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On rear i found no Brembo video on YT whichs shows the OEM AMG rear disc . The OEM disc has slots and holes. Its also a performing disc. Disc in video looks similar but without drill holes.
The oem brake pads i dont know for sure Textar or Brembo ? Has supplier changed ? I dont know exactly.
Important check out that you not buy the pads from carbon ceramic discs (front) if you have steel discs !
To go for sure tribble check by VIN and part # or and ask manufacturer pads or MB parts guy - buy MB OEM.
I have no problem with these OEM disc’s & pads thats realy good stuff. All ( pads/discs) are perfectly coordinated. No reason to use others.
On ( unlimited highway ) V-max 290 kmh / 180 mi and if you have then brake down with full force because sight 120 km/h (75 mi) overlook no problem no brake judder etc.. The wheels gone fast dirty that tells me it works well ( the slots in discs - for cleaning surface pads).
I never used my car on race track but i never heard some bad word about the oem setup from guys which has done race track.
I know on race track for brakes its a strong situation/stress. i dont speak from driving a GT series race with C63s i mean privat driving on race track.
What do you think ? and why are not the brembo tech disc videos displayed ?
Are you satisfied too with your this AMG Brakes ?
One other question i have - how is this made on front discs (dual cast) that steel and aluminium is fixed ?
( i think similar like the SHW but i dont know for sure)
Not exactly related but I recently got new front rotors and pads from FCP Euro for $1500 ish. Installed at independent shop for $150.
Meanwhile MB dealership quoted $5700 (not including tax).
Save $$ and basically feels and looks the same as MB rotors. The pads I used are genuine MB pads.
Yep, I've got the full-floating Brembo's on mine. I'm on the second set of those. Love them. Much more consistent than the standard rotors, because they center themselves between the pads, so always optimal pad contact. On the rear I just have Zimmermann OE equivalent rotors. The rear calipers are floating calipers, so going full-floating rotors in the rear is pointless. The caliper already slides and centers over the rotor to compensate for thermal expansion.
FCP Euro sells these for a fraction of the cost of the factory rotors and they have lifetime replacement warranty. Send back the worn rotors+pads and get full credit for them. So far I only paid for the first set. The second set was free after I sent back the worn first set. The policy now only gives you a store credit. I still got a cash refund as I had bought the first set under their original policy. Dealership wanted something like $4000 just for replacing the front rotors and pads. Got the same job done with these rotors installed at an Indy for under $2000 and even cheaper the second time as I only had to pay for the labor. Crazy what the dealerships want for breaks. Front and rear was quoted to me at around $6000. If I was crazy to pay that, I'd have optioned the CCBs when I bought the car.
Last edited by superswiss; Apr 25, 2026 at 07:49 PM.
How much miles on your car and how long did your brakes stay ?
Do you drive street only or race track too ?
41k miles. I get about 16k out of a set. I don't track the car, but I used to frequently go canyon carving. Haven't gone as much lately, though. Initially I also spent 2 months in Europe with it and the first 7000 miles were a lot of high speed driving/braking on the German Autobahn. I do drive spirited when I drive and am fairly hard on the brakes.
Miles. Rears go first and fronts follow shortly. Yes, these cars eat tires and brakes for breakfast. The rear rotors typically last for two sets of pads, but I change the front rotors each time.
That shows us that the break works well.
Rear i think its cause of wheel spin and ASR.
Normaly front first.
Do you know how is brake power adjusted 60/40 ?
This cars don't have a fixed front/rear brake bias. They have electronic brakeforce distribution, so the brake force is continuously regulated and sent to the wheel(s) that can use it most effectively. This system also prefers the rear brakes for moderate braking. It engages the rears first as that reduces/eliminates the typically nose dive under braking. Instead it makes the rear squat before the front nose dives and keeps the chassis more flat during braking. Also makes things more comfortable for passengers as you don't get your head thrown forward and then back. Especially when using DISTRONIC, a lot of the slowing down is done via the rear brakes. Wheel slip at least in the FL is mainly controlled via the locking differential and the fine engine torque management courtesy of the 9-stage traction control instead of selective brake application, but the torque vectoring when cornering also uses the rear brakes when necessary to help rotate that car, so there are a few things that make use of the rear brakes.
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