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Hey guys, so the coupe stalled/didn't start yesterday. I'm it's defense I've been too busy to bring it in for service since I got it. I've been so busy I've barely had to to drive it let alone bring it in for service. Since I can hear it turning over just not starting I was thinking cam position/crankshaft sensor. But while I had it in I thought I'd do a few more items. I thought I'd show you guys all of the items in my cart and you can cihime in on whether or not it makes sense. Plus I added a picture of the coupe for measure.
if your problem is that you haven't been driving the car though , I suspect a weak battery more than these sensors . Or if you have left it parked outside , it's more likely to be water damage to the SAM and prefuses than the sensors . These cars have a water entry problem if left outside in the rain
if your problem is that you haven't been driving the car though , I suspect a weak battery more than these sensors . Or if you have left it parked outside , it's more likely to be water damage to the SAM and prefuses than the sensors . These cars have a water entry problem if left outside in the rain
thanks, I just added cam sensor to my cart. I have noticed a wet trunk after an automatic car wash. What can I do about the water entry?
The wet trunk is a separate problem related to the hydraulic trunk system
the water entry which causes no starting and damage to SAM enters the car under the passenger side windshield , see the problem and pics here
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w220/265605-2nd-s-flooded-week-s-owners-keep-your-drains-clean.html
I had water in the trunk due to a failed taillight seal, cost a whopping $8 to fix and stopped it leaking. Terrible design, it's a foam seal with a taped together joint that separated with age. I hate german engineering at times.
I had water in the trunk due to a failed taillight seal, cost a whopping $8 to fix and stopped it leaking. Terrible design, it's a foam seal with a taped together joint that separated with age. I hate german engineering at times.
After leaving it parked for a few days, it started up and ran fan last nite. What do you think the problem could be? What kind of scanner can I use to scan the obd? And will it work if the cluster isn't working?? Can you guys recommend a shop in NYC?
Right , he did say it was turning over but not starting , so most likely the crank sensor
Crank sensor will not always trigger a code so getting a scan may not help . Change the crank sensor first then report back
Yeah I meant if it's actually cranking than the issue is not the EIS for sure. I've replaced lots of faulty CKP's that don't set codes, you are absolutely right on that one. People refuse to believe that they can't have no codes, but some times the sensor just doesn't see the engine turning at all, the car doesn't think that's abnormal, so it just does nothing. If the rpm signal is 0, there's no fuel/spark, and it will just crank and crank without fault codes.
Super common failure point on many cars, but very bad on the v6/v8 benzes from that era. I did a few while I was at Firestone, towed in for a stall at a light, would fire right up for me because they had cooled down. Sneak a sensor in there, good as new, usually didn't even have codes stored to clear when I was done.
Should I go ahead with all of the items I had planned to change? I was thinking belts, pulleys, fluids, filters, sensors, plugs and coil packs, valve cover gaskets, and waterpump/thermostat. What do you guys think?
Did you guys but cluster removal tools to remove the cluster? Also what am I looking for in a merc mechanic? I had a dude botch a waterpump in my 740i. It ended up costing me $2000 to fix all of the stuff he broke in the process. I found a "specialist" on Craigslist, but I know.. it's Craigslist.
I also wanted to do the belts, I hear a little squeaking on starts and also while running. But you'd had to be standing in front of the car while it's running to hear it. So I thought the serpentine belt, pulley etc.. I saw on merc medic that sometimes the pulley is causing the squeaks. However I'm not mechanically inclined so I take those videos with a grain of salt..
All is well now! The car even stalled at the garage. The crank sensor went in and all is well now.
Its starts up a lot smoother now. And seems to run a little quieter too. What do you guys think of Mobil filters?
if your problem is that you haven't been driving the car though , I suspect a weak battery more than these sensors . Or if you have left it parked outside , it's more likely to be water damage to the SAM and prefuses than the sensors . These cars have a water entry problem if left outside in the rain
hey tusabes, how you doing? I gotta question if I dont drive my car but once or twice a week for may about 20 - 25 miles each trip. Is this bad for my cl500 2000? Should I at least start it up and drive around the block or something? Also if a w215 cl500 has a resonator? I've been trying to as much research as possible and can't find Nada? Thanks
Driving once a week should be fine . These cars hate sitting long periods , the electronics and active suspension needs regular use .
yes there are Resonator behind the catalytic converter . You can remove with straight pipe for the most sound . Some people really like it just removed , some people use a different brand
Driving once a week should be fine . These cars hate sitting long periods , the electronics and active suspension needs regular use .
yes there are Resonator behind the catalytic converter . You can remove with straight pipe for the most sound . Some people really like it just removed , some people use a different brand
See this what confuses me especially since if I remove the resonators and they end up being secondary cats I'm in trouble. But thank you. If you have any more info I'd highly appreciate it. Thanks tusabes
Just so I'm clear. Removing the resonator is good and removing the secondary cat is bad?? When I removed secondary cats on a 740 the pep was amazing. I was considering doing the same thing to the cl. But when I asked about it on the forum, a dude told me all about the on board computer's requirement for a certain about of back pressure. I sure hope you guys know if this is true or not.
Just so I'm clear. Removing the resonator is good and removing the secondary cat is bad?? When I removed secondary cats on a 740 the pep was amazing. I was considering doing the same thing to the cl. But when I asked about it on the forum, a dude told me all about the on board computer's requirement for a certain about of back pressure. I sure hope you guys know if this is true or not.
grandcouper hey I'm wanting to do my cl resonator delete but can't find the resonators? As far as cats go it depends on the shop you go to due to the emissions there not supposed to touch any cats is what my Indy mechanic told me. Also from the mb dealership stating that the secondary cats don't have an o2 sensor in them. As far as back pressure? I would think it would be less restrictive and provide some back pressure, but I barley know about nothin still trying to figure it out
If your pep increased with cat removal it was probably plugged
you can't remove any cats in states with emissions tests so generally it's not wise to remove them. Even in states with no tests it's not a good idea to remove properly working cats Plus you may get an exhaust smell in the car when removing cats . I would leave them alone unless they are plugged up
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
