings kits which should be arriving within a week. Ended up ordering Vossen HC-1 wheels. We are going with 19”x9.5” front and 19”x10.5” rear. I’ll give a shoutout to Wheel Designers out of California. They gave me a great deal which motivated me to purchase more expensive forged wheels.
Once everything is installed, I’ll report back on handling differences.
SPONSOR
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,702
Likes: 178
Mercedes-Benz CLK 550
C63/S Coupe & Sedans, Wagons - Re the “Rear End” queries:
“Losing Control”, Fishtailing, “Toe Arm Misalignment”, “Bushing Squeak” or “Popping / Failure”.
…..AT K-MAC - IT’S A TOTAL MATCHED & TUNED SYSTEM !
(C63/S Performance Auto - yet no OEM adjustment ! We saw the need to cater for not only resolving costly, premature edge tire wear but also the pursuit of Front row of the grid lap times).
We have the experience of manufacturing Performance bushings and Adjuster kits - Longer than anyone else 60 years.
From the outset in 1964 it has been ultimate - testing / developing on the race track. Heavy V8’s full speed main straight then hitting corner race curbs. Fully launching then slamming down broadside lap after lap.
This combined with proudly not sourcing imports but “IN-HOUSE” manufacture which allows rapid / constant development.
NO BRAND COMES CLOSE - With 1,000’s sold and experience / know how re strength and reliability (and without bush squeaks - a matter of correct “initial” torque settings).
AND NO BRAND COMES CLOSE RE -
SPEED of fitment, EASE / ACCURACY of adjustment, ADJUSTMENT range and PRICING - Low realistic !!
SEE SPOILER - C63/S “TOTAL SYSTEM” Coupe, Sedan, Wagon !
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
“Losing Control”, Fishtailing, “Toe Arm Misalignment”, “Bushing Squeak” or “Popping / Failure”.
…..AT K-MAC - IT’S A TOTAL MATCHED & TUNED SYSTEM !
(C63/S Performance Auto - yet no OEM adjustment ! We saw the need to cater for not only resolving costly, premature edge tire wear but also the pursuit of Front row of the grid lap times).
We have the experience of manufacturing Performance bushings and Adjuster kits - Longer than anyone else 60 years.
From the outset in 1964 it has been ultimate - testing / developing on the race track. Heavy V8’s full speed main straight then hitting corner race curbs. Fully launching then slamming down broadside lap after lap.
This combined with proudly not sourcing imports but “IN-HOUSE” manufacture which allows rapid / constant development.
NO BRAND COMES CLOSE - With 1,000’s sold and experience / know how re strength and reliability (and without bush squeaks - a matter of correct “initial” torque settings).
AND NO BRAND COMES CLOSE RE -
SPEED of fitment, EASE / ACCURACY of adjustment, ADJUSTMENT range and PRICING - Low realistic !!
SEE SPOILER - C63/S “TOTAL SYSTEM” Coupe, Sedan, Wagon !
Spoiler
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
Last edited by K-Mac; May 28, 2024 at 09:06 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 308
Likes: 71
From: Charlotte, NC
17 C63S Coupe PTG1000
@finagawd Ive also ordered the Carbahn rear toe link kit.
I am running KMACs camber kit on the front. I’ve heard from the alignment shop (does track alignments, corner balancing etc) that this kit is very hard to adjust / get right. I wish there was a camber plate option where you could adjust from the strut tower (like a lot of BMWs and other makes have).
I know Modalworks has/had a rear billet camber arm - just not for the S model. I’m hoping they will make one. And I believe it replaces a different arm than the Carbahn rear toe arm?
I am running KMACs camber kit on the front. I’ve heard from the alignment shop (does track alignments, corner balancing etc) that this kit is very hard to adjust / get right. I wish there was a camber plate option where you could adjust from the strut tower (like a lot of BMWs and other makes have).
I know Modalworks has/had a rear billet camber arm - just not for the S model. I’m hoping they will make one. And I believe it replaces a different arm than the Carbahn rear toe arm?
SPONSOR
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,702
Likes: 178
Mercedes-Benz CLK 550
Re Front Camber plate option - W205 C63 has upper control arms. Unlike W204 C63 which has struts. Where yes for the W204 we also manufacture replacement top strut mounts that are adjustable from engine bay (but recommend only as a second option over the more beneficial lower arm adjusters).
Re alignment shop - hard to adjust / get right. It cannot get any simpler compared to all other brands.
Background is last 40 or so years adjusting bushes required time consuming removal of control arms. Pressing out bush then repressing in a offset bush at a particular clock setting. Example 1 O’Clock for 1 degree Camber. 3 O’Clock for 2 degrees.
The K-MAC patented invention changed all that. Now no special tools needed. No arm removal required !
NOW BUSH IS INSERTED IN ANY POSITION !
THEN ULTIMATE ADJUSTMENT:
Easily accessible “Precise Single Wrench” - Accurately direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD !
Revolution in design - initially “how can this possibly work”. But once you get your head around it. Align shops realise the simplicity (often said - simplest design is the best design).
Same with the C63S K-MAC “REAR” Camber (& Extra Toe) kits.
COUPE MODEL #502326-1K Game changer when compared to the OEM basic, inaccurate and minimal adjustment shims on this model !
K-MAC kit “replacing” and updating to A PRECISELY ACCURATE CAM WASHER ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM WITH 4 TIMES THE ADJUSTMENT RANGE (Plus uprating the soft rubber OEM bushes at the same time).
Same with Sedan and Wagons #502226K Camber (& Extra Toe) kit.
Similar design as Coupe and both rear kits exact same features as front.
SUMMARY - BILLET ARMS OR WHATEVER - “CANNOT SIMPLIFY any more” (Single Wrench / Precise adjustment under load) !!
Re alignment shop - hard to adjust / get right. It cannot get any simpler compared to all other brands.
Background is last 40 or so years adjusting bushes required time consuming removal of control arms. Pressing out bush then repressing in a offset bush at a particular clock setting. Example 1 O’Clock for 1 degree Camber. 3 O’Clock for 2 degrees.
The K-MAC patented invention changed all that. Now no special tools needed. No arm removal required !
NOW BUSH IS INSERTED IN ANY POSITION !
THEN ULTIMATE ADJUSTMENT:
Easily accessible “Precise Single Wrench” - Accurately direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD !
Revolution in design - initially “how can this possibly work”. But once you get your head around it. Align shops realise the simplicity (often said - simplest design is the best design).
Same with the C63S K-MAC “REAR” Camber (& Extra Toe) kits.
COUPE MODEL #502326-1K Game changer when compared to the OEM basic, inaccurate and minimal adjustment shims on this model !
K-MAC kit “replacing” and updating to A PRECISELY ACCURATE CAM WASHER ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM WITH 4 TIMES THE ADJUSTMENT RANGE (Plus uprating the soft rubber OEM bushes at the same time).
Same with Sedan and Wagons #502226K Camber (& Extra Toe) kit.
Similar design as Coupe and both rear kits exact same features as front.
SUMMARY - BILLET ARMS OR WHATEVER - “CANNOT SIMPLIFY any more” (Single Wrench / Precise adjustment under load) !!
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 308
Likes: 71
From: Charlotte, NC
17 C63S Coupe PTG1000
Re Front Camber plate option - W205 C63 has upper control arms. Unlike W204 C63 which has struts. Where yes for the W204 we also manufacture replacement top strut mounts that are adjustable from engine bay (but recommend only as a second option over the more beneficial lower arm adjusters).
Re alignment shop - hard to adjust / get right. It cannot get any simpler compared to all other brands.
Background is last 40 or so years adjusting bushes required time consuming removal of control arms. Pressing out bush then repressing in a offset bush at a particular clock setting. Example 1 O’Clock for 1 degree Camber. 3 O’Clock for 2 degrees.
The K-MAC patented invention changed all that. Now no special tools needed. No arm removal required !
NOW BUSH IS INSERTED IN ANY POSITION !
THEN ULTIMATE ADJUSTMENT:
Easily accessible “Precise Single Wrench” - Accurately direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD !
Revolution in design - initially “how can this possibly work”. But once you get your head around it. Align shops realise the simplicity (often said - simplest design is the best design).
Same with the C63S K-MAC “REAR” Camber (& Extra Toe) kits.
COUPE MODEL #502326-1K Game changer when compared to the OEM basic, inaccurate and minimal adjustment shims on this model !
K-MAC kit “replacing” and updating to A PRECISELY ACCURATE CAM WASHER ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM WITH 4 TIMES THE ADJUSTMENT RANGE (Plus uprating the soft rubber OEM bushes at the same time).
Same with Sedan and Wagons #502226K Camber (& Extra Toe) kit.
Similar design as Coupe and both rear kits exact same features as front.
SUMMARY - BILLET ARMS OR WHATEVER - “CANNOT SIMPLIFY any more” (Single Wrench / Precise adjustment under load) !!
Re alignment shop - hard to adjust / get right. It cannot get any simpler compared to all other brands.
Background is last 40 or so years adjusting bushes required time consuming removal of control arms. Pressing out bush then repressing in a offset bush at a particular clock setting. Example 1 O’Clock for 1 degree Camber. 3 O’Clock for 2 degrees.
The K-MAC patented invention changed all that. Now no special tools needed. No arm removal required !
NOW BUSH IS INSERTED IN ANY POSITION !
THEN ULTIMATE ADJUSTMENT:
Easily accessible “Precise Single Wrench” - Accurately direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD !
Revolution in design - initially “how can this possibly work”. But once you get your head around it. Align shops realise the simplicity (often said - simplest design is the best design).
Same with the C63S K-MAC “REAR” Camber (& Extra Toe) kits.
COUPE MODEL #502326-1K Game changer when compared to the OEM basic, inaccurate and minimal adjustment shims on this model !
K-MAC kit “replacing” and updating to A PRECISELY ACCURATE CAM WASHER ADJUSTMENT SYSTEM WITH 4 TIMES THE ADJUSTMENT RANGE (Plus uprating the soft rubber OEM bushes at the same time).
Same with Sedan and Wagons #502226K Camber (& Extra Toe) kit.
Similar design as Coupe and both rear kits exact same features as front.
SUMMARY - BILLET ARMS OR WHATEVER - “CANNOT SIMPLIFY any more” (Single Wrench / Precise adjustment under load) !!
I don't know what that means, but they are no longer installing / working with KMAC bushings because of my car. Maybe they just don't understand how they work, but I would be surprised as they do all of the track alignments for Porsche GT cars, McLaren's etc.
