AtlanteanTitan

Hi, recently when I step on the gas all the way although the car takes off initially after a second or two check engine light goes on and the gas pedal stops responding quickly, it is like driving a 2 cylinder car. After I shut off the ignition and restart, it runs fine but the check engine light stays on and if I behave while driving after a while it will go off. Slight aggression turns the light back on and the engine starts missing until I shut off and restart again. Disconnecting the battery and waiting a couple of minutes turns off the check engine light immediately and the engine runs smooth but I'm tired of driving a 12 cylinder like a trailer truck. Does anyone have a similar problem or knows what the problem is?. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the help.

BlownV8

It helps to have the year of your CL when giving advise. The problem may be the coil packs. Damn expensive!!!!!

saintz

Go to an auto parts store (Pep Boys, Autozone, etc.) and they should pull the CEL code for you for free. That will help a lot to determine the issue.

ohlord

your own code reader 94169 at harborfreight tools 70 bucks
scan your codes
post them per above
Sounds like it is going into limp mode or you have a plugged cat converter.
Don't disconnect the battery that does nothing but turn off the light the pending code stays stored in the ecu and just pops on again when the same conditions occur.Most emissions related obd2 codes lead to little or no driving issue but should be taken care of asap.
In your case the car is really affected and not jumping on the issue can lead to so very costly issues.
Scan it, post codes

Ifari

Sounds like you need a new Throttle Pedal/Sensor

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...n-problem.html

MBtech1098

You need to post some fault codes...if it is a misfire, depending on which cylinder(s) is misfiring, and the order the faults are displayed can tell alot as far as diagnosis of m137 misfire causes. Then again, a generic scanner may not display the faults correctly...and definately wont provide you with the fault code subdivision.

But at least hook one up and see what it says.

IngenereAMG

I am sure that there will be some misfire codes. Once we see those, we'll know which direction to go. I am betting on coil packs.

Maybe this 600 just wants us to tune it!
Even so, I go with coil packs!

AtlanteanTitan

Thanks for all the replies, it's been a while since I gave up on resolving the issue, here are the codes taken a few days ago:

01/07 PO301
02/07 PO305
03/07 PO303
04/07 PO306
05/07 PO302
06/07 PO304
07/07 PO300

what I've found is that it is misfires on the cylinders but how can I pinpoint the cause of the problem, I know there are issues with coil packs on this year's models although it doesn't neccessarily mean it is the coil packs. Perhaps a faulty ignition module? I would like to prevent unncessary costs. About 2 weeks ago I heard what sounded like high voltage leak from the left side of the engine but did not see any sparks even in the dark and now the engine light does not go off and the engine misses no matter what, a complete tune up was done 12K miles ago. What other problems can possibly cause this. Again everyone thank you for all the advise.

biker349

i had this problem and they replace the throttle body and accelerator. accelerator is about $200, throttle body about $1300 and i believe it has to be re-programmed. good luck. if your lucky it will be the accelerator. there is a code for the accelerator. i believe it's P0120. get a good opinion. it could be throttle body, or coils. both expensive. have a knowledgeable person look at it.

Ifari

If you have check engine light and codes P0300 or P0301-P0312 for left and or right cylinder bank.....Remove the ignition module on the affected cylinder bank and inspect for discharge. Discharge has occurred if...

a) ... Scorch marks are visible on the large diameter end of at least one red rubber seal and/or
b) ... Illuminating the ignition coils shows signs of chipping, wear signs of scorching on the lower face of the black plastic tower.

If no discharge, do not replace the module. If there is discharge, remove and replace the ignition module. The red rubber seal must always be replaced when removing the ignition module.

AtlanteanTitan

O.K.!!, thanks for all the replies. The problem is gone after replacing both coil packs and the ignition module, nothing that $4.5K could not fix and the monster is back. Now a new problem!!! the driver door becomes paralyzed, nothing works, even the automatic door closer. All the buttons are dead, no power at all, but intermediately after a while the power comes back on and usually stays on, until the car is turned off. I checked the plugs under the seat and there is constant 12 volts whether the ignition is on or not, so I'm thinking maybe the a connector or a relay is not working properly?

AtlanteanTitan

After quite a while, ABC problem again. Although everything works, even the switch on the dashboard, elevating the car. After driving for a little while, the red ABC message comes on. The car feels as if it is driving fine. If I disconnect the battery and connect again, message goes away and it drives fine for a while but then the same thing happens. When this started, there was a little bit of ABC oil needed, I filled the reservoir but it did not solve the problem, by the way there are no leaks either. Any ideas?? and thanks for everyone's input.

biker349

bet you don't have enough pressure. have it check on star.

radride

I betcha you are facing a pump replacement in the very near future.

R.K.