I have spent a number of weeks reading all I could about the tune on these cars. I have had tuned many of my cars in the past starting with a Supra, passing through Ford and the 03/04 Cobra and even a couple GenII Vipers (96 & 98) - so while familiar with the tune process I am even more familiar with disappointment at times.

Due to many factors and I wont bash anyone here, I decided that Eucrocharged was best for me. Out of the gate they impressed me, from the time I placed my order I had tracking on the kit (cable/software and instructions) within minutes. This will arrive tomorrow and I will post how the next step went.

I went with ECU only for now as I dont wish to change anything about how my TCU works. Their way of getting the flash done is cool, an OBD cable for my computer and software/instructions to download my current flash. I then email it to them and they apply the changes and lock the VIN and send it back. Then I flash it back in and am counting on miles of smiles!

I am posting this since I was unable to find this info when I was searching the board. Hope it helps others that are / were doing the same, researching and learning, trying to know what to put in their cars computer

 

Keep us posted...
What I would like to know is how easy was the process, how soon your coil packs will die/or not, and the most important the performance!

 

Your coils are likely to die within a month , adding z
$3000+ to the tune cost

. Renn tech tune does not fry the coils

 

Um, never heard that the renntech was better for the coils, why is this?

 

I have learned over the years that there is never something for nothing when looking for increased performance.

Modifying many cars has taught me that there is always a weak link when adding power. In this case, it is certainly the original coil packs. Over and over we read it happens, so it must be more than a coincidence. This to me is totally in line with my life experience. On the Viper it was half shafts, Supra was clutches, Cobra was trans.

You add power you will break things that were fine at the stock power level. Knowing this I am prepared for a coil issue, I also understand that the upgraded part # from Mercedes is a superior part, so when mine go puff, I will use those. I have not heard of the new part # failing under a tune. Just the old (in my case) ELEVEN year old coil packs. No worries.

I am more interested to know if your comment about Renntech tunes is based on any facts that can be proven, or just emotion and a personal experience or bias.

In the Viper community if an upgrade didn't break half shafts like the others did, that upgrade obviously didn't make as much power as the others do.

 

I had a Renntech tune and my coil packs had to be replaced after the tune. I think it is more of a the coil packs had to be replaced anyway so it just made it go a little quicker. Then again, it may have had no impact at all and they were going to fail when they failed.

I chose Renntech over 7 years ago for my old CL because they were the only one I trusted with an engine that expensive. I knew they would stand behind their tune and give great support. Not to mention, their tunes seem to produce the most HP. I went from around 400 RWHP to over 525 RWHP with the Renntech tune.

 

ok so today i get home and my package is here!

simple usb -> OBD ii cable and a set of instructions. the short story is hook up the cable to a wintel notebook and do a 2 minute task. doesnt seem like it downloaded my entire ecu, but it did create a file. per instructions, i emailed the new file to eurocharged and now await my flash

more to come when i get my file to flash the ecu with!!!!

 

ding! I get an email notification about 30 minutes ago - my file has arrived!

downloaded it onto the notebook, ran to the garage and followed the instructions. well, most, it said to get a battery charger hooked up during the flash to be safe. nah, my battery is good. Started the flash process - now i see why on the battery, radiator fan goes to high, sounds like a jet going and i was worried it was draining the battery fast. nervous nelly for the 6 or 7 minutes it took to reach 100% on the software - phew! made it without battery dying.

turned off the key, pulled the obd, waiting a moment then started the car. sounds normal. let it warm up for a couple minutes and told the wife going down the street to test.

leaving the neighborhood the car has the exact same manners as before. wonder if I will feel a difference? got on the 2 mile long empty road we have out here and rolled into it gently. felt nice, like the car was lighter - all good, manners the same.

at the end of the road I turned around - checked for traffic and turned off the ESP. from like a 10mph roll i stood on it, tires lit instantly and trans went to 2nd at red line, grabbed a hair of traction then it lit again, in 2nd for about half the rpm range (it had never done this before) - then finally, top of 2nd, tires bit full traction and HOLY CRAP i screamed. As it went into third I could not remove the smile from my face, the car was pulling harder than EVER before, I would have guessed I put a 125 shot of N2O on the thing. Just insane pull - laid off it at 120 and could not believe what I just felt. All through a USB port, I just LOVE technology. Thank you to Eurocharged and Philip and Jerry. You guys have taken my cool fast daily driver and made it feel like I could have never imagined. Kudos to ya! A+A+

 

lol...we have seen plenty of fried coils from every tuner..


Right on the money!

Glad we could help! We spent an ungodly amount of money and time building the euroflash software, but it's times like this it's all worth it!

 

I have started playing with octane and would like to share what i have found. My car seems to respond to octane more than any other car I have owned in the past. (i have never 'felt' a difference with octane before)

When it gets warm and I have been sitting on the freeway (heat soaking and so forth) for a while, the power is not as violently wonderful as when I am leaving the house in the morning. So many things control this I imagine, but a big one has got to be knock sensors because of what I found with fuel rating.

Being in California, seems that almost everywhere is 91 octane max. I was familiar with a downs fleet fueling station near my office that I had bought race gas from in the past for a track car. Anyhow - figured I would give it a go and put some gas in. I had what was showing as 5/8 tank of 91 still in the car when I pulled into downs. Not sure what to expect I just bought 6 gallons of the VP 101 octane fuel they have on pump. ($8.10 per gallon)

Back to the normal drive home, sitting in traffic etc and heat soaking. My usual path home daily has given me a good basis and experience on how my car is during this drive. Ever since the tune it has been such a different car, and I love it. So much more power and pep than when stock. It of course though still backs itself down when hot/soaked whatever..... With the fuel in the car there was no doubt that it was helping. Again I imagine lessening the input from the knock sensors, and in turn giving me a better spot on the ecu 'map' in the ecu. Was totally noticeable and the extra $4 gallon was worth the smiles for the rest of that tank in places i normally had less performance.

I am currently trying to nail just what octane level I need to be at in my situation to keep the increased power level. My first tank I calculated like this. (Guessing 11 gallons left at 5/8 tank plus 6 gallons more of the 101)

11 Gallons @ 91 octane = 1001

6 Gallons @ 101 octane = 606

1607 / 17 gallons = 94.5 octane

So I am have to going to wait until I dont have to 'guess' how much fuel I have left - but am curious how low i can go on the octane before losing some power when heat is mixed in.

 

Sounds like you may have an intercooler pump on the way out. The octane is only as good as the tune. If your car is tuned for 91, you may make less power since there is less energy in higher octane fuel. If your car is tuned for 93+, it should make more power because the timing is set higher to help utilize the detonation resistance of the higher octane fuel.

 

Thanks blownv8 for your input. funny enough i bought the bosch 010 pump a while ago, was planning on getting around to it. now will replace it this weekend to see if you nailed it! any idea how to make the pump run so i can bleed out any air i get in there during the swap?

 

ok just finished changing the IC pump. for the life of me I cant find any thread that says how to actually bleed the system. lots of references to the fact that it needs to be done, but nothing step by step.

anyone help here?

 

Ok, this is the way I did it...
1) Remove the relay for the IC pump. This is located in the passenger side of the engine compartment in the small fuse/relay box that is mounted right next to the large fuse box. It is relay "W" which is located in the middle of the box.
2) Remove the radiator cap that sits between the intercoolers and fill with clean water. Get some 3/8ths flexible tubing. You will need 2 pieces about a foot or so in length each. Remove the Schrader valves from the bleeders on both intercoolers. Slide the tubing over each one and route them into the cooling circuit filler neck.
3) I fashioned a fused jumper to jump the relay contacts #30 to #87 (the sockets in the relay receptacle) The contacts are labeled on the relay itself. #30 is battery power and #87 is the power circuit to the IC pump. The IC pump should come on (I don't believe you need to turn the key on or anything). You will hear the pump running and you will also start to hear water begin to circulate.
4) Water will begin to flow from the bleeder valves and through the flexible tubes back into the filler neck. You will probably hear gurgling in the system...this is air that is in the cooling circuit. Monitor the water level in the filler neck as it will begin to go down as the water is circulated and air escapes through the filler neck in the way of bubbles. As the water goes down, continue to fill it up with fresh water. Once all the gurgling is gone and no more bubbles appear in the filler neck, the system should be bled. It does take a while so be patient.
Gary

 

Gary, first off a big thank you. that is the best description of how to bleed the intercooler system on the M275 that I have ever come across. I did exactly as stated and works like a champ - and how right you are, it did take a while but there is no mistake when you are done, the system goes silent and the flow without interruption is apparent. thanks again, IC pump install and bleed, check!

done.

After buttoning it all up, i of course ran the car in the garage at idle to be sure the schraders and all were re-installed properly. While it was idling with the engine cover off and hood still open I heard an electrical sounding arc. This sound was rhythmic and for sure not injectors ( I am familiar with that sound) - literally sounds like arcing electricity. I moved to the other side to see if same and the passenger side does not make this sound, just the drivers side. I will test the car on the way to and from work to see if the IC pump is the source of my power loss, but anybody know what the arc sound is? I can only imagine at worst case it is the coil pack on that side, but again, looking for info - thoughts from those with experience? thanks!

 

Could be coil packs. If you notice the car starts shuddering during a WOT run and trips the check engine light, it is probably your coil packs. It will run horribly until you restart the car. If it is bad enough, it will still run poorly even after you restart.

 

Thanks Blown - havent had any of those symptoms, no CEL and no stumbling of any type. Being I have only had this since the end of last year, many of the noises and sounds are new to me and could very well be normal. I am wary of the coil packs going out based on all I read here, but that could be the same paranoia I had about the ABC from all the reading. Either way I am prepared if they go out - just curious of the symptoms, so your post helps, thanks! Incredibly impressed with this car as a whole package and I swear it must be the best kept used car secret on the planet..... shhhhh

 

If you don't have new coil packs and are running a tune, it's just a matter of time before they fail. Maybe a month or two but could be as short as a day.

 

I will look for those symptoms you stated, thanks.

I read somewhere there is an updated part # I want to be sure to get?

 

Buy them from oreilly they have a lifetime warranty... You'll need it with a tune !

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap
They are the updated OEM part

 

Think those are as good as OEM from the factory? Or is this a case where they are factory units sold into the aftermarket?

Amazing that the left and right are different prices!


Import Direct Ignition - Ignition Coil
Import Direct Ignition - Ignition Coil
$1,315.99 Each
limited lifetime warranty
Left Bank
Quantity Per Vehicle: 1
no Image
Online: Available
Call Store: Usually Avail. 24 Hrs
Find store with item


no Image
Import Direct Ignition - Ignition Coil
Import Direct Ignition - Ignition Coil
$849.99 Each
limited lifetime warranty
Right Bank
Quantity Per Vehicle: 1
no Image
Online: Available
Call Store: Usually Avail. 24 Hrs
Find store with item


no Image

 

They are the OEM part, no one else makes them . Just rebranded and with a better warranty

 

Just a quick update for those subscribed. Been on the tune for a little longer than two months now and the only problem I have is rear tire wear. Still love it, problem free - was expecting coils to fail but might just be nay'sayers or those with bad luck.... so far no coil issues whatsoever. If they do eventually go I have the new part # lined up and ready to go. I drive the car hard - flog full throttle at least 4 or 5 times during each days commute. Putting about 50-60 miles a day on it. Freeway and city stop and go mixed. Cant say enough, awesome upgrade.

The only other thing I have done is lowering links and I absolutely love the new ride height. Perfect for me. Now the high setting is what the low used to be, and lowest is low, slight rub on driveway but thats it. I run it on mid height setting with sport setting on and it just feels and looks great. Thanks to the forum for all the info and opinions on how to tune this beast - with the research i did here online i really feel like I got the best bang for the tire shredding monster!

 

Here is a link to the lowering links. The first one took about 25 minutes to learn and understand. The next 3 took a total of five minutes. $100 for a major mod, very cool. Would buy again.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lowering-Links-for-2000-2006-Mercedes-Benz-W215-CL-Class-CL500-CL600-CL55-AMG-/271480785052?vxp=mtr&ViewItem=&item=271480785052&nma=true&si=5FRWTOyC12Wc6kj7DP4Yp0jUGWg%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

How's the car been running since last year? Any issues?