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for those who don't know what that red device is, it's a airco refill station
one side give the highest vacuum you can get on the market
maybe I can use the other side to get coolant in, I will see
you don't need this big expensive device of course, it's just because i'm sick and like beta testing lol
removed the vacuum pump from the device and now I get 27-30 inHg vacuum on my system. takes 15-20 minutes
but that is because I interconnect a 100L buffer
I thought if you install an overflow tank for the Intercooler there's no need to bleed since the system will be completely full to the point of overfill into the overflow tank ?
I thought if you install an overflow tank for the Intercooler there's no need to bleed since the system will be completely full to the point of overfill into the overflow tank ?
supposed to yes
but if you removed the radiator and so, I don't think that it will auto bleed that amount of air.
but I can't confirm
maybe you give WIS a try on that amg 65 with overflow tank.. see what they say there, I didn't look yet
I am building my super bleeding tool with 12L looped tank, no more fill empty ****
I thought if you install an overflow tank for the Intercooler there's no need to bleed since the system will be completely full to the point of overfill into the overflow tank ?
Yes, but the IC system is full of air-locks, for example the IC and the HE's....
I think that I done bleeding correctly right now by vacum tool from thread instructions.
Your tool works perfect and after testing all methodes found on forum I can confirm that this is only one way to do bleeding correctly.
Yes- you can do it without tool but your intake cooling system never will be fully efficient.
I made about 35L circle, now without maybach mods, still waiting for ordered parts.
It's important to leave coolant fill system after disconnect tool for night, after few hours it will get about 100ml coolant.
Thanks a lot for informations Pmercury
Now my intake temps:
SL65 AMG
Air temp: 20'C.
In city traffic ( Before: 90-100'C, after: 65-75'C ) Speed about 80 km/h ( Before: 60-70'C , after: 40-50'C ) Speed about 140 km/h ( Before: 65-75'C , after: 34-55'C )
After leave a car after ride for example 30 min stay, temp get 80'C. Car need about 400-500m ride to get 50'C.
It's need only put a little pedas gas to drop down intake temp.
My car hasn't any heat mods, I will install 2x front additional exchanger like in black series and secound water pump.
When I do it and test I will leaving information for us how my temps looks.
I think that I do bleeding correctly right now by vacum tool from your instruction Bro
Thanks a lot for that.
Now my intake temps:
SL65 AMG
Temp zewnętrzna: 20'C.
In city traffic ( Before: 90-100'C, after: 70-80'C )
Speed about 80 km/h ( Before: 60-70'C , after: 40-50'C )
Speed about 140 km/h ( Before: 65-75'C , after: 34-55'C )
After leave a car after ride for example 30 min stay, temp get 80'C. Car need about 400-500m ride to get 50'C.
It's need only put a little pedas gas to drop down intake temp.
My car hasn't any heat mods.
That seems good to me. Exactly the same temps as me.
Mr. Pmercury can you write us how to looks in your modded car ?
In city traffic ( temp ? )
Speed about 80 km/h (temp ? )
Speed about 140 km/h ( temp ? )
Also I have a question. Standard Bosh pump are engaged when we put a little gas pedal. I saw that car drop temp on P-gear when add some RPM. Does the pump increase its flow as the engine rpm increases or does it always work the same ? I am asking becouse still thinking about make connection to relay that pump work all time after key.
Mr. Pmercury can you write us how to looks in your modded car ?
In city traffic ( temp ? )
Speed about 80 km/h (temp ? )
Speed about 140 km/h ( temp ? )
Also I have a question. Standard Bosh pump are engaged when we put a little gas pedal. I saw that car drop temp on P-gear when add some RPM. Does the pump increase its flow as the engine rpm increases or does it always work the same ? I am asking becouse still thinking about make connection to relay that pump work all time after key.
sure can
you might freak out, I will
the bosch pump has alway one speed, just ON / OFF
it is not the IC pump who drops temp
it's the engine mecanic coolant pump who does that, I noticed that too
I need to test if the Xentry Das setting for raising the idle RPM of the engine is enough, not sure
In city traffic ( now: 68-75'C )
Speed about 80 km/h ( now: 50-60'C)
Speed about 140 km/h ( now: 45-60'C )
I saw that the problem come back after one quick run without ESP in city- somethink like burnout with rpm rev.
Maybe coolant system cap does not keep the pressure under a high load. I am still waiting for maybach parts and hope it will solve problem definitely.
My question:
When we do bleeding and after all leave car connected only to fresh coolant like you wrote after night I saw that it drew about 100-200 ml coolant fluid more.
It is correct ? I am asking becouse one day after that I saw small spot of coolant under the car. This fluid has leaked through the vent behind the liquid filler cap.
In city traffic ( now: 68-75'C )
Speed about 80 km/h ( now: 50-60'C)
Speed about 140 km/h ( now: 45-60'C )
I saw that the problem come back after one quick run without ESP in city- somethink like burnout with rpm rev.
Maybe coolant system cap does not keep the pressure under a high load. I am still waiting for maybach parts and hope it will solve problem definitely.
don't forget that temps depend on outside temps
with a 30c outside you will have higher temps then with a 24c
1. Maybach parts installed correctly- it is really easy also in SL65. It only need one cut plastic mount.
2. Bleeding done again.
3. Temps in normal driving about 35-45'C so I think it work correctly.
4. Will see in next days coolant level
5. After 30 km leave a car for 30 min and it get about 91'C Air temp ( is it normal ? )
Start driving again and it come back to normal after 1-2 km. Intercoolers are really cold
I realize this thread is more than a year old, but does anyone know what the adapter that attaches to the top of the reservoir tank is? Is the basic idea to get a leak-tight fit with the reservoir, and then you're essentially siphoning fluid into it as the vacuum pump draws it out the two bleed fittings? And it would have to be a good seal to keep air from getting sucked in there I guess. The cap that fits that tank is just some style of radiator cap? (I haven't bought the upgrade pieces yet, but judging by the old cap it probably is.) I guess a guy could drill a hole in that and insert some sort of bulkhead (through-wall) fitting that would allow you to attach Tygon tubing or similar. That should work, shouldn't it?
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Thanks a lot for informations Pmercury 
