bluto

Can anybody tell me if lowering the CL will put more pressure on the ABC system, causing hoses etc to be more likely to fail in the long run?

Also once lowered do the tires end up with a bad camber? causing rear tyres to wear out on the inside?

Any info on the right way to lower my beast appreciated greatly. :-)

awiner

Any method you use to lower a vehicle does result in suspension geometry changes. This is why a good computerized four wheel suspension alignment is recommended after lowering.

As to what is the best method to lower.... Well that has been debated to death here over the past decade.

I personally use a ELM (Electronic Lowering Module). I personally feel this is the best way, albeit expensive, to lower an ABC vehicle.

There are a few reasons why and I have detailed many of those reason here:

https://mbworld.org/forums/cl55-amg-...5-lowered.html

bluto

Thanks mate.

So people who have lowered there cars with modules, have not had more problems than usual with the ABC systems?

It dosnt put more pressure on the system? Cause alerts to go off etc?

radride

The system pressure stays the same. The only thing different is where the shocks sit when the car is lowered. In my opinion, lowering the car should not have a major affect on the suspension. You will see if you park your car longer than 2 weeks, it will start to lower to the point where the wheels tuck inside the fenders. And that's normal.

I also agree the best way to lower the car is by module. That's the way mine is lowered. Even then, my alignment was within Mercedes Spec and I'm lowered 2". Finally, you won't get any messages or anything to that effect on your dash lowering it via module. I believe the same holds true using lowering links.

R.K.

boost420

^Exactly, I lowered mine on links as I don't like the idea of splicing into the harness, but it truly comes down to a personal preference. The ABC system, whether lowered or not, is the weak link. I just had to replace mine, and now will follow the recommendation on here for maintence not the new MB procedure.

OCKlasse

There is no more splicing the system. It is just swapping pins now.

awiner

OCKlasse is correct. When I installed my ELM in 2004, I just swapped pins and used harness adapters that came with the unit. No need to cut/splice as I wouldn't do that either.

One thing to keep in mind when deciding between an ELM and links or the "washer" method is that at speed (~55mph), ABC will lower another 1/4". Using an ELM stops this auto lowering procedure at speeds.

If you use another method other than the ELM keep in mind that you want to have enough clearance for this auto lowering at speed.

bluto

I will definitly go with the lowering module.

Will this lead to a big camber that causes the tires to wear out the inside?

Do I need a "camber kit" or does the module adjust for this also??

I hate having to replace rear tyres every 6 months.

awiner

Negative camber is normal for how the CL (W215) suspension geometry is. Front tires have been my biggest expense with this car (which may not be a bad thing )

I've looked into dialing out negative camber but in turn the handling of this 4000lb beast would be sacrificed both in cornering and slow speed turns.

Were not alone. Many modem high performance vesicles such as BMW, etc. have this same issue for the same reasons.

BlownV8

What is the new MB procedure?

OCKlasse

+1 You gotta pay to play, unfortunately.

I am making some custom rear lower control arms with lower mounting points which should not only make the ride better at lower heights, but will also be shortened to compensate for the additional camber of being lowered.

I am currently at -3 degrees in the rear right now

awiner

I think what was being referred to is Mercedes way of handling a ABC flush these days. Mercedes no long removes the fluid but rather flushes it using multiple filters during the Rodeo process.

The original and preferred way is to remove the fluid, refill, filter and flush and then remove, refill and install a new filter again.