There was a gentleman on another forum who did the strut conversion who stated that he's had his ABC pump dry for 3 years now, no problem. Interesting.

 

Hi all,

I just posted a thread on the AMG subform (posted in the wrong forum) - https://mbworld.org/forums/cl55-amg-...ml#post6542666

Having problems with the ABC after 3 years of owning a 2001 CL500.

From reading through this thread and others it appears that the Strutmaster coil over conversion is a legitimate option for me, provided I can find someone to help me install it.


Should I go that route what else do I need to know? As I understand there might be some parts of a S class I would need but not immediately? How does that work regarding the ABC pumps. After you do the coil over conversion what do you even need them for?


Sorry if its confusing, but any help is appreciated.

 

I read your original post and being told to junk a car you most likely love is never an option. They're right that when the pump goes bad it'll basically shred itself sending tiny metal fragments through the entire system. Once these fragments circulate through the system( epic failure on Mercedes' part: the system fluid is only filtered on the return to the reservoir), all of your abc components could potentially need to be replaced. About 10-14 grand easy with labor.

I did my conversion in May and I've been extremely pleased. I'm still running off the same pump, which had gone bad on the abc side but is still functioning properly on the ps side. I want to eventually gut the entire system, but I haven't found someone knowledgeable enough or willing to do it yet. I've had no issues with handling or stability. I put Conti Extreme Contact DWS on it and it's been smooth sailing.
The only issues I have noticed since the conversion, but I'm not sure if they are a direct result: occasionally I get this random clicking kind of noise from the driver front, normally it'll coincide with coasting after having to cut my wheel all the way to the left. Other than that, I have to slow down when I reach a section of road that may cause the car to dip and pop back up. If I don't, I do hear a scraping sound from that same driver front. Could be the fact that I'm on 19", could be something the guy screwed up on install or could be unrelated, but whatever it is, that driver front is the only area. I'll have it looked at when I have time. Oh yea, onice or twice the module didn't pick up on start up and I got abc display malfunction, but you turn it off and back on and the message is gone, sport button lights are on again.

I highly recommend the conversion. Take it one step at a time. Work on modifying parts as they may be needed in the future, first just get the suspension in order.

 

Is it safe to assume that if they looked at the fluid and it looks clean then the pump hasnt gone completely bad yet? Even with the noisy pump? I dont want to even consider repair if the whole system is bad.

I have 19s on my car as well so that doesnt bode well in terms of the scraping but i guess it doesnt sound too serious.

 

If your fluid is clean you're fine
As I said in your other thread it sounds like you just need a valve block rebuild

Jnash in this forum can do it for you


They can't put a filter on the pressure side of the system because the pressure is so high the filter would collapse , that's why the filter is only on the return side

 

I def can hear a knocking or a ticking coming from the power steering pump, I guess I will have to replace it.

If I did replace the PS pump, what is the risk of running the bad valve block for a while during the time I am figuring out how to park my car for a while and send it in for repair?

 

You can run a bad valve block forever if you want , the car will just keep sinking when you park it . It's much better to have the valve block rebuild done at the same time as the new abc pump

 

But its a function of leaking fluid so I guess i would need to constantly check the fluid levels which is fine.

One question that I never really asked. When the car has dipped and I get in and re-raise it using the ABC button, it never quite reaches the same height on the bad side as on the good side. Any reason that could be or its still jsut valve block related?

 

Yeah that sounds like the valve block

Whether you need to add fluid Depend if it's an external leak or internal leak .
You didn't mention Seeing any fluid leakage on the ground ?

Most often the valves in the valve block stick open because of a small piece of dirt and that's why the fluid drains back and one corner sinks . External Leaks can also occur but it's less common

 

To be clear, a leaking valve is usually an internal leak where the fluid escapes past a contaminated or deteriorated rubber O-ring. It passes from the high pressure side to the low pressure side, and gets recirculated into the reservoir. This is an internal leak; its not uncommon, and its not harmful.

External leaks from the pump, struts or valves are very unusual. If you do get an external leak, its usually from a flexible hose. These ARE harmful!

I wouldn't worry about exact ride heights. I spent ages trying to get my car level, and its like trying to chase your tail. ABC behaves unusually when its parked. Because the road is never quite flat, the level of the car is kind of arbitrary. What I think it normally does is park the car with the front end level, so each front wheel sits at the same ride height. Over the hours and days, each corner will settle down at a slightly different rate. As long as the car levels itself when you drive off, everything is working.

Yes, its important that the ABC fluid level is right. Its a long story though. Tusables or I will explain given a little more free time. Having said that, under normal circumstances you don't need to lose sleep over fluid level. Get it right, then keep an occassonal check on it.

The most important thing to remember is never run the engine with no oil in the ABC reservoir.

Nick

 

Where is the dash kit from? Or did you mod the original?

 

I just did this conversion also! With the Strutmasters kit.
Install went fine. ABC light still on dash, even with module (par for the course, says so in installation manual.)
Ride height is good, I am told. Ride isn't too bumpy, or anything like that - you don't "feel" the road too much.

However - my car was an ABC car, not the standard hydraulic. Apparently the hydraulic cars had/have a sway bar separate, in the suspension. On the ABC cars, the sway bar is built into the ABC system. I was unaware of this/never thought about it. Therefore, my car, with this Strutmasters kit & ABC delete, now has NO sway bar! According to the installer, I won't be taking any more high speed corners/turns, as the suspension feels "floaty." Not that I did anyway (it's an S-class after all), but I wonder exactly JUST how "floaty" the front end feels?!
Does anyone know/have any first hand experience with it??? Certainly something to consider with this kit.

I'm out of town for a few more weeks, left this car with a mechanic for the install. So I have not & cannot drive the car myself yet!

 

Your car is like all other W215 CL Mercedes.

We all have ABC which is an hydraulic system. The reason none of us (not just you) have sway bars is because we don't need them since the ABC (which we all have) is an active system and thus the suspension reacts in lightening quick time to cornering and other forces.

Just noticed you say you have an S Class...all the above applies to any of the ABC hydraulic S Classes also.

 

hi .people,i have a quiestion what would happen if i just put bigger coils in my ABChidraulic struts ,whats your appinion would the car stay up enough so it wouldnt be crititcal to drive,? OK mybe i couldnt use the regulator for the different highs,but i could get over it if the ABC systen wouldnt show any errors,hope i made my thouts clear with my bad english.
Just to explain it im thinking not to buy Arrnot strutts just put in the existing strutts higher,higher coils so the car would stay up and it would have the same effect like the ones from Arnott strutts without hydraulic,would this work,with this modification,asking because i have 4 abc strutts left over used ones,and have plans avetually buying the arnott strutts,thanks.

 

You understand that if you get a accident your passenger will end up blind with a tablet crashed in his face or might die ?

 

Wouldn't the airbag deploy above the screen?

 

[QUOTE=jpohl402;7002220]I just did this conversion also! With the Strutmasters kit.
Install went fine. ABC light still on dash, even with module (par for the course, says so in installation manual.)

Not true, the control lights on the abc switches, above your command stay engaged. Your dash warning should be gone if it was done correctly.

 

I dont believe this is possible as abc hydraulic struts aren't coils. If you do coils, you have to delete abc with conversion kit. Best way to go. I've converted two of them and never regretted it.

 

don't think so

 

there are indeed metal coils under the plastic dust cover on a abc strut

 

tg

The screen is set into the glovebox lid...the airbag deploys above this.

 

I am about to erase the ABC system..! What difference in ride do you experienced with the regular coil over strut system???

 

why can’t you use coilovers that are for airmatic on cars with abc. They look the same. Plus if I can save $600 why not

 

There is someone who did such a conversion but it took some custom work.

 

I have a 2001 s55 amg. The abc system is shot. Want to switch to coilovers. But most of the conversions. Say for airmatic only. Not abc I’m just wondering why. The coils are the same