Dyno-ed the CL today

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Jun 18, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #1  
So I would of really been thumping my chest today, but hell if could figure why my car was jumping gears. We had her in dyno mode, manual doing pulls in 3rd(btw is 3rd 1:1?) and every time car got to about 5300 rpm, boom 4th gear. Well given the circumstances, heat soak, and 44% relative humidity I managed 524/540... I will have the PDF up tomorrow
Btw does the tranny have torque limiter?
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Jun 19, 2011 | 02:03 AM
  #2  
what a pain in the *** to dyno these things. it took me 3 diff shops and the 4th had to order a opt p/u for the crank. dyno mode/manual sounds right. not sure why its shifting at 5300. mine with a stg 1 ecu tune did 555.
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Jun 19, 2011 | 02:31 AM
  #3  
what type of dyno is it and what temperature condition were you at?
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Jun 19, 2011 | 09:46 AM
  #4  
4th gear is 1:1. The link below shows all the gears towards the bottom of the page. The TCU does have torque limits, which results in a drop in boost at shifts. Having the TCU reprogramed raises those limits which allows for less loss, and quicker shifts. Speedriven could give a much better explanation.
http://www.vehix.com/car-reviews/200...specifications
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Jun 19, 2011 | 09:36 PM
  #5  
Ty, yes I tried to reach macrin Saturday but got vm. My flash is speedrivens. Dynomat dyno, we had boost hooked up too, the curves were weird. It would hold 15-16 psi, then at 5300 rpm, just before it jumped gear, the boost would spike to 20psi. Temp condition, ambient? 85 degrees, but engine was hot, IC were hot to touch.
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Jun 20, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #6  
It makes sense... If under 5300 rpms the torque is still being recognized as too high for the tranny by the TCU then the car won't build boost, then as the torque drops off with the higher rpms the TCU allows the boost to build which would be why you saw the spike to 20 psi. It would be cool to see a dyno graph with the torque and boost for both with& without the TCU flash to see just how much boost is truly being lost and at what rpm.
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Jun 20, 2011 | 09:06 PM
  #7  
Spoke with marcin, 2 things he suggested, a dyno operator who hasn't dyno'ed an MB( my guy hadn't) has to ne careful when WOT not touch kick down switch, which would explain the quick downshift, back to 3rd...2nd suggestion was to rolling start at 2800-3k rpm then WOT, we were starting out 2k...this was tricking the TCU, and causing the upshift, the 600 rpm I left on table was another 50hp and 80+ tq
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Jun 21, 2011 | 05:05 AM
  #8  
i cant go full throttle on mine till about 4k rpm. its tricky to try to go full throttle without putting the pedal to the floor
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Jun 21, 2011 | 07:26 PM
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Never had a problem on the dyno with s55/600/65s sl55/600/65s or my cl65. The E's are easy in dyno mode in manual gears you can mash it even threw the kickdown switch and it will hold gear selected. ON the sl's s and cl's you have to get in 4th roll up to around 2kish and just roll on quickly to the kick down button without depressing it. If you watch data logger or star you will see the throttle is 100% and the kickdown is a true kick down switch so dont put any pressure find the sweet spot where you know your at the button and dont lean on it!! Sound a little tuff practice in manual mode on the street and you will get the hang of it really fast and see what im talking about also dyno the car in 4th ive tried with my car and a few other 65's in 3rd and it spun the wheels at max boost on the dyno in every one that was tuned!!
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Jun 21, 2011 | 09:55 PM
  #10  
Ty for the info, good suggestions
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Jun 21, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #11  
Also let me know what your dyno numbers are. Had Jerry tune mine STOCK car air filters and all was able to reap 600rwhp and 860rwtq! Need to get the TCU flashed as on the dyno you could see it was hitting the limiter early on in the pull and dropped off you should hopefully be right around my numbers.
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Jun 26, 2011 | 08:34 AM
  #12  
Hey have you had any luck getting on the dyno again?
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