CL-Class (W215) 2000-2006: CL 500, CL 600

CL-Class (W215) Door soft close mechanism repair

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Old Jul 23, 2017 | 02:23 PM
  #26  
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Geraldius, an incredibly detailed thread! Awesome work.

A very good example of why I have a great mechanic and I leave this stuff to him. Nothing like the 60's cars that I used to wrench myself. So now I devote my time to driving them, not fixing them. ��
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 10:36 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Welwynnick
Marvellous work!
Was that a car lift I saw in the background?
Cheers, Nick
Good eye Nick! I didn't notice when taking the photos. Yes, it is a four post lift. Besides getting cars in the air for doing work, it lets me keep an extra car parked on it to free up room in the shop.

Originally Posted by RonCL55
Geraldius, an incredibly detailed thread! Awesome work.

A very good example of why I have a great mechanic and I leave this stuff to him. Nothing like the 60's cars that I used to wrench myself. So now I devote my time to driving them, not fixing them. ��
Indeed. There's a 1965 Mustang and a 1949 Buick in the shop that differ very little from one another in terms of technology. Today's cars have gotten so vastly more complex than 'back in the day'.
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 10:51 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Geraldius
Good eye Nick! I didn't notice when taking the photos. Yes, it is a four post lift. Besides getting cars in the air for doing work, it lets me keep an extra car parked on it to free up room in the shop.

Indeed. There's a 1965 Mustang and a 1949 Buick in the shop that differ very little from one another in terms of technology. Today's cars have gotten so vastly more complex than 'back in the day'.
Yes, vastly more complex but also much better drivers. The 60s were really unique in terms of the cars not all looking the same like they do today. So in that sense I fondly recall the "back in the day" period. But today's cars are so much more of a pleasure to drive. The only way I would own today a 60s car would be as a restomod.
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 11:53 AM
  #29  
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Thank you for great write up, pictures and all your time/effort sharing with the group.
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 11:37 PM
  #30  
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'15 GLK350, '05 CL65 AMG, '04 C320 4matic
Originally Posted by AMG_55_cruiser
Thank you for great write up, pictures and all your time/effort sharing with the group.
Thanks for the kind words. I've gotten a lot of value from things others have posted in the forums here in the past, so this is how I pay it forward.
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 11:47 AM
  #31  
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Geraldius- I've repaired mine last year without removing it completely from the car. All I did was rolled the window all the way up, removed the inner door panel & removed the assy's screws then tilted it about 45 deg so I can get access to the plastic cup at the bottom. Your instruction is spot on for those that want to remove it completely & do the repair on the bench. Kudos for your effort & very nice write up.

Forum Moderator- This should be made as a sticky as it's very well written & contains such a valuable DIY instruction. Thank you.
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 07:59 PM
  #32  
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It's going to be hard to answer your questions because some of what you are asking is really subjective. The W209's suspension is not quite as soft or as "luxurious" as the W211, but it is very nice. It's definitely not sport like a BMW, but it's much more composed than say a Mustang.

As for running Michelin Primacies, I did and they were just fine. Much better than the P-Zeros I had before.
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Old Aug 24, 2017 | 12:02 PM
  #33  
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Awiner- Thanks for turning this post into a sticky. Anyway, Mercedes-Benz produces great & beautiful vehicles, however the plastic they use is so terrible. It out-gassed & became very brittle so very susceptible to crack/break. In regards to the soft close's assy, I concur w/ you it's very time consuming to dis-assemble & re-assemble it so what I did w/ the other soft close's assy in the other door was I potted the surrounding of the plastic cup w/ Scotch-Weld's epoxy as it takes a lot of vacuuming pressure to close the heavy door. This way, it'll re-enforce the plastic cup & those flimpsy plastic tabs. Mine has been working great ever since.

Last edited by superfast; Aug 24, 2017 at 12:05 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 02:45 PM
  #34  
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Awesome work. Very helpful. Thanks.
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Old Oct 3, 2017 | 03:20 PM
  #35  
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Soft Close

Great write up. But this just confirms to me that I don't have the skills and tools to do this repair myself.

I had the same problem earlier this year and had it repaired (actually parts replaced) at the dealer. Total cost was $664.78 for parts and $800.00 for labor.

Not cheap these CLs of ours but great cars when running at 100%!
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Old Oct 12, 2018 | 03:18 AM
  #36  
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thanks for the write i changed both locks myself i have power locking and soft close again
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Old Feb 17, 2019 | 09:27 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Geraldius
This thread will document the process for removal and repair of the door soft close mechanism. The car used in this example is a 2005 CL65 AMG with keyless go. The procedure should be the same for all W215 models with perhaps minor differences. This photos in this example are of the driver's (left side) door. The process will be the same but mirror image for the opposite door.

There may be other reasons for needing to disassemble the inner door. But let's assume that your soft close feature is not working. You hear a hissing air sound when the door is partially closed and the closer feature should have pulled it the rest of the way closed, but it doesn't move. There is a good chance that the closer mechanism has a broken diaphragm housing. It is plastic and held together with weak small tabs that break off.

Disclaimer:
This is a very difficult and time consuming project in the sense that there is a great deal of disassembly of the inner door required to gain access to the soft closer mechanism. This job is not for the faint of heart or those not confident in their skills. You can damage or break expensive parts! If in doubt after reviewing this thread, best take it to a professional who will be responsible for anything that goes wrong.
I just paid $1200 to get this done.
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Old Jun 18, 2019 | 12:04 PM
  #38  
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superb write up. really puts everything in perspective for me whether this repair is worth the effort. I guess if I'm already in there repairing upholstery and the door speakers perhaps it makes sense. otherwise, holy crap thats a lot of work to have a soft close door feature lol. its a fancy feature but really how useful is it? most people slam the car door anyways, whether thats passengers, tire shops, etc
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Old Jul 13, 2019 | 11:34 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by MrTracy
I just paid $1200 to get this done.

Who did you use to fix yours? I might need their services.
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Old Aug 27, 2019 | 10:28 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by superfast
Geraldius- I've repaired mine last year without removing it completely from the car. All I did was rolled the window all the way up, removed the inner door panel & removed the assy's screws then tilted it about 45 deg so I can get access to the plastic cup at the bottom. Your instruction is spot on for those that want to remove it completely & do the repair on the bench. Kudos for your effort & very nice write up.

Forum Moderator- This should be made as a sticky as it's very well written & contains such a valuable DIY instruction. Thank you.
Can you explain the 45" part? I am going to tackle my doors this fall and would love to avoid having to rip apart the whole bloody thing.
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 06:52 PM
  #41  
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Old Dec 11, 2021 | 09:26 AM
  #42  
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What is the reason for the window to be removed completely?
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Old Mar 29, 2023 | 03:23 PM
  #43  
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Does anyone know the part # or where to find the driver door rubber seal as outlined in Step 22?
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Old Mar 30, 2023 | 10:21 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by vb3347
Does anyone know the part # or where to find the driver door rubber seal as outlined in Step 22?
Door seals:
left A2157200554
right A2157200654

If you have EPC (or can get the dealership parts people to open it) it is on Group 72, 015
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Old Mar 30, 2023 | 11:42 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by mekantor
Door seals:
left A2157200554
right A2157200654

If you have EPC (or can get the dealership parts people to open it) it is on Group 72, 015


Many thanks! Do you happen to also know the part # for the thin rubber seal that goes on the outside of the door? I highlighted it in red.
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Old Mar 30, 2023 | 11:50 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by vb3347


Many thanks! Do you happen to also know the part # for the thin rubber seal that goes on the outside of the door? I highlighted it in red.
I'm not 100% certain, but it looks like it should be these:
A2157280721 - left
A2157280821 - right
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Old Dec 23, 2024 | 03:24 PM
  #47  
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Any chance the other diaphragm is serviceable for the soft close? I know they include it in some kits but it appears to have rivets on top of it? Anyone else have experience with this issue ?
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Old Dec 27, 2024 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Fredrd
Any chance the other diaphragm is serviceable for the soft close? I know they include it in some kits but it appears to have rivets on top of it? Anyone else have experience with this issue ?
I'll be repairing the passenger-side softclose soon and will provide an update once I get in there.
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Old Jan 13, 2025 | 03:39 PM
  #49  
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Any luck?
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Old Jan 13, 2025 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Fredrd
Any luck?
The cluster failed so I've been occupied with that, will probably get back this next week. I did grab a spare mechanism with minor issues from a CL500 at the junk yard, so I have that on the workbench. Depending on the state of mine, I may repair one or the other, or merge them.
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