Going to all the trouble of adding a larger heat exchanger is great but the hoses pass in such hot areas by the time it get to the top of the engine it must gain a lot of heat back. I am trying to come up with a insulated hose to use. Using the factory path looks to be problematic. I am wondering if there is an industrial hose to use ? I'll keep tinkering ...
Insulating will amplify the heat soak problem. Ie keep heat out, but once you get stuck in traffic it will keep the heat in.
Besides if you are at stock or close to stock hp levels the stock ic setup works well. Mine keeps about 20 degrees above ambient at normal driving- how much better do you need it to be?
I would not bother.
Besides if you are at stock or close to stock hp levels the stock ic setup works well. Mine keeps about 20 degrees above ambient at normal driving- how much better do you need it to be?
I would not bother.
Quote:
Besides if you are at stock or close to stock hp levels the stock ic setup works well. Mine keeps about 20 degrees above ambient at normal driving- how much better do you need it to be?
I would not bother.
I have some ideas insulate the hose with something like this and blow outside air through the outer tube. Originally Posted by alx
Insulating will amplify the heat soak problem. Ie keep heat out, but once you get stuck in traffic it will keep the heat in. Besides if you are at stock or close to stock hp levels the stock ic setup works well. Mine keeps about 20 degrees above ambient at normal driving- how much better do you need it to be?
I would not bother.



Super Member
Quote:
Going to all the trouble of adding a larger heat exchanger is great but the hoses pass in such hot areas by the time it get to the top of the engine it must gain a lot of heat back. I am trying to come up with a insulated hose to use. Using the factory path looks to be problematic. I am wondering if there is an industrial hose to use ? I'll keep tinkering ...
You are on the right track, some of the original hot roding V12TT guys on this site reran the lines along the fire wall. If you look at some of the Brabus V12TT engine photos closely you can see that they did the same.Originally Posted by driveability
Going to all the trouble of adding a larger heat exchanger is great but the hoses pass in such hot areas by the time it get to the top of the engine it must gain a lot of heat back. I am trying to come up with a insulated hose to use. Using the factory path looks to be problematic. I am wondering if there is an industrial hose to use ? I'll keep tinkering ...
I understand this is reaching a bit but I have way too much time on my hands. Here I have my inter coolers and a spare air pump along with assorted nozzles. The pump puts out a ton of air at good pressure along with being UN-heated by the electric motor. My thinking is obvious, push cooler air under the coolers to shed heat. The system is easy to install and I would like to find some larger nozzles & use a larger diameter transfer tube, but I am sure it will remove heat, how much ? well that's easy enough to find out. I am also going to run my factory transfer cooler hoses along the top side of the engine instead of under the coolers and air filter housings. Yes I have far too much time on my hands !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes I need a proper fuse not a hard wired as above 







Super Member
Will you be doing ditching the restrictive stock air boxes and do a cold air intake of any sort ?
I would think this would be a bigger gain.
.
I would think this would be a bigger gain.
.
I think that creating undercarriage air dams and redirecting cold air through heat extractors on the hood will be the most beneficial cheap mod for reducing intercooler heat.
I have to agree the air intake systems are a good way to go. As I said too much time to burn. 

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ExploreI re-routed my inter-cooler hose from under the heat exchanger & air cleaner to here. This is the inlet side. Should keep the cool in a bit more.


Super Member
Quote:
More details please, as is how about a DIY guide ? Originally Posted by driveability
I re-routed my inter-cooler hose from under the heat exchanger & air cleaner to here. This is the inlet side. Should keep the cool in a bit more. .
In the first picture you can see the 3/4 hose passing through the soft firewall.
In the second picture you can see the 90 degree elbow.
In the third picture you can see the plug it will come out and connect to the factory manifold to the heat exchanger. Simple enough.
In the forth picture you can see the bracket I made holding down the new I/C hose.




In the second picture you can see the 90 degree elbow.
In the third picture you can see the plug it will come out and connect to the factory manifold to the heat exchanger. Simple enough.
In the forth picture you can see the bracket I made holding down the new I/C hose.




I wanted to give you guys a heads up here. Before I took the car apart I would see higher ( 5 to 8 degrees ) temps on this the passenger side heat exchanger. When I took it apart I found this
. The aluminum is soft and it doesn't take much to make this happen. Externally it looked fine as well. Its real easy to move the aluminum back, I used a short fat punch with the right graduated taper.

. The aluminum is soft and it doesn't take much to make this happen. Externally it looked fine as well. Its real easy to move the aluminum back, I used a short fat punch with the right graduated taper. 

The first picture shows the IC hose passing through the soft firewall. Second picture shows the IC hose moving down into the fender well and in to the area of the pump. This wil isolate the hoses from engine heat.


I would like to add hood scoops but as we all know they might look ridicules.
I'd hate to be the first to screw up.
Up-date,
I have decided to go the Killer Chiller way. Sure I still need to insulate my IC lines and the ones pictured above going through the fender wells are in place and working well. Since the Ebay K,C went south I am going to build my own chiller system. My thoughts are to get an evaporator and build up a set of aluminum tubing to run through the evaporator. I'll have the hole thing welded together to form a water tight box/unit.Tyeing it in to the factory system. I need to do some R&D (LOL) mocking up units to see how to suck out the cold / heat the best. Maybe a bunch of small lines tied into the coolant lines so I can wrap them around the evaporator in such a way as to get more surface contact. I just don't know yet.
I'd hate to be the first to screw up. Up-date,
I have decided to go the Killer Chiller way. Sure I still need to insulate my IC lines and the ones pictured above going through the fender wells are in place and working well. Since the Ebay K,C went south I am going to build my own chiller system. My thoughts are to get an evaporator and build up a set of aluminum tubing to run through the evaporator. I'll have the hole thing welded together to form a water tight box/unit.Tyeing it in to the factory system. I need to do some R&D (LOL) mocking up units to see how to suck out the cold / heat the best. Maybe a bunch of small lines tied into the coolant lines so I can wrap them around the evaporator in such a way as to get more surface contact. I just don't know yet.
Quote:
Besides if you are at stock or close to stock hp levels the stock ic setup works well. Mine keeps about 20 degrees above ambient at normal driving- how much better do you need it to be?
This subject has me intrigued. It hard to judge how much heat the IC lines pick up, but they DO run right past the exhausts and turbos....Originally Posted by alx
Insulating will amplify the heat soak problem. Ie keep heat out, but once you get stuck in traffic it will keep the heat in. Besides if you are at stock or close to stock hp levels the stock ic setup works well. Mine keeps about 20 degrees above ambient at normal driving- how much better do you need it to be?
I think in general insulation is a good idea, as it adds thermal resistance between the engine compartment and the IC water. So other things being equal, it will reduce the flow of heat betwen them.
But that doesn't mean it will keep the heat in, as the IC doesn't lose heat into the engine compartment - it can only be the other way round. The IC typically runs at around 100F, while everything else under the hood is around 200F.
Heat is lost from the IC water in the IC heat exchanger, and the less heat is added from the pipe runs, the better. That's my reasoning.
Nick




