Anybody looking for lowering module for the 215CL?
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2020 Audi R8 V10, 2016 AMG GTS, 2018 E63S Edition 1, 2018 Porsche GTS Cab, 2012 C63 BS
Anybody looking for lowering module for the 215CL?
Creative Autoworks has mine on sale for cheap. I had it for less than three months. Not a bad deal IMO. Retails for 1700 but selling for 625 shipped. See link below, thanks. I think it will work on any ABC suspension.
Link to Carlsson Module for sale
Link to Carlsson Module for sale
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2003 CL55
Wow that's really unfortunate that you can not ADJUST the ride height for such an expensive piece. Maybe you should try something that is a lot more reasonably priced and will give you full flexibility to lower each corner of the vehicle to whatever height you like.
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The Carlsson does give you the ability to go up to 30mm more than the lowest height. As I mentioned before I want a super aggressive stance.
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2003 CL55
Yes I do have 3 settings as well. In the pic it's at the lowest setting. When raised to the highest setting its just a little higher then the lowest setting when it was stock. Can lower more very easily if I wish. You should really consider what I have to offer. It works great and you can make the car sit at whatever stance you like. You know the link. Don't wanna post it cause it will just get deleted until I become a site sponsor. All that the modules are doing is manipulating the computer with resistors.
I would definitely not sell your 65 cause you can not get it to the right height of your liking. Would work with you to make sure your very happy. I'm currently trying to sell mine to get a S65. If you have any questions send me a PM.
John.
I would definitely not sell your 65 cause you can not get it to the right height of your liking. Would work with you to make sure your very happy. I'm currently trying to sell mine to get a S65. If you have any questions send me a PM.
John.
Last edited by Cutter; 12-25-2006 at 06:13 PM.
#11
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The electronic modules actually offer some other options that manual links do not. For example, disabling the auto ride height lowering at speeds above 65mph.
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2003 CL55
If your worried about the automatic lowering at speeds above 65mph you can simply press the raise button once. I have never had a issue with rubbing. Just can't justify spending that much more money for something that does the same job as the links. The fact of cutting wires really discourages me from the module.
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If your worried about the automatic lowering at speeds above 65mph you can simply press the raise button once. I have never had a issue with rubbing. Just can't justify spending that much more money for something that does the same job as the links. The fact of cutting wires really discourages me from the module.
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If your worried about the automatic lowering at speeds above 65mph you can simply press the raise button once. I have never had a issue with rubbing. Just can't justify spending that much more money for something that does the same job as the links. The fact of cutting wires really discourages me from the module.
The main benefit of not having the car lower at speed is to keep the shocks from blowing out if you compress them enough at freeway speeds.
I have seen cars with the "Washer" or "Link" method more than once blow a shock from hitting a bump or dip at freeway speeds and having one or more of their shocks compress enough past the bump stop to blow them. This is the issue to be most concerned about about the "Washer" or "Link" lowering method and one the needs to be kept in mind when setting the ride height so that there is always 7-10mm of travel for the unknown at speed.
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2003 CL55
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It doesn't matter which way you lower the vehicle, Links or electronic module. You are changing the amount of travel in the Hydraulic strut period. If that concerns you, you should be the 1st to change out the entire system to shorter 1's. Much like regular cars without Airmatic. Could only imagine the cost of that.
I have lowered many vehicles with my fully Adjustable Billet Aluminum Links lower then mine and they have never blown anything.
It doesn't matter which way you lower the vehicle, Links or electronic module. You are changing the amount of travel in the Hydraulic strut period. If that concerns you, you should be the 1st to change out the entire system to shorter 1's. Much like regular cars without Airmatic. Could only imagine the cost of that.
I have lowered many vehicles with my fully Adjustable Billet Aluminum Links lower then mine and they have never blown anything.
Last edited by Cutter; 12-25-2006 at 09:24 PM.
#16
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Awiner
It doesn't matter which way you lower the vehicle, Links or electronic module. You are changing the amount of travel in the Hydraulic strut period. If that concerns you, you should be the 1st to change out the entire system to shorter 1's. Much like regular cars without Airmatic. Could only imagine the cost of that.
It doesn't matter which way you lower the vehicle, Links or electronic module. You are changing the amount of travel in the Hydraulic strut period. If that concerns you, you should be the 1st to change out the entire system to shorter 1's. Much like regular cars without Airmatic. Could only imagine the cost of that.
If you lower (slam) the car all the way down, then hit 65mph, the system will lower another 25mm. If you need travel at these speeds and it is not there guess what ? There will be problems eventually.
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What is the lowest point??
I've seen cars when they sit for a long time and drop down to have the undercarriage almost on the ground. The lowest I have lowered a vehicle was a S55 with the front rim almost to the fender. He drove it for over a year like that with no problems and this guy really drove his car.
I've seen cars when they sit for a long time and drop down to have the undercarriage almost on the ground. The lowest I have lowered a vehicle was a S55 with the front rim almost to the fender. He drove it for over a year like that with no problems and this guy really drove his car.