insulating I/C hose
Going to all the trouble of adding a larger heat exchanger is great but the hoses pass in such hot areas by the time it get to the top of the engine it must gain a lot of heat back. I am trying to come up with a insulated hose to use. Using the factory path looks to be problematic. I am wondering if there is an industrial hose to use ? I'll keep tinkering ...
Last edited by driveability; Jul 25, 2012 at 08:51 PM.
Besides if you are at stock or close to stock hp levels the stock ic setup works well. Mine keeps about 20 degrees above ambient at normal driving- how much better do you need it to be?
I would not bother.
Besides if you are at stock or close to stock hp levels the stock ic setup works well. Mine keeps about 20 degrees above ambient at normal driving- how much better do you need it to be?
I would not bother.


Last edited by driveability; Jul 26, 2012 at 11:28 PM.
Going to all the trouble of adding a larger heat exchanger is great but the hoses pass in such hot areas by the time it get to the top of the engine it must gain a lot of heat back. I am trying to come up with a insulated hose to use. Using the factory path looks to be problematic. I am wondering if there is an industrial hose to use ? I'll keep tinkering ...



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In the second picture you can see the 90 degree elbow.
In the third picture you can see the plug it will come out and connect to the factory manifold to the heat exchanger. Simple enough.
In the forth picture you can see the bracket I made holding down the new I/C hose.



. The aluminum is soft and it doesn't take much to make this happen. Externally it looked fine as well. Its real easy to move the aluminum back, I used a short fat punch with the right graduated taper.

The first picture shows the IC hose passing through the soft firewall. Second picture shows the IC hose moving down into the fender well and in to the area of the pump. This wil isolate the hoses from engine heat.

Last edited by driveability; Aug 4, 2012 at 06:28 PM.
I'd hate to be the first to screw up. Up-date,
I have decided to go the Killer Chiller way. Sure I still need to insulate my IC lines and the ones pictured above going through the fender wells are in place and working well. Since the Ebay K,C went south I am going to build my own chiller system. My thoughts are to get an evaporator and build up a set of aluminum tubing to run through the evaporator. I'll have the hole thing welded together to form a water tight box/unit.Tyeing it in to the factory system. I need to do some R&D (LOL) mocking up units to see how to suck out the cold / heat the best. Maybe a bunch of small lines tied into the coolant lines so I can wrap them around the evaporator in such a way as to get more surface contact. I just don't know yet.
Besides if you are at stock or close to stock hp levels the stock ic setup works well. Mine keeps about 20 degrees above ambient at normal driving- how much better do you need it to be?
I think in general insulation is a good idea, as it adds thermal resistance between the engine compartment and the IC water. So other things being equal, it will reduce the flow of heat betwen them.
But that doesn't mean it will keep the heat in, as the IC doesn't lose heat into the engine compartment - it can only be the other way round. The IC typically runs at around 100F, while everything else under the hood is around 200F.
Heat is lost from the IC water in the IC heat exchanger, and the less heat is added from the pipe runs, the better. That's my reasoning.
Nick








