DIY abc pipe fix.
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Joined: Dec 2016
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Cl600 biturbo 2005 w215
DIY abc pipe fix.
I've read a lot about leaking suspension and repairing them. I've got a leak from one of those problematic pipes. The one that runs under front crossmember left to right. Seeping at the joint between the joints of rubber and metal pipe.
I'm going to repair pipe not remove it. I'm hoping to cut the metal pipe near the rubber pipe and get new length made with 10mm compression fittings to clamp back on metal pipe.
I will lose some oil when I cut pipe . Can I repair pipe and just top up and start car ? Will I have to prime pump ? Do I have to bleed air out or is it self bleeding. I know when all is fixed I have to raise and lower car lots.
I'm just a but worried I could ruin the abc pump. Any advice please
I'm going to repair pipe not remove it. I'm hoping to cut the metal pipe near the rubber pipe and get new length made with 10mm compression fittings to clamp back on metal pipe.
I will lose some oil when I cut pipe . Can I repair pipe and just top up and start car ? Will I have to prime pump ? Do I have to bleed air out or is it self bleeding. I know when all is fixed I have to raise and lower car lots.
I'm just a but worried I could ruin the abc pump. Any advice please
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
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Cl600 biturbo 2005 w215
Ok point taken. I could order a new pipe . I admit it would be a better job . If I replace the complete pipe will it empty the pump of fluid? And will the pump then need bleeding?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2015
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From: Miami, FL
2003 CL 600
Are you sure it's that one? The two pipes across the front of the subframe are not going to the right front strut, and they are the ones that usually leak. I just did this job on my car.
You will lose most of the fluid in the line, and while it's open the pump will leak out most of it's fluid as well.
To get mine to prime, I had to do as MB says and fill the bottle, then apply about 15psi of air pressure (stuck a blow-gun in a rag and into the dipstick port on the bottle) to force fluid into the pump at first. Once that was done it primed right up, I rodeo'd the car for a couple minutes since I had STAR to get all the air out, but some height cycles and then a good aggressive drive will get most of the air out. If you're only doing that line, the air won't spread too far. It also has a bleeder on it you could use to evacuate most of the air from that branch. If you're doing the main feeder line that usually leaks, which I had to do, it will pump air into the valve blocks and such but still bleeds out pretty easy.
You will lose most of the fluid in the line, and while it's open the pump will leak out most of it's fluid as well.
To get mine to prime, I had to do as MB says and fill the bottle, then apply about 15psi of air pressure (stuck a blow-gun in a rag and into the dipstick port on the bottle) to force fluid into the pump at first. Once that was done it primed right up, I rodeo'd the car for a couple minutes since I had STAR to get all the air out, but some height cycles and then a good aggressive drive will get most of the air out. If you're only doing that line, the air won't spread too far. It also has a bleeder on it you could use to evacuate most of the air from that branch. If you're doing the main feeder line that usually leaks, which I had to do, it will pump air into the valve blocks and such but still bleeds out pretty easy.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
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Cl600 biturbo 2005 w215
It's looks like the pipe in the diagram . It's the pipe that in the middle has 4" small steel pipe with a fixing bracket on it. I'm going up get up tomorrow and have a really good look and see where it runs . Then order it. I will get some photos as well and post them up .
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2016
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Cl600 biturbo 2005 w215
I've not got under the car yet to confirm which pipe is leaking as it's been too cold to lay outside under it. I haven't ordered any pipes yet as I want to be sure I order the correct one. I will take photos and post them when do get under the car
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Welwyn, Herts, UK
2006 S600
Dave, your original plan will work fine, but you do have to take care.
I've done that job ten times, and I've just, today, started the eleventh.
I've only had two ABC leaks after fitting compression repair hoses:
1) I didn't fully tighten the OEM metal joint between the two sections of the infamous pressure feed hose that runs from the pump to the pressure regulator / accumulator.
2) The pressure sensor became slightly lose and started dripping.
I've never had a single compression joint fail on me, but you do have to take care. IN THEORY it's possible to repair in-situ, but I'd advise removing the pipe altogether. If you want to fit a new pipe assembly, that's fine, that's your choice. Just make sure you do fix it, as there's only one thing going to happen. Personally, I would repair every time.
Just remember to get the repair section the right length; don't install it with a twist or stretch; keep the inside of the pipes clean, and don't tighten the compression fitting at all until the installation is complete. New is more expensive, but repairing has more risk.
The pipe you indicated is on the other side of the valve block to the pump, so the pump will not drain. That is always preferable, as priming the pump is difficult but essential. Bleeding the rest of the system is not so critical - just drive it around and top up as necessary.
Nick
I've done that job ten times, and I've just, today, started the eleventh.
I've only had two ABC leaks after fitting compression repair hoses:
1) I didn't fully tighten the OEM metal joint between the two sections of the infamous pressure feed hose that runs from the pump to the pressure regulator / accumulator.
2) The pressure sensor became slightly lose and started dripping.
I've never had a single compression joint fail on me, but you do have to take care. IN THEORY it's possible to repair in-situ, but I'd advise removing the pipe altogether. If you want to fit a new pipe assembly, that's fine, that's your choice. Just make sure you do fix it, as there's only one thing going to happen. Personally, I would repair every time.
Just remember to get the repair section the right length; don't install it with a twist or stretch; keep the inside of the pipes clean, and don't tighten the compression fitting at all until the installation is complete. New is more expensive, but repairing has more risk.
The pipe you indicated is on the other side of the valve block to the pump, so the pump will not drain. That is always preferable, as priming the pump is difficult but essential. Bleeding the rest of the system is not so critical - just drive it around and top up as necessary.
Nick
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Anchorage
05 CL65
If it is that pipe, and you choose to repair or replace it, there are a few things you should know.
Like Nick said, the pump/tank will not drain when replacing that line, but you must have the car supported because that line holds the right front corner up. Once that corner is supported on jack stands, either bleed off the pressure at the valve near the wheel end, or disconnect it from the valve block first to bleed off the pressure in the line BEFORE removing it at the quick disconnect at the strut. There is a safety valve at the quick disconnect end and if you remove that first, it will be impossible to reconnect that end without bleeding the pressure from the strut. Guess how I know? Had to fabricate a tool to relieve that pressure.....
Like Nick said, the pump/tank will not drain when replacing that line, but you must have the car supported because that line holds the right front corner up. Once that corner is supported on jack stands, either bleed off the pressure at the valve near the wheel end, or disconnect it from the valve block first to bleed off the pressure in the line BEFORE removing it at the quick disconnect at the strut. There is a safety valve at the quick disconnect end and if you remove that first, it will be impossible to reconnect that end without bleeding the pressure from the strut. Guess how I know? Had to fabricate a tool to relieve that pressure.....
